steve91tt

My daily driver has a fodenza aluminum flywheel on a stock l24. Never had an issue in traffic. I love the feel of a light flywheel. Makes the car feel zippy.

I have a low miles centerforce for sale if you decide to go that way.

I use a stock clutch from a turbo 280zx. I think it's a "Brute" brand. It was less that $100 with bering bushing collar and alignment tool. I got it from rockauto. Feels like the 240 clutch but holds up very nicely to a rebello l30 on the track. Dave rebello recommended it to me. I use it on both an aluminum flywheel as well as a lightened stocker.

I'm a big fan of the OEM RX7 electric fuel pump. I run it on my L30 track car and on my bone stock L24 and never had an issue with fuel supply. It is very quiet inexpensive solution. I can't hear the pump when the car is running.

Well said Leon, couldn't have said it better.

If you a going to go with triples I see no reason not to put them on your current motor now. I have run my mikuni 44's on both my stock l24 and my rebello l30. They run equally well on both. I was surprised and delighted to find that no rejetting was needed when moving between motors. As long as you keep the choke size reasonable (I ran 34s) they should be very streetable.

Cool. What sort of L-series goodness is coming your way?

Yes the car accelerates out of the stumble nicely. I'll break into his house and swap carbs later this week. Don't tell him, I want it to be a surprise.

Would a sticky valve or wiped lobe only show up in a narrow rpm band? The car pulls hard to 4500 pops and then pulls hard to red line. I've driven the car. It drives like a well tuned l24 except at 4500rpm. I've got a spare e88 sitting under my work bench if you want to get adventurous. As always my parts bin is at your disposal.

Zedyone is seeing high 16's when the engine starts popping. In my experience with my wideband on my Ztherapy SU running SM's this is very high (I would see 12's or 13's under similar conditions). Part of this high number is due to the popping itself. When the engine misfires a slug of unburnt air goes down the exhaust to the O2 sensor. This causes it to read a lean condition regardless of mixture. In other words, a carb producing 12AFR can read 16AFR at the sensor during a misfire. This is something I dealt with while tuning out a transition stumble on my Mikuni's. The O2 sensor would read lean during the stumble if the jetting was lean or sloppy rich. O2 sensors only read the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. During a stumble there is always extra oxygen in the exhaust. Having said that, the fact that the application of choke makes the problem go away indicates that you are in a lean condition regardless of what the O2 sensor says. Just may $0.02

Agreed. My budy picked up a near zero rust 1970 240Z last year for $1000. It needs to have the fuel system and brakes redone but other than that it's in great shape. Even the dash is crack free! I picked up a 1971 low rust 240Z last year for $1500. Both were less than an hours drive from my house. There are still lots of low rust originals out there if you look hard enough.

Given the shavings that you found in the pump, it might be worth the effort to drop the pan and clean the oil pickup screen to make sure there is nothing there that would harm your new pump or starve it for oil.

If it were me I'd go for the higher volume turbo pump. They are readily available from auto parts stores and are a direct bolt on for your engine.

Great tip! Time to get out my pyrometer.

Why don't we try swapping the entire intake. All we'll need is a couple of intake gaskets and a spare afternoon for wrenching. Your place or mine?

Blue, We swapped my distributor into his car earlier this year...no change. My offer stands Zedyone_kenobi, you can borrow my SU's or any other part of my car you want. Just pick a time when you want to get together.

I absolutely agree with Arne. The 240Z does not have enough suspension travel to drop it much more than an inch. If you want to lower the car more than an inch here are a couple of links of how section your struts. http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/StrutSectioning.html http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38589-strut-sectioning-faq/ I sectioned the struts on my track car last year. It takes some time and you will need to find someone that can weld but if you want to lower the car the results are worth it. If you want to go this route I'd give John Coffey a call at Beta Motorsports. He is the man when it comes to suspension modification on these cars.

Lazeum makes a good point about the distributor curve. Dave coached me that with higher compression it was best to use about 17°-20° initial, 33 total and all in about 5500rpm. Flatting out the spark curve like this keeps the timing a little lower around 4000RPM where these motors tend to ping. I'm sure the best spark curve is a function of a given engine setup but in my case following Dave's recommendation with my Mallory Unilite provided a ping free 10.3:1 compression pump gas motor.

Good idea on checking the carb screens. If the fuel pressue at the carbs checks out then you can rule out the entire fuel system before the carbs (tank, pump(s), filter(s), lines, etc.).

Have you checked fuel pressure? Do the front three plugs look the same as the back three. Sometimes when one carb acts up the plugs will show differences front to back.

It sounds like you are building a great combination. 9.97:1 should be fine. I'm running 10.3:1 CR on 93 octane without issue. I'm biased towards a big cam in these engines but it's a personal preference. If you do a search I don't think you will find many folks who regret a big cam but I bet you find a bunch that regret buying one that was too small. Having said that, I suspect the powerband of your cam will be limited by the ability of your SU's to supply enough air to the L28 on the top end. The lift you can run may also be limited by your valve springs unless you plan to change them. If it were me I would give Dave Rebello a call and see what he suggests for your setup. Dave should be able to match a cam grind to your setup. Good luck with the build and keep us updated with your progress!

Gotta love a cheap effective fix.

Mine was bad enough that the distributor shaft would jump out of the drive rod and shut the car down if I reved it to fast. So, yes I guess that counts as an ignition problem. My issue ended up be caused by poor machining of the new distributor I was installing. Swapped it out and no problems since.

I feel your pain, I had the Hula dancing distributor issue last year.

yep, no spacers.