steve91tt

That's how I found it. I just did not know what the relay did as I currently have the fuse pulled out of my electric pump. I'm guessing that I can no longer use the pump with the way the car is wired.

Where is the fuel pump relay? That could have been my problem as well as my electric fuel pump is currently disconnected at the pump.

I installed the ZXP in my 1973 240Z a few weeks ago and I did start having battery drain issues. The battery would go flat after sitting in the car over the weekend. I did not attribute it to the ZXP but I also did not notice the issue before the ZXP was installed. I found that if I unplugged what I think is some sort of relay near the passenger side kick plate the issue went away. I've been driving the car every day since I unplugged the relay 2 weeks ago and I have not noticed anything not working so I have not spent any time to track down what it is supposed to do. I was guessing that it was the rear window defogger relay as that never worked anyways...but I could be wrong.

I think $25K is a little high. I bought a 1973 earlier this year with similar condition and originality with 60K on the odometer for a way less than $25K. I'm thinking $8-12K depending on what a closer inspection turns up.

Seat foam condition is also an issue. With my original seat foams installed I had lots of head room (6'3" in a 1973 240Z) even with two spacers on the seat rails. However, when I installed my new foams I had no head room even with the spacers removed. Since the install the foam has settled in and now I have a good inch or two to spare with no spacers. Fits me perfectly now.

How are the plugs and wires? If they look like they have some age then I would get new ones as a good set does not cost much and that way you know you are working with a good set. If you have a good solid distributor base then you might also think about switching to a pertonix setup. Again, not that expensive and an easy to install. A very worthwhile upgrade from points (in my opinion:)). Just do a quick site search and you should have all the info you need.

First thing to do is to figure out if you are getting power to the plugs. Try pulling a plug, putting in the boot and grounding the electrode by setting it on a grounded piece of metal. If you see a spark while cranking then you have power to the plugs and as long as the timing is right and there is no major mechanical issues you need to start looking at the fuel side of the equation.

Is that the PCV hose? If so then some smoke would be normal.

I did wash the car just before putting it into the garage. I did not have the nerve to try very hard to brake it loose with the engine. If it happens again...I'll give that a shot.

I drive the car every day so the brakes get lots of exercise. I can't see how the shoe would have time to rust itself to the backing plate but I will take it apart again to check for corrosion.

Do you mean rust in the internals of the brake cylinder or between the shoe and backing plate? If it happens to me again when I am not in my garage, is there a way of freeing up the system without taking it apart?

My passenger side rear brake seized yesterday and I can't figure out the cause. It seized up after sitting overnight with the parking brake on. I took off the parking brake cable and this did not help. I then hit the drum a couple of times with a rubber mallet and I was able to pry the drum off of the shoes. All looks normal inside. The shoes move freely and they are well lubed. I spun the adjuster wheel a couple of times and put the system back together and now the car stops, goes and the parking brake works. What could have caused this? I took that brake cylinder apart a couple of thousand miles ago to check the condition of the piston and bore. It looked good. I did not rebuild it but it did not look like it needed rebuilding. To play it safe, I have a Nissan rebuild kit on the way from my local dealer so I will install that soon but I want to make sure I am not overlooking something that will leave me stranded in the future. Any advice?

I would also be interested in fiberglass splash shield.

Thanks man! I spoke to Dave Morreale today and he is coming down on Thursday to appraise it. Dave seems like a great guy. Thanks for the hook up.

95% finished putting things back together after getting it back from paint. The front lip from Classic Datsun turned out great. I had to make a couple of small cuts with a dremel to fit it around the 1973 bumper mounts but no biggy. You can't see it unless you are looking for it. Over all I am very happy with the way the entire car turned out.

It's very compliant stuff. Extremely easy to work with.

Cool video.

Here is the 90° at the top of the door... Here is a picture of how it fits on the hatch...

I spent the morning installing Dave's (Zs-ondabrain) head light, parking light and alternator upgrade kits. I know many good things have been said about these products but I want to add my thumbs up as well. Excellent quality, easy to install and they do everything that they are supposed to. My kids also decided that my father's day gift would be a free car detailing. Gotta love being a father.

Excellent, thanks for the contact!

That's more what I was thinking. +10K with new paint and straight body.

Maybe I'm not looking in the right places but around here 240Z's that come up for sale for under $5000 are pretty beat up.

I haven't seen any for sale in the last 6 months in the Houston area for that price and condition. Just curious, what do you guys think fresh paint and dent removal would do for the value of the car?

Thanks for the feedback. I'll go for the appraisal next week.

I need to update my insurance and I am looking for some advice. I don't qualify for agreed value (antique car) insurance because my 240Z is my primary transportation. Therefore I think the best way to insure is to go with declared value insurance. The declared value policies that I have looked at from StateFarm and Progressive both state that the maximum payout is the lesser of the declared value and the actual cash value. The actual cash value will be determined by an adjuster after an accident. Therefore my insurance agent(s) have advised me to document the car well and consider getting an appraisal from a certified auto appraiser. Not the self appointed appraiser that you find at most used car dealers but an accredited appraiser. http://www.certifiedautoappraisers.com/ An appraisal from a certified appraiser costs about $250 where the local car dealer will do it for $30. Anyone have any experience with how the various types of appraisals stand up in the case of an insurance claim?