Zed Head

If the engine runs fine and it's just the tachometer that's weird then a condenser/capacitor might help. But if the engine runs weird also, that is a sign of a bad ignition module. Mine would run fine until I too it over ~3000 RPM, then it would behave (the ignition module) like you describe. The tachometer read too high, and the engine ran rough and would barely idle. If I turned the engine off, it would fix itself, until I took it over 3000 RPM again.

Are you in Vancouver BC or Vancouver WA? Read through some of your old posts and don't get a general picture of what's going on. In general, if things don't start working the way they should, getting all of the basics right is a great place to restart. Do all of the tune-up procedures and you won't have to wonder about them.

Those numbers vary with model, but are all shown in the FSM's, Engine Electrical chapter, Distributor section. Here's an easy link also, where they've been compiled. You'll need Excel or an Excel viewer. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html

Is there a problem with the way the engine runs? Didn't see any described. The first thing described in the Tune Up chapter is valve adjustment. It seems like it might be the most difficult, changing plugs is easy and external, but I would guess it's #1 for a reason. Probably because it has the most effect if it's wrong. I'm just like most people and did not adjust my valves until well after I had messed with everything else, when I first got my car.

You can really get your head spinning on these modifications...

I realized over the last few days that the person suggesting the heat pipe theory, FastWoman, has her fuel rail wrapped with insulation, and little sign of the heat soak problem. But she does have FJ3 injectors. One more reason to wonder. It's hard to get a grasp on a single solution for the problem. Still haven't heard from the two other guys with barbed aluminum rails. Probably out enjoying the spring weather.

The material comes from rossmachine drilled lengthwise but otherwise there are no other holes. Here's a member who just received a pre-made rail, Post #138. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/50066-280z-full-restore-5-months-hopefully-2.html#post455933 If you're not handy with tools, like drills and taps, and don't want to run around looking for fittings, the pre-made rails aren't really a big premium over replacing stock parts, or trying to make your own, once you add up the drill bit and taps and fittings and rail.

Those look the FJ3 or FJ707 injectors. They have a different nozzle shape but they all shoot a very narrow stream, I think. They're not a problem for the others that use them. The intake vacuum sealing area is that the bottom of the metal body, where you'll be putting the small o-shaped gaskets, and it's the same distance from the metal clamp the screws go through. Is that a pallnet rail?

Looks like siteunseen and I followed the same path on the regulators. I went the budget route though and modified one for vacuum level adjustment. Links attached,plus an Amazon option for the one already done. You don't need the cross-drilled hole, the sharp end of the needle does not sit in a seat,it just floats in space. Edit - forgot to say that if you do your own modification practice drilling a long straight hole on a few cheap bolts first. I practiced and I still came close to messing it up. Although, you can build a new bolt, its purpose is just to move the spring seat up and down. Edit 2 - I think that Eurodat is right and siteunseen is running the no-vacuum source regulator. So, site, you're running a little rich during part throttle operation. Might have a little gassy exhaust smell? Since it works for you, you might not want to mess with it, but if you're handy with a drill and have a small piece of metal tube and some JBWeld you could add the vacuum port. Edit 3 - "boost" really just refers to any pressure change from ambient. Above ambient is typically called boost, below is called vacuum. But the diaphragm and spring in the regulator in the regulator don't really care, they just move accordingly. Dune-Buggy.com - Plumbing the Fuel System New Bosch 0280160001 Fuel Pressure Regulator Made in Germany | eBay Or ready-made: Amazon.com: MSD Ignition 2222 Boost/Fuel Press.Regulatr: Automotive

I see that you did get back in to your Hybridz thread. On the welded diff - it just makes it easier to "get sideways" and impress the crowd. That's it, in a nut shell. Its only purpose, for a street car.

Chas-san. You might be thinking of the old Porsche-VW style early adjustable regulators, with no vacuum port. The newer aftermarket regulators have the vacuum port to the back of the diaphragm. They offer an adjustable start-point, but with retention of the vacuum adjustment via the intake manifold. They're typically smooth and racy looking, with a variety of color choices. Beware the pressure leak-down of the aftermarket regulator though. They are not precision made pieces and the valve seats often won't hold pressure when the fuel pump turns off.

