mjr45

I started ro do a "minor" refresh (originally just a good clean up, replace some bushings and prep for paint) on my 75Z and having been at it now for 2 months have gotten into more stuff than originally thought I would do. I have now done both frame rails (rusted out) drivers floor pan (totally rusted out), fixed rusted out inner front fenders, all new bushings, new weatherstripping, pulled the motor and tranny, removed all the interior and started prepping for new paint. All of this done with major help from reading and studying these forums, so thank you to each and everyone who contributes, there is an amazing amount of knowledge located here. I will post a pic when finally done. Again Thank You all.

Threehz, I'm sorry for misunderstanding what part you meant, I believe you are refereing to the "whisker" strip on the window opening edges. They are available from several vendors the outer one being about $50 the inner one about $8.

Threehz, are you talking about the lower window felt or the piece on the bottom of the outside of the door? I got lower window channel felts (rubber) from Oliver at Z Specialties, along with an inside door handle which no one else had. The Vintage Rubber kit is nice but spendy and you will still have to buy other pieces to do the complete car.

I'm replacing all the rubber on my 75Z, windows, doors, hatch, you name it. Since the MSA kit dosen't have it all, I figure I'll have about $500 in the whole thing. Still waiting on the MSA kit since Precision is still backed up.

Standard Ford truck interior panel clips work great, slightly larger than stock so the are tight in the door panel and the door shell.

I am starting to replace the driver side floor pan and noticed that the raised ridge where the frame rail fits is not in the old pan, its on the passenger side but not the driver. As far as I can tell the pan is the original. Would it matter if I replaced the pan from about 3" in front of the front seat mount to the firewall with a section of 16 or 18 gauge steel without ridges or drain holes?

I have 2 engines, one in the car (now runs great after a new AAM and electrical connectors) and one that I'm considering rebuilding. Th one in the car has an EGR system and the other none, no pot on the intake and no vacuum line to the throttle body. Which is the better setup? I lean towards no EGR but don't know all the facts.

Thanx once again Zed.

75 280Z which when it starts idles low, about 550, once warmed up idle goes to about 1050. I've checked the vacuum and its OK, adjusting the idle when cold to 800 gives a warm idle of about 1250. TB has been cleaned up, thermotine switch changed. I'm a little stumped. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanx Zed, I'm going to work on the car today and see if I can finally find the timing mark. In the past I just used some chaulk, but with this one a little paint will probably go on. The car runs well, but just not as well as I would like, so I'm checking all the easy stuff first, vacuum, compression, timing etc., I ve already done the basic tune, oil, plugs, spark wires, dizzy cap and rotor.

Zed, I've had 4 Z's currently own a 75, in the past I didn't do much in the way of wrenching on any of them other than basic tune ups. This one I decided to work on myself since I'm retired and have time. I'll try the suggested fixes and see what I can come up with. Thanx for all the input.

Went out yesterday to check the timing (finally got a timing light), marked the timing plate on the engine to be able to see it and found no, zero, nada, nothing timing mark on the crank pulley to mark. I know the mark is small based on the one on my spare engine and after turning the pulley multiple times, feeling the edge and running my fingernail around the entire edge, still no mark, dent or anything. Whats next and don't tell to pull the radiotor and all the belts!

Thanx Zed Head, thats the part, my manual refers to it as the "Throttle Chamber."

I've searched multiple forums and have not yet found an answer. What does the throttle chamber on the bottom of the TB actually do and why is it adjustable?

I've searched multiple forums and have not yet found an answer. What does the throttle chamber on the bottom of the TB actually do and why is it adjustable?

Put it up on ramps and checked but nothing real obvious. No recent drive train work on my part, not sure what the PO did, but he said he hadn't done anything. There is a definite clunk when putting into reverse. no real vibration and yse it does stop when the clutch is in. I'm kinda stumped as where to begin.

I have a 75 280 with 4 speed tranny. It has a loud "buzzing" type of sound in 1st and 2nd, quits down a little in 3rd and pretty much disappears in 4th. It dosen't matter what RPM, and it sounds like its coming from the tunnel, but I'm not positive. Any ideas?

I've got a 75 280 with 133K on the original motor (getting a little weak) and a 77 L28 with 80K on it, but hasn't been run in probably 10 years. Question is do I swap the old motor for the newer and then rebuild the older or other way around? I don't plan on doing any major engine mods, probably just get valve job on the 77 (B4 swapping) and some minor ignition changes. Clutch definitely has be redone, but there is a decent clutch on the 77 motor. Give me some suggestions. Thanx.

Thanx for the welcome. I'll post some pics next week. I'm looking forward to the help. since I'm sure I'll need it.

Hey there, new to the site but not the car. I just bought a 75 280Z in pretty decent shape, some rust issues and has a goofy arse paint job which will go soon, interior is fairly good, car has a MotoSport body kit which was done very well, decent tires and wheels. Also got a boatload of extra parts as well as an extra L28 engine and 5 speed tranny, paid $2500 for everything. This is the 4th Z I've owned and am looking forward to making it into a show stopper. I'm now retired, so have lots of time, but not lots of $.