jfa.series1

You planning to wreck the rental??? Be sure to sign up for the optional insurance!

Let me try to add a bit of meat to the bones. For those members familiar with some of the date codes used by Nissan and it suppliers, see if any of this contributes. This unit has the code 341M stamped at the end of the closed foot; another case I'm working on has 2Y1M stamped at the end. I have a case with both ends closed that has a stamp 583M; two other cases this style have no stamped codes. All of the cases have the Niles stamp on one foot. Ideas??? Edit: additional info - only the two cases with the open foot have the 12V 8W stamp.

To the best of my knowledge the 240's, possibly 260's. All the later cars I've seen had closed slots on both sides, do not have the 12V 8W stamp. Still - this might be a situation of whatever was in the parts bin as a car came down the line. This case is from a 240, matches the original unit on my car.

Restored inspection light with the open slot on one mounting foot and 12V 8W stamp on the top of the case. Newly replated (yellow zinc) case and switch nut / washer. No dings or scratches on the case. New lens and rubber gasket from 240ZRubberParts, new grommet for wiring port. Switch disassembled, cleaned, lubed with dielectric grease. Includes buyer's choice of replated sheet metal screws (suitable for 240Z fender mount) or hex bolts for other vehicles. $85 includes shipping within CONUS, payment via PayPal.

@JLPurcell

From a '73, this valve is a bit different. When polished with the wire wheel, the metal popped out with a natural pale gold color - this is not plating. The replated bracket and bolts are included. $25 includes shipping within CONUS. Payment via Paypal.

Same as the item I refurbished and recently sold. The current price is not bad but I suspect shipping to the US will be a bit costly.

Jerry - thanks for posting the link. I sent to a local buddy (also a Jerry) who is restoring his one-owner '72. Jim

Wrapped up a small resto effort today on a rescue part with a successful electrical test. New lens on order from S. Nix.

And maybe not. The parts came from a 11/74 build date 280Z which I think qualifies it as a '75 model. The P/N's and effective dates I supplied in post #3 came from carpartsmanual.com. If you can supply better P/N info, please do so.

PM sent.

Sold!

Sold!

Jerry - could not get out for this today but might be able to do something tomorrow afternoon if that's any help. PM me if so. Jim

I guess that makes you the Brake Master Master!

I've not owned a 280 so I can't comment for sure on the FI issue. But. here's a clarification on the P/N that I think explains it: 62590-E4101 Right side all S30's 62591-E4101 Left side 240Z, 260Z (I was incorrect on my original post regarding the 260Z). 62591-E4500 Left side 280Z from 7409 to 7607. This would make it effective on '75 and '76 models only. No pic of the car I pulled these from, but it was a '75. Thanks for raising the question, I'll update my original post. Jim

Its said the devil is in the details and if you're working on a stock or concours restoration, this is one of those pesky details. The tiny screws that secure the engine bay ID plate to the inner fender are often lost and replaced with incorrect screws or even worse - pop-rivets. Here's a full set of OE screws, fresh from re-plating and looking for a project car home. $8 shipped within CONUS, payment via PayPal.

This is a L/R set of fresh air ducts for a '75 or '76 280Z. These are in excellent condition - no cracks or other damage, the bellows are flexible. Installation screws included. The right side unit fits all S30's but the throat on the left side is larger and will not fit a 240Z or 260Z. Sold only as a set, $75 includes shipping within CONUS, payment via PayPal.

I appreciate the comment but this is exactly how they came off the car - a '73. They are different than on my car - also narrow ones as you mention. Looks like Nissan changed them with later models, clearly these are a lot beefier. It is a snug process to install/remove them but rotating the column opens up the access. Edit: I went back to the pic of the one I sold in Dec. from a 12/71 car. That one had the narrow nuts.

Rescued and refurbished, a L/R set of 240Z windshield washer nozzles. Fresh replating, includes mounting screws. $40 includes shipping within CONUS, payment via PayPal.

I found another pony! Here's another S30 rubber steering coupler in great shape - flexible and lively, no cracks or deterioration. Included with the coupler are all associated hardware pieces, all freshly replated. $50 includes shipping within CONUS, payment via PayPal.

We've covered the insurance topic in prior posts but its always important to keep in mind that "stated value" and "agreed upon value" can always be challenged by an adjustor should your car or other classic vehicle get damaged and potentially totaled. No matter what you think the vehicle is worth and what value you were paying for in premiums, its the adjustor's valuation that will decide the payout. That's not the case with "guaranteed value" - this type policy will pay up to the full face amount if the vehicle is totaled, no questions asked and no adjustor challenges. This is a good example of you get what you pay for!

I did both on the front, as 26th-Z has suggested. Truck bed liner went on the front as a stone chip protective layer - except for the shock tower as I did not want to encourage any moisture retention. The tower was first coated with POR-15, then brush painted in body color, The rest of the area was sprayed in body color.

You and me be the junkyard dawgs! I've been working some S30's and S130's at a local yard. Several Z31's there also but they're a bit beyond my knowledge set as to what is good to pick and refurbish.

Outstanding work Jeff. Thanks for your diligence and innovation. Looking forward to seeing you in Austin. Jim