Patcon

Thanks for all the info, I did not realize all these posts were added. Thanks Tony for the links. I had decided before I saw these post to add some 3/4" copper line between my first coalescing dryer and the air compressor. I also ordered a Sharpe DryAire 6760 to hook up on the other side of the shop and let it supply my fresh air and my paint gun. http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Dryaire+Desiccant+System I am planning on getting an SAS fresh air system. I believe I will be good to go from there. Comments are welcome... Thanks, Charles

Thanks for the quick reply Zak Charles

Thanks Arne, I still have aluminum drums, I will look for the access hole in the drum. Thanks, Charles

I rebuilt the rear brakes on one of my early Z's. I wanted to run the adjusters out to limit pedal travel but I don't seem to have the holes on the inside of the backer plate to advance the adjuster with a screwdriver. Has anyone else run into this problem? Is there a good solution or way to ajust the brakes out. I manually activated the e brake maybe 100 times or so, but I only heard one side clicking. Thanks, Charles

Zak, How did your brazing repairs hold up? I just got my car back from the sand blaster and there are some brazed repairs. I don't know whether to remove them or just epoxy prime over them. Charles

I finally got around to going to the Lowes hardawre aisle. They do carry the swaging tool ($20 or so). It looks like a set of large bolt cutters. It is interesting our Home Depot (where I shop more often) carries ferrules and stops does not have the swaging tool. FWIW Charles

Mike, Ya gotta love Texans. I am married to one and the in-laws come into town tomorrow. Good people and very independant... Thanks for the offer I have seen that tool in another thread I believe. I may need to borrow it when I get a little further along. Thanks, Charles

That would be great Peter Charles

Thanks, Arne Were the prices reasonable? Is there a download for the factory microfiche so I can go in with part numbers? Thanks, Charles

I have been doing some shopping around. I want to replace all of the stock bushings in the 240Z that is on the rotisserie. It seems that MSA doesn't have a whole lot in regards to stock bushings, and they probably are not the most competitive on price. Rock auto also doesn't seem to have a whole lot. Black dragon is one option (quality?), are there any better options? It also seems that no one sells a bushing package, only urethane. I am taking this car back mostly stock and don't need the stiffer bushings. Any ideas on where to get the best bushings? I know several board members have had to pull these sets togethor, can you point me in the right direction? Thanks, Charles

I would be interested. Taillight strip, buckles, etc. for early 240z Charles

That would probably work good if I drove old Fords. Then I would be called an enthusiasts:D Charles

It is a crying shame, but I am just too tall. I went and looked at a very nice 1968 roadster in Eden, NC the other day. Took it for a test drive, but the car is just too small for me. My head was above the roll bar and the top would probably be too low for me, and my knees are all folded up. I really like the old roadsters but I really don’t fit comfortably. If any one is interested the car is nice with 2.0L, Mikuni’s, large oil pan, stage II cam, 5 point harnesses, crane ign, good paint, well taken care of. He has owned it since like 77'. I put a link to the ebay ad I found it by. If you have trouble getting in touch with the owner PM me and I will get you in touch. He was very nice and Keith Hege met with me to look at the car also. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_rdcZ1QQitemZ180658299371QQruZhttpQ3aQ2fQ2fshopQ2eebayQ2ecomQ3a80Q2fiQ2ehtmlQ3fQ5ffromQ3dR40Q26Q5ftrksidQ3dp5197Q2em570Q2el1313Q26Q5fnkwQ3d180658299371Q26Q5fsacatQ3dSeeQ2dAllQ2dCategoriesQ26Q5ffviQ3d1 Oh well I guess I will have to make one of my rustier Z's into a roadster Charles

What do you mean when you say frame? 280z's are unibody cars and there is no seperate frame. The suspension,engine, etc is all hung off of the body. Can you be more specific? Charles

Tim, What kind of seats are those on page 7 of your album? Wrapped in plastic, black with side bolsters, are they for your Scarab? Also the rear fender flares, are they a Scarab stock item or something that got added later? They have the best transitions from the qtr to the flare that I have seen yet. Thanks, Charles

Blue, Did you get it fixed yet? Charles

Nigel, Are you currently molding the interior lens? Will you make the exterior lens in another mold and combine the 2 pieces? How would you mold a 240z taillight where the colors all meet in nice straight lines? Do you mold 2 of the 3 pieces and then put the 2 completed pieces in the last mold and let the third part bond to the first 2 while in the pressure pot? Charles

Will setting the SU's at an angle effect the operation of the float chambers or the float level??? Charles

I have a 60 gal Ingersol Rand 5 hp compressor, when it runs a lot I have some serious water in the lines. I have a Jet coalescing filter in the main line (3/4") about 20' from the air compressor. I am looking into solutions to dry the whole system and to dry the air specifically for painting one of my cars that is coming back from the media blaster. I could use any help or suggestions for what others have done and the results. It can be very humid here in the south and with high temperatures making dry air can be a challenge. Thanks, Charles

What did you use for resin? How did you go about making molds? How did you locate the correct colors? Details please, very interesting. I had considered a similar effort to make me a set of JDM 240z taillights. Thanks, Charles

I assume space is the problem and you want to remove the spacers for better clearance? I am pretty sure Travel n Man is right and they are to reduce heat transfer. Bruce Palmer is probably the resident expert on this. Charles

Blue, If your up for that just cut a section out for both bolts (maybe 2"x5" for each side), plasma cutter if you have it or die drinder, might need a 90 degree die grinder to get access. Get the bolts out the back side once it's out, then make backer plates for both areas. Put some holes in the bolt plates and around the perimeter of the hole (5/16" dia). Plug weld the backer plates into the boxes first, make holes for the suspension boltsa to pass into, then weld the plates with the bolts in against the backer plates. Weld all the joints solid and fill all the holes. Stronger than the orignal. You will have to take it easy with the heat. Wait a while between welds or cool with air or things will "oil can" on you. Even the thicker metal on our cars is not very thick and warps easily. Spent all day today fabbing up a new battery tray area, today. Slow work but stronger in the end. I think I would prefer this method over the tap and die work if the bolts won't drill. If you want, a die grinder and some 2" Roloc discs and the welds can be worked back down smooth. Will look like brand new... Charles

OK :mad:, that looks like fun not! It's too bad the car is not on a rotisserie but that does make more sense now that I see it. I agree they will have to be drilled out. Which could be a real chore from under the car on your back. I would also try not drill the whole bolt at once but step up. If it gets off center some times the tap will pull out the partial thread. The bolts are probably pretty hard from the factory, but the quenching may have worked against you. I don't think you have an easy fix Charles

Blue, Which bolts are we talking about? Are we talking about the two long studs that hang down for the mustache bar or some other bolts. I can't think of any other bolts in the rear supsension that can't be removed and replaced. The two mustache bolts that hang through the floor I thought were removeable from up top, but I am not sure. I probably wouldn't try to weld them back if I didn't half to. I weld some and I would be hard pressed to trust welded bolts in the suspension. Charles

Let's start with budget. How fast do you want to spend? From all my research stroker is going to cost more per HP, turbo is easier horse power to make. I agree with Blue ITB's would be fun but they are not terribly cheap either. So what is your budget for this build, $1000, $2000, $3000, $4000, $5000 or more? What are you thinking? Charles