beermanpete

And don't for the fuel cap. Its gasket might be bad.

Yes, I remember ASCII art. Showing my age, tsk, tsk. HTML ignores extra spaces and extra line feeds. The code is text and will look correct in the editor but the web browser ignores the extra spaces. The HTML code for a space is " & n b s p ; " (without the spaces, more HTML issues just to explain the first one). If I have it right your ASCII art should look like this: + + + + + + + + + + + + + ++++++++ <=== Put my head here. As for your battery, it will be fine. It is possible you caused some damage that will lead to shorter life but it won't die in a day or two unless it was already half in the bag. Forget about it and enjoy your car.

There is an adjustment for the free play. Have you tried to adjust it? A new or properly rebuilt unit should come properly adjusted and will therefor remove the free play as long as the free play is due to the rack and not other problems.

Are you lifting the vacuum piston by hand? If so, it will run poorly when you do this. You are essintially making it run on 3 cylinders. The idea is to see if the engine RPM drops the same amount for each carb. This is a way to check the idle mixture balance front to rear. Your car has a big cam so the idle is not as good as a stock cam. It might not support idling on 3 cylinders well enough to allow this test.

The factory drums are aluminum with a cast iron insert for the brake surface. The nominal diameter is 9 inces. The maximum service diameter is 9.055 inces. The drum in your photo is not an original for a 240Z. If it is 10 inches then it is not even a cheap replacement for a 240Z. The weight will affect handling but on a casually driven street car it is not likley to be a serious problem.

It sounds like your tired batterty is the problem. Since the lights get brighter when you rev the motor we know the alternator is working. At idle the alternator does not have enough outpout to keep up with the headlights (normal). The battery voltage will begin to fall due to the slight discharge. After a while the lights will dim due to the lower voltage. When you rev the engine the alternator output increases, raising the voltage and the lights get brighter. How long are you letting the engine idle? If it is only a few minutes while waiting at a traffic light you need a battery.

This is normal. You have a lot of grease, oil, and other chemicals on the exhaust manifold. The heat will burn it off the first time you run the enigne. Put the car outside and let it run with the hood open for little while. It will stop after about 5 or 10 minutes.

Follow the factory srvice manual instructions. The FSM should take precedent over other sources unless you have absolute faith in the source. Also, ask the engeine rebuilder about this. Perhaps they have a reason/expalanation for the descrepancy. If not, they should correct the problem.

The brake warning light indicates low pressure on 1 of the 2 circuits. The bleeders should be at the top of the calipers. You might have the right and left calipers reveresed. This will not allow you to get all the air out. I suggest swapping the calipers side to side, rebleed, and test again.

I recently went through this procedure on my car. There are 2 free plays to check. There is free play between the pedal and the master vac, and free play between the master vac and the master cylinder. You should be able to detect both. Each is adjusted separately. Here is the factory service manual for the '72 brakes. BR Brake System.pdf The brake pedal free play is not specified in the factory manual per se. The manual says to set back off the pedal stopper and then set the push rod length to attain a pedal height of 8.11". Next, adjust the pedal stopper to attain a pedal height of 7.99". Also, make sure the brake light switch is not intering with the pedal stop. The second free play adjustment requires removing the master cylinder to adjust. There is another possible cause of your symptom. The bleed hole(s) in the master cylinder could be blocked. The remedy for this is a master cylinder rebuild.

No press is needed. The bushings fit by hand. The only tight fit is getting the lower arm back onto the strut as discussed above.

If you are using the OEM type rubber mount you need the strap. The strap will keep the differential from moving too much if the mount shold fail. If you have a solid (metal) mount you don't really need it.

14 to 15 volts is normal with the engine above about 1500 RPM. At idle the voltage will fall a volt or two depending on what loads are turned on, lights, heater, etc.

The capacities listed on the manuals are approximate. Always use the dipstick as the final gauge. If it only take 4 3/4 quarts to fill it so what?

High voltage can only be caused by a bad voltage regulator (or a wiring fault in external regulator systems). If the new voltmeter is in question check the voltage at the battery with a known good meter and compare the reading to the Autometer gauge.

The factory service manual has instructions for removing the front suspension, including the cradel, with the engine still in the car. They say to support the engine but don't say how. Supporting the engnie from the oil pan sounds like a problem. Use a cherry picker if you have one. You could use a support like the type used for front wheel drive cars to remove the transmission. It places the load on the strut towers. Look at the Lisle website for an example. http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=364

The oil is going into the engine. What I meant in my previous reply is that if the carb is worn the oil will move into the venturi through the wider than intended clearences. I think that the oil consumption is inherent to the desgin. The consumption rate increases due to carb wear. If you are adding oil daily you are either using the wrong oil or there is a problem with your carbs. Try using 10W-40. Don't worry too much about how it might affect performance, just try it to see if it reduces the consumption rate. Thicker oil will stay around longer.

These cars are know to have vapor lock problems. They came with asbestos insulation on the fuel rails. If yours is deterorated or missing the problem will be agrevated. One of the Datsun solutions starting in '72 or '73 was adding an electric fuel pump near the fuel tank to push the fuel against the vapor pressure. Perhaps you could add an electric fuel pump.

There is likley an o-ring on the caps, but that is not related to the oil going into the intake. There are no internal seals so if it is leaking oil intertnally it probably has worn parts.

Setting the valve with the engine hot could lead to a variation from the first vale set to the last valve set due to the engine cooling as you work. I have checked hot and then rechecked cold to see if they agree. It seems to agree fine. Therefore, I prefer to set the valves cold.

We used the hex head bolts that are intended for the end that connects to the stub axle. They seem to work fine.

There are no seals on the rack. The dust boots perform this function. Grease in the boots is likely build-up from normal servicing. There is a filler plug near the pinion shaft. Remove this and install a Zerk fitting. Use a grease gun to pump in some new grease.

There are 2 flashers. The one for the turn signals is on the drivers side of the steering column. The 4-way flasher is in the passenger side near the right kick panel. Most flasher units are round, about 1" in idameter and 1" long with two wires. If the turn signals come on but do not flash it is likely a bad flasher. However, some flashers are load dependent. If a bulb is bad or the wrong type it might not flash.

It is cheaper. Only one item to tool up to make, inventory, etc.

Ha Ha. Is this related to why my wife thinks that I might damage the (her) car by letting out the clutch while the brakes are on to stall the motor instead of simply turning the key to stop the engine? By the way, I doubt the push button start is new. The push button stop might be, not to mention the RFID keys.