steve91tt

Do you know why the spay bar plugged off? I understand why they crack with age but I don't see why they would plug off. I'd hate to see you put a new internally oiled cam in there and find that what ever is plugging your cam oiler causes you to loose a bearing. Have you had the engine apart? When I pulled my L24 apart I found a surprise... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40193-The-PO-gave-me-wood&highlight=owner+wood Not to say that I expect you to have wood in you motor but if you are plugging oil passages you might give some thought to dropping the pan to try to find the cause. Just my $0.02

Most of the folks building NA motors for these cars are not worried about keeping the original block. You don't see many high HP L24's because L28's are cheap, available and bolt right in. The extra displacement just makes things easier. John said above that he has seen a 2.4L L6 engine make 208hp on a SAE certified engine dyno running a "stock" cam, SU carbs, headers, and a good ignition. This agrees with what I have read elsewhere and what Dave Rebello also told me about his experience building these motors. If you took that motor and added a decent cam, triples and did some porting I don't see why it wouldn't be over 200HP at the wheels and be quite streetable. 85hp per liter at the wheels is not unreasonable for these motors given the fact that John is making 98hp per liter at the wheels with his L30 race motor.

Well said

Slap a set of triples on that 2.7 and I'd bet money that it would put out over 200 to the wheels.

Nice thread over at Hybridz that should answer your question in detail. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102085-200-whp-na-build/ After reading this thread, it doesn't look like a streetable L6 with 200HP at the wheels is difficult to do. Rebello and others seem to be churning them out.

Outstanding! Just the information I was looking for. thanks guys.

I am in the process of refreshing the engine that will be going into my 240Z track car and I need to know the size of the plug to block off the heater hose tap at the back of the head. On the engine that is current in my car I have all of the coolant hoses deleted except for the rad hoses. I like this setup as it cools very well and minimizes the potential for cooling system failure at the track. To block the heater hose port at the rear of the head I am currently using a short length of hose with a metal plug and clamp. While I've got the engine out of the car I would like to remove this coolant fitting altogether and replace it with a plug installed directly in the head. I've searched here and on Hybridz and have not been able to find the size of plug I need to order. Some say it's a standard pipe plug and some claim it to be a british pipe thread. Anyone have experience with plugging this fitting?

Started the process of swapping my stroker motor from my street car to my track car. The stroker is out and stripped to the short block. Lots of cleaning and little details to take care of while the motor is out. I'll miss the wonderful power of the L30 on the street but with a built head and a set of 44s it's going to be a blast on the track.

I discovered that one of my drive shaft U-joints is on the way out. Looks like they are easy to replace however I need to decide on which brand to buy. Does anyone have any experience using Precision, ACDelco, Federated or Beck/Arnley? Are these any different than the "heavy duty" ones that MSA sells? If the drive shaft was going in my street 240Z then I wouldn't worry about it as much but this one is going in my track car so I want to make sure I pick a U-joint that will stand up to punishment the best.

Sound like you are going in the right direction If you have a set of bigger pilot jets that may be worth a try as well. No experimenting for me right now as I'm in the process of pulling the engine but I'm looking forward to hearing more about what you find with the bigger pump jets.

Jon, When you are talking about screens are you referring to the following type of filter? They are marketed as "Three layer stainless steel, filtering down to .009 with virtually no air flow restrictions" I assume from what you are saying that this is not the case.

I'm running air horns with mesh filters but I have never run them any other way. I love the way they look and sound but I can't say what it does for performance.

Your comment on reving it up a couple of times to clear it is interesting. I have found similar myself and had attributed it to the accel pump circuit being only partially full due to fuel boiling. The way the Mikuni accelerator pump system is setup somewhat different than the webber system. The volume of fuel is controlled by the position of the rod where the rate at which it is delivered is controlled by the nozzles. The larger nozzles should dump fuel into the system more quickly at transition. Hopefully that will help. You say that moving to the top hole helped. Have you tried extending the rod by turning the threaded portion a turn or two. This is a way of getting more fuel volume at transition. My engine likes to idle a little on the rich side (11-12ish). Since the pilot system is also active at transition you might try backing off your pilot screws 0.25 turn to see if that helps. Keep us posted!

I too am fighting a similar stumble with my Mikuni's 44's that shows up as a lean spot on my AFR meter so maybe we can learn in this thread together. The lean condition you are seeing on your AFR meter can be caused by either a lean condition or extra oxygen being introduced via a misfire. In other words diagnosing transitions with an AFR can be tricky. A few questions... Are you running a heat shield? What size chokes are you running? Have you tried moving the accelerator pump to a different hole to see if it affects the transition stumble? Have you tried the effect of other jet combinations on the stumble? What are your AFR's at idle, WOT and steady state highway?

I suspect the springs on your car are aftermarket lowering springs. Stock springs should have tension at full droop. Be careful with lower springs with kyb struts. Some have had trouble with longevity with that combination. If this turns out to be the case and you find you want to swap out the springs send me a pm. I've got both a set of stock and a set of eibach's that will get you closer to stock ride height and work better with the kyb's.

Nice job Blue!

Beautiful work!

I'm still in the very steep part of the learning curve when it comes to both track driving and setting these cars up to run them on the track. I would love to hear a little more about the car setup you are using to be successful at TWS and Cresson. I've been reading old posts both here and on HybridZ but there are so many variables to consider and lots of opinions on what makes a Z go fast. I love reading posts from the folks that have "been there and done that" so I can start to sort the fact from opinion.

Rick did mention another 240z. I believe there is a photo of it in the slide show on the front page of the drivers edge web site. He said it had a skyline engine in it and a bunch of suspension work. Is that you? I was planning for cresson in december but the stars didn't line up. I will be doing the January event however. Hope to see you there. Since you are in red I would love to get a ride!

I'm a fan of a sticky set of 205 50 15s. They don't have the contact patch of the 225's but they have less rolling resistance and they are shorter than stock which give an effective gearing advantage. There are also more high performance options with the 205s as these are commonly used by track Miatas.

My alignment settings are as follows... Camber =-3.5° F and R Caster = 3° toe = 1/16" out ride height = 5.5"F 6.0"R I am running Illuminas on setting 4 all the way around. I think you are right, Illuminas are pretty much maxed out on my springs. Traction is definitely an issue as I'm having to feather the throttle from apex until I get the wheels pointed down track on every slowish turn. I have an clutch type R180 LSD out of a 06STi sitting in my garage waiting for adaptors from BetaMotorsport. That should help track out but if I understand you correctly turn in will suffer further. Hopefully the sway bars and a bit of tuning will balance things out but time will tell.

The car seems to grip like crazy in the long sweepers. The problem I'm having is in the transitions. The old girl just does not like to respond to weight shift very quickly. The tighter the turn the more she struggles. I can cure some of it by keeping weight on the nose with trail braking but on the tight stuff I have to enter slower than the other cars to avoid understeer and exit slower to avoid excessive wheel spin. I'm hoping the bars, LSD and a little more caster might help. Any other suggestions are very welcome.

I've got a set of ST's sitting in my garage. But as you said, it's going to take some work in the back and frame stiffening in the front to get them to work well on the track. These modifications are next on my list...

I'm thinking swaybars, limited slip and driver knowledge would go along way to shaving some time off my laps. I think the L24 is plenty for my level.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I have Dave's relays on my 1973 daily driver. They work great. My track car is the one with the problem so I very rarely use headlights. I more concerned with electrial reliability than anything. I'll start cleaning grounds this weekend.