jfa.series1

I'm sticking this one in just for fun, not because anyone would or could buy one. This is the 1st generation BRE "Spook", used only in the 1970 competition season. It was already installed by the dealer when I bought the car. Its been suggested by a knowledgeable source it may be the last one in existence. This design was replaced by the version in post #30.

For sale: uber-rare set of NOS 240Z steering rack bushings, possibly the last set available at a U.S. Nissan dealer (how did he know that?). 5444-E4101 right side, 5445-E4101 left side. The highly collectable bulk-pack parts bags are included at no extra cost. The set is $70 including shipping within CONUS. Payment via Paypal.

Welcome to the somewhat perverted (in a good way) world of the truly obsessed. That's a good looking ride - with any luck the RCMP is scarce enough for you to really stretch it out on occasion. And... the pic from Guy proves that we all appreciate curvy shapes in many forms.

Yeah, always fun to get a short ride down memory lane and you know all about Safari Gold! This is the car just before the teardown. You can see it is noticeably lower by looking at the lack of opening at the top of the wheel arches and the tires. I could barely get fingers into the gaps. Steel wheels painted silver made do for my "alloys" back in my poor days. The Mulholland springs eventually went to one of our forum members up north for the price of shipping.

Guy - you certainly have a bit of an evil streak in you. The seller's description conflicts with the pics when he states they are for a 240. The last pic shows the Mulholland colors and dot codes - black springs with blue and white dots as shown are for a 260. The 240 springs merely had black and grey spring colors, no dots. Jim

Similar story here - Eibach Progressive's and Tokico HP's on the car. Having Interpart Mulholland springs and shocks on the car for so many years, I really became accustomed to the lowered ride height and ride quality. When I redid the car, I swapped everything out including poly bushings all around - a brutally harsh and noisy ride was the result! The poly bushings are gone, replaced with OE and OEM rubber, the ride is now just harshly firm. It's absolutely great on a good road surface but inner city streets are seldom that quality. My biggest complaint is that shocks have now become an active part of the suspension and I suspect that aftermarket spring rates do not take that into account. The result is a ride height approaching stock. Rather than experiment with cutting coils from the Eibach's, my plan is to pull the springs from the '73 I've been stripping at the salvage yard and swap them out after cutting off a coil. I've got 205/55 X 16 tires to retain the OE 25" tire diameter.

Mine are installed like the second pic and they looked like that when I pulled the car apart for resto. The normal install for the hoses would be to push them thru from the engine bay. If the taper were on the engine side, it would have a tendency to fold under as the hose passes thru.

Sold!

Thanks for the interest. Both items have been pulled from the car and will be available after I get them refurbished. The single duct plus a full set from a '75 in the yard will just need a good cleaning, will be available soon. The service light will wait on getting enough parts together for a plating run. All parts will get posted to the forum as they become ready.

You can always PM me with what they would be worth to you! Make it worth my while to get them off.

This one is at a local crushing and salvage operation. I've already made a deal with the manager that if he comes across a reasonably "whole" 240/260 at auction or other source, I'm looking to buy it as a parts car.

It always helps to get additional eyes on a yard find - thanks for all the comments. I'm not finished with this one and appreciate the tips. The center valance is toast from the wreck, left valance and grill might be OK, horns - check, glass is bulky and hard to store and ship, drums may be damaged but will look again, locks - check, rack - check, brake items - check, buckets tough to get to the bolts without a jack to get wheel well clearance, fender bolts - check. Bart - I probably won't be around in 20 years! BTW - is there any demand for stock brake calipers?

Spent several hours picking the bones of this sad '73 today - 10/72, VIN 129684. Its been in the yard for several years but still had some bits worth refurbishing and eventually offering to our community. Recounting my recent line "...there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere", I may even have come across a couple of unicorns. Time will tell. A couple of 280's and a bunch of ZX's at this yard - more candy than I could eat today. More pickings yet to come.

Thanks, I didn't know of the change. I guess the set I gave away 2 years ago had a bit of value.

New ones still available at Rockauto - $16.30 per set, 4 sets remaining. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=946404&cc=1209158&jsn=368 A quick Google search show them available at many sites. Look for NGK 8105 - most at priced about $25

Sold.

It would be interesting to see the response to "I have the money in hand and located nearby, need to see and drive the car".

New aftermarket turn signal lenses and gaskets for 240Z & 260Z, sold only as a full set. These will run you $76 + shipping at one major source, $127 + shipping at another. My economical price is $65, includes shipping within CONUS. One set available.

The cars were painted one color everywhere. The body color paint code is what is used for the underside.

What a great innovation. I've been lucky with the big honkin' pipe wrench so far but this is all too easy for the next time.

Glad to hear it was this simple of a solution (and fix). Good for you! Now you have to 'fess up - where in Texas are you? Quite a few members here from Texas and we're always looking to make a new acquaintance.

The T/C rod is what establishes the forward/rearward positioning of the wheel - think of it as the non-adjustable castor setting. If the tire is now hitting the valance, it has moved forward. This suggests the T/C rod is not properly seated where it bolts to the frame. Its not the struts or springs. Even if you removed the T/C rod from the control arm, the bolts that attach the T/C rod are a slip fit so its not likely the problem is at that point.

Here's the version I had heard: A man was walking by the blacksmith's shop and saw a boy madly digging into a large pile of horse manure, flinging it everywhere. He called out to the boy "Young man, why are you digging in that pile of manure?". The boy stopped and replied "Mister, with that much horse $^!# in one place, there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere!".

"...there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere!"

Presumably so - vapors from the fuel tank and oil pan are routed to the back of the carbs air filter housing to get pulled into the engine for burning. This little valve is mounted just under the ballast resistor.