Patcon

Some products have different speed reducers based on the temperature. I don't know exactly how that is done with epoxy. Nason's epoxy has no provision on the P-sheet for slowing it down and there is not another catalyst listed. I guess smaller batches...

That's a nice straight looking splash pan! They are usually beaten up or rusted out.

All of these paints are heat sensitive. Especially the epoxy paints. If it's warm in your booth they will set up faster. Also these paints can be sensitive to tip size. The P-sheets will have the recommended tip size which can greatly influence feed issues. Also are your straining all of your paint into the cup?

I could also do that with the edge of the wheel arch where it's too wide. Good idea! Thanks Chris! Where the air dam curves around the front at the turn signals, did you put the air dam on the inside or the outside of the sugar scoop? I have it on the inside currently...

Worked on getting panel gaps right on the front panels some today. I think I got the hood pretty close. It sits just forward of the head light buckets, but they are pretty close. I also re-arched the hood using Jeff's method. It works good but be careful. It is easy to over arch the hood! The cowl panel was sitting a little high compared to the fenders. I had crimped it when adjusting it. So out came the body saw and I added a slit. Got it flush and welded it back. As a word of caution it ended up too low after it cooled. I should have held it up just a hair to make it better when it cooled. I dollied it some and got it back to where it needed to be. I did both sides this way. Then I moved around to the drivers door. The car had clipped something before I got it on the door and creased it right through the wheel arch. So I patched it in with a tabco panel a number of years ago. Well when I got the door on the car the tabco panel doesn't arch the same way the door does. So out comes the cut off tool I started filling this back in when I stopped for today Also I hung the new air dam on the front. It's a Xenon urethane dam I have had for a while. I don't like the way it meets the front fenders. Has anyone else had this issue? How did you deal with it?

I came up with this. I believe there are a couple of layers of metal in the frame rail there. So a jack stand, a section of pipe, some chain and some studs welds and you get this Add a big hammer It worked pretty well but I will still dress them up a little bit with a thin layer of fiberglass

It was interesting that the Por15 and the Eastwood were near the bottom. I would have liked to have seen them use the Eastwood internal frame coating to get a point of reference on that against the other internal coatings

The piece I am remembering was a piece of flat metal 3/16's or so.Maybe 2" long, had a hole on each end. One hole gets mounted to the ebrake cable bracket that you have shown. The other hole fits into the maxima caliper and gets a pin in it too.

Somebody did. Does anyone remember who did? It was a little metal plate that joined the ebrake cable with the caliper using clevis pins

Some times you just have to punt. I think I can make this one work if I elongate the holes some in the hood. This is an aftermarket hood I bought 25 years ago after I t-boned a post. It's close to working now. I will probably tinker with it some today

Some on ebay but they can get expensive

Just be sure there is enough metal there to take the re-threading. These are fine thread bolts, which implies they have a lot of load on them

That is probably where the seal rides. They make seal saver sleeves. You can probably find one that would fit. That provides a new surface for the seal with no groove

That's split pretty good. If you can afford to do it, I would Where is the groove?

Pretty fall color

I was able to locate 4 cowl screws in my bolt boxes. What is the correct finish. Yellow zinc or clear? Also, does anybody have one of these inspection door shims. I have one on the car. I really need another or I could probably bent the bracket...

On another note, when removing the car from the rotisserie I dropped it about six inches onto the jack stands and dented the frame rails. Two steps forward ; one back

Ok. So I've had some time to work on the car this weekend. I started fitting the fender and assorted front end parts I ran into a problem with the fenders and cowl. the gaps weren't even and didn't run straight. So I added onto the edge of one side of the cowl and on the fenders I cut a slot in and made the panel flush with the cowl and welded it all back up A little smear of fiberglass and some blocking and it aught to be good This is the most assembled the car has been in NINE years! The hood needs some more work and I will have to slot it a little bit to bring it forward some more. I will also have to re-arch it. I plan on using Jeff's method @Home Built by Jeff

Richard, I thought you posted a picture of a link that goes between the maxima caliper and the stock E brake, but I couldn't find it. Was that you? Thanks, Charles I

@Chickenman

This is a set of strut to knuckle bolts. Bolts appear to be 12mm dia and the shorter bolt is 30mm on the shank. The longer bolt is 35mm on the shank and goes in the front hole of the strut. 1.25 pitch

Is the stopping power noticeably improved? How is the pedal travel? Is there a tangible improvement or barely perceptible?

Swapping injectors around is a good diagnostic tool, but Zed Head's suggestion to just do a flow test with them on the rail might be a better way to do it

It's good to know they are irrelevant, though.

I believe I have some of those bolts sitting on the bench. I can check them after church