Mike

Yep, heads are pretty common on a Z. This is primarily due to the different metals used. For instance, the engine block is iron. The head is aluminum. Due to the different expansion/contractraction characteristics, your head can warp. Heads can also get warped because they weren't installed correctly. There is a certain pattern to tighten the head bolts. If this pattern isn't followed correctly, the head can be tweaked out of shape. A head can also only be milled so many times before it's no good.

Yes, it's a problem with the move to our new site. Sorry abou that... I'm still working on moving everything over. This is one of the stragglers... Anyway, you can download the demo from THIS LINK Let me know what you think. Better yet, buy a CD!

Exactly what bearings are you talking about?

Chandall, you can also post pics in this forum.

Welcome to the club! Feel free to post messages with any questions you might have.... -- Moderator Mike

Yep, that was it. I was linking to pictures from the URL (www.240z.org).. And, last night I pointed www to our new server. After I modified the code to say scarab.240z.org it works fine. Geek?

Wierd, the picts were there yesterday. Ahhh.. .ok, I know what happened. I moved http://www.240z.org to our new server. If I put the old server name in there, it might fix the graphics.

The grammar errors are Kyle's fault. Kyle, I like the first sig line better... In pieces, a shell, new paint, parts all over the place, can't figure out what goes where, old engine, need money, send help quick.

I've got 15" Boyd 5-star rims with Falken 215/50's on my Z. Here's a pic of it at this point with the rims... Here's a before shot: Hope this helps... You'll probably want to bring your car into a wheel/tire shop and ask them to mount a tire and put it on your car. The only problem I had was some rubbing of the spoiler when turning HARD. It wasn't that big of a deal when I turned normally. Usually only rubbed in parking lots when I was trying to crank it...

Where did you find problems? I'd like to see if I can fix 'em. Did I say that I did this AND work on the yellow beast? Unfortunately, I haven't touched her in awhile. But, winter is here, I've got a furnace for the garage, and I'm ready to start again!

Okay, it looks like our upload capabilities are now ACTIVE!! Go for it. Upload your rides to this forum. At least until we have the "My eGallery" feature installed on the website. -- Mike

Trying a picture.

Do you like the new site?

Is the bolt sticking out enough so you can grab it with vice-grips? Be careful with that head, it's aluminum. Your bolt is steel. It's really easy to over- tighten and really mess up the threads. You might want to try and drill out the bolt with a smaller bit. Then, you'll have enough room to insert the extractor. [m]

I've never heard of a 6-carb outfit for the Z. I have a 3-carb solution by Mikuni.

Sorry, the graphics aren't working yet. I think it's a permission problem on the server. Been working on it, but, it's a low priority item at the moment. -- Mod Mike

Guys/Gals, Don't forget to ALSO post your even to our calendar section. Your event will show up in calendar format for all to see. Click calendar at the top right of your screen (5th from the right). -- Mike

So, your options are: 1) Pay your mechanic $400. Hopefully, he knows how to rebuild these carbs. If not, you might have even worse problems on your hands. 2) Pay $20 (?) for the video and DIY. Learn something about your car. Understand how to tweak the carbs if you're stuck in the desert. Know how your engine works. 3) Pay $550 and have a professional Zcar SU carb man send you a rebuilt set of carbs in PERFECT working condition. If you're not very technically inclined, I'd recommend that you use option #3. But, if you know how to tweak with things, and your car isn't your main mode of transportation.... I'd go for option #2. Practice makes perfect. Just make sure the carbs aren't totally screwed up. Or, better yet... buy the video (option #2), tweak stuff yourself, learn something... and, if they are still messed up.. Go for option #3. The $150 price difference is worth it. Believe me. You might be out $400 and still need to buy a new set. Do it right the first time. [m]

Are you speaking of the backup *LIGHT* switch? If so, it's located on the side of your transmission. Usually, it's covered by a rubber cap with two wires sticking out of it.

I would tend to agree with the point about freezing fuel. However, it takes a pretty big cold snap for the fuel to actually freeze. (that's my way of saying I have no idea what the freezing point of fuel actually is) Anyway, your venturi affect might cause condensation to freeze in your carbs. Does this happen when the car is warm or just starting to warm up? Also, I noticed that you are from San Diego.. so, I'm sure the fuel freezing problem is not the case. You might also be experiencing vapor lock in your carbs. How long has it been since you've cleaned them? Check all of your vacuum hoses and your connections on the bottom of the carbs. When it stops again, jump out of the car and open the fuel cap. Allow the pressure to release and then try to start the car again. Something to try, anyway. -- Mike

Ike, check out this site. They have a registry of many Z's on the Internet: http://zhome.com

Due to the fact that both settings are screwy... I think you have a switch problem. Have you tried taking it apart and cleaning out the contacts? If so, you might need to use a voltage meter to isolate the problem to the switch. And, if it's failing... replace it. -- Mike ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

The zcar braking system operates on a hydraulic system. This means that fluid flows from your master cylinder to your slave cylinders under pressure. When you press on the pedal, you are pressurizing the system and activating the cylinder at the other end (drums, or calipers). If the system is "soft" to the feel, you might have air bubbles in the lines. These air bubbles will compress -- which feels like soft brakes. I'm not going to say that the brake problem is an easy fix. The problems might be due to a faulty master cylinder, brake line, flex line, or even the slave cylinder. But, you might also have a simple issue such as air in the lines. The fluid might need to be changed. At that time, you can inspect the rest of the system to determine if it's in good shape or not. Here's what I would do... Ask the seller to take the car into your local shop for a brake check. Ask him to get the brakes bled at the same time. Any honest shop will tell you what's wrong with the system. Better yet, crawl under the car and look for signs of fluid seepage. You can even bleed the brakes yourself if you have the patience. Anyway, there's just a few thoughts off the top of my head. -- M ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

What? Are you nuts? Rust is a bad bad thing and should be treated seriously. Any rust that is seen at the surface can surely be considered bad because it's usually rotten underneath. Unless, of course you can live with the rusty areas and just drive the car. A small rusty area that shows up on the outside of the fender is almost guaranteed to come from a worse source underneath. It's difficult to get rid of rust permanently. Bondo, rust remover, converters, and sandpaper will work.... only if done properly. Don't under-estimate rust. Also, don't scrap a project just because it has some rust. You just need to figure out how much time you really want to spend on the "rust" -- rather than the engine, drivetrain, etc. Just some words of advice from someone who's been there. ------------------ Mike Gholson 1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

Jon, I don't really have an official write up. But, I can tell you that this particular venture is a complete pain in the arse. I did it a long time ago. All I seem to remember is a cramped neck and wet hands. I do have one bit of advice. Go buy the expensive pre-molded hoses to replace your old ones. If you try to replace those hoses with generic hose, you will be sorry (kinks and the like). I had to do it twice. If you are a "ripper and tearer"... you can tear the dash out and work on it with ease. But, that's also quite an adventure in itself.