phi22b@ck

I will clean that out... sorry... I need your address for shipping.

I will try that tomorrow... Here is the extent of the rust damage to the battery area... DOH -- that was pretty bad!! :devious:

Ok so here is a shot of teh bulkhead I welded up yesterday -- I still need to plum (plumb?) it to the pump and ot the engine bay but hey -- there still isnt even an engine up there to suck in the fuel ROFL

here is the back side of the junction block -- again the desired plug for removal is circled in red. THANKS! p

Ok, so I have cut out all of teh rust and I want to weld in patches for my battery tray, but the wiring harness enters the engine room near where I am welding and the sparks wont be nice to the harness. :tapemouth How do I disconnect the blue tail end from the junction box that is mounted to the passenger firewall? Here are pictures of what I am talking about -- the tail I want to siconnect is outlined with a red square. I tried to gently pry it out, but this plastic is kind of brittle and I dont want to risk breaking it. Juntion1.jpg shows the front.

So I noticed you wee asking how to remove the sound deadening. I have done this in more than one car and have used a few different methods. By far the _BEST_ way to get this stuff out of the car (IMHO) is to use dry ice -- use just enough to cover it, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then strike it (the now frozen sound deadening mat) with a chipping hammer and pick up the pieces. This will get you right down to the metal and leaves very little residue provided you get all ofteh small pieces too. Then you can simply use your shop vac to sweep up all of the pieces. Oh -- be sure to wear safety glasses.

Yeah -- I am hoping to go for something like a shortened KYB or Koni. I was looking for billstiens, but I need model compatibility first. I have also heard that the rabiit struts work, but I dont know -- there seem to be some issues with softening due to the weight, Rabbits weigh aa bit less than full dressed Z cars...

how about sharing the plans? I understand if not... Just like to see the methods of madness I want to build one, but figure I have already burnt myself with the welding and grinding sparks -- I am almost done. Maybe when I restore something else I can apply the technique.

Sorry if this is a cross post but it fits into several forums. Can anyone tell me what the cross-compatible struts are for my 280 when I shorten the struts? I have heard that the 86-91 MR2 rears will work as shortened front inserts, but would like to hear others' experience, plus what other options or any suggestions. This is for an ITS race car. Thanks! p

1. finish fuel cell installation 2. rebuild rear brakes 3. rebuild front brakes 4. install brake prop valve and plumbing 5. install coil overs and camber plates 6. weld in patch pieces for the battery area (rusted) 7. weld in NASCAR style door bars 8. transplant engine and trans from parts car to ITS car 9. fenders and bumpers from parts car and install on race car 10. fab up airdam 11. duct front brakes 12. begin rebuild on spare motor and trans 13.*** NEWLY ADDED *** replace the windsheild that I broke while trying to remove it for painting the roll cage (**&%%$##) 14. paint it and apply required numbers and sanctioning stickers. dont think I will have any extra change though

Nick -- I am in the US so I am unfortunately no help at all.. Let me know the results if you do end up building it -- here is a great write up on how to make one (sure you have already seen it but worth posting again). http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/phenley/rotisserie/index.htm

duh -- that is if you run the ducting from the airdam to the brakes... Sorry too much holiday cheer. ROTFL

Another important thing you can get out of having an airdam is forced air onto the calipers and rotors -- by adding ducting you effectively improve the life and effectiveness of your brakes. p

I would strongly recommend the upright tank models. I have an upright 30 gallon and you can move it much like the horizontal if you need to. I have a really small (and occupied) 1 car garage and needed the upright tank for footprint. All of my friends who have the horizontals have told me if they had it to do over they woudl get the upright for the reduced footprint. Make sure if you do get one of the big ones you have 240 in your garage already -- otherwise you will end up running an extension cord from the dryer -- I have to do that with the welder and it never makes the wife happy b/c that is always when she needed to do laundry... My $.02... p

we must have been typing at the same time

One good reason to use the poly bushings is that they last longer. I have heard that you can experience some noises, but I dont know that for sure. Given that you will be using it as a daily driver you should probably opt for the 5 speed as it will give you better highway RPMs. I will defer to the pro's like 2Many as to what type of insert and what type of rear end you should use. Dont think I would tow anything with the Z, but if you see it as a necessity yous should be able to get a 1" square hitch from uHaul -- not sure what the weight rating would be, but Sea Doos are not all that heavy... My $.02 and how I would do it...

What about crankshaft and rod assembly balancing? Would you do that on a basvkup? (I was thinking after schools I would switch them and start a tear down on the "old" motor"). p

My goal is to trim as many costs as possible on my racing engine build -- this is for a backup motor. I am really cheating the reaper by not replacing EVERYTHING, but since I just want to scoot around the track for a while with a beefy suspension and at least a semi-purring engine. I can wait a few seasons before I do a FULL build.... 2many -- I know I know -- not enough money to do it right the first time, but there is always enough to do it again... Inevitably the right way is replacing everything, but that can be done later :+)

2Many -- that would imply proper prior planning... something I am rarely guilty of... Thanks to all for the help! p

Ok, I have an L28 that has been _OCOMPLETELY_ dismantled. The block is at the machine shop getting tanked and miced. If it comes back within spec for the bores, what should I soak the piston/rod assembly in to dlean all of the carbon off? I remember hearing something about using some special brush for cleaning them but it has slipped my mind at this point. Also -- if the pistons that came out are within spec, and look OK what are the gains (oustside of oversizing) for getting new pistons and pins? I am definitely doing all the bearings, rings, and rod bolts already, but dont know if I should plan on getting new pistons... Thanks! p

I dont have a log book yet. I am still building for initial tech... The GCR doesnt say we can do plexi -- dang this bites... If it doesnt _say_ you can... There goes another C note +....

I am building a 76 280. I will add up what the lengths are I need... I appreciate it. We should defintely have a ClassicZcars race... Have you run at Summit before? OH -- BTW HM, I really dig your war wagon -- did you fab that or was it an acquisition? p