He said "a cleaner look". And grins. The cleanest look would be one of the newer ones with a 14mm o-ring port that plug directly in to the fuel rail. I don't think that you can get them in 2.5 bar though (36.3 psi), they're all 3.0 or more.

The answers to the same questions on Hybridz were all pretty good. They'll be about the same over here. The new question about blowing the motor is kind of moot. It just depends on how the driver drives it.

Running a business is hard work, and running it well is even harder. How you handle the problems can make the difference. And Silvermine is promoting itself as a full service, striving-for-excellence, the-customer's-experience-matters kind of company. If his/their web site said "we're just some guys making parts on the side", the situation could be looked at differently. About Us Sounds like he realized he needs to fix the master cylinder problem. I assume that he covered the shipping costs. That's life on the big stage, no hiding.

Personally, I appreciate these kinds of stories. The world is moving toward companies trying to buy and manipulate their reputations, rather than put the work in. I hope though, that you didn't jump the gun on your dealing with Silvermine. He's been on this site I believe, so he might screw you over even worse.

The front stud tends to break also. Wrote a whole nerdy thing about materials and expansion/cooling but it probably boils down to you only get so many cycles (metal fatigue) before the studs break. The ones on the ends move the farthest during a heating and cooling cycle. A good reason to replace the studs if you have the manifolds off.

Considering the recent heat pipe cooling theory by Fastwoman on the hot start problem, fins might actually be the way to go. It's a dilemma, since when the engine is running you'll be taking heat to the fuel tank, but when the engine's stopped, you'll be cooling the injectors. Assuming the theory is in play. More work is needed (this is the statement with which almost all research presentations end).

siteunseen's link has all of the relevant information. I assume you''l be using it as a guide? One area I made a mistake on mine that needed fixing, was I left it too long in front. There's only so much space available between the injector and the thermostat housing. I had to grind a corner on mine to get it to fit. I could have recut and retapped but I didn't even know if it was going to work. Future fix. Good luck.

I was going to suggest the same, but he's in Panama and I don't know how things work down there. Probably not a muffler shop every five miles like we have here in the States.

You might be looking at the ports on the FPR backward. The center port on the bottom of the FPR is the return port. Fuel is fed in to the rail directly, then the FRP acts as a pressure relief valve, bleeding excess pressure off through that center port. If you have old hoses on the stock 1975 rail they might have longitudinal cracks that will seep or squirt fuel. I had an episode of a tiny three foot stream of fuel squirting out of an old injector hose once. A 1978 rail is solid steel (no connecting rubber hoses like on the 75-77 rails) and will bolt on directly, but it will need the FPR it came with also. Attached a drawing...

Thanks, I sent them both a message, we'll see if they get back. I also posted over on Hybridz to pallnet to see if a person could buy his barbed rail, with the potential for modifying to o-rings later. But, apparently, his o-ring rails have the holes offset so it wouldn't be a straight hole-enlarging operation. Mine are centered with no issues, so it should be doable for anyone building their own rail though. I bought the rossmachineracing scratch and dent rail off eBay. Same as shown in your thread, just saved a few dollars. It only had a few extrusion swirlys as defects, otherwise it was in great shape. He sells the good stuff there also. I'm filling up the forum, break time..... Raw Dash 6 Fuel Rail Sold by The Foot Scratch and Dent | eBay Raw Dash 6 Fuel Rail Extrusion Sold by The Foot RMR 019 | eBay

Here's the link to my other thread. Still collecting information. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/52171-modern-injectors-new-fuel-rail-no-heat-soak-problem.html#post455660

Brake calipers on the wrong sides, bleed screw on the bottom. Now I know better. Followed by a brake fluid leak after pressure could be applied, from a scratch in the bore, probably from the dust seal wire, removed when the PO was rebuilding the calipers. Then re-installing them upside down.

I've been using 7 now for a little while and have to say that, with an extra one MB of memory, it is much much better than my old XP system. Just Windows 7 and twice the memory (two instead of one MB). Then there's this stuff that I don't have to worry about - Defense, energy, banks hit by Internet Explorer bug - May. 2, 2014

Did you replace the diff when you found the loose part? I don't know what a "spider gear spacer" is but whatever it is probably came loose because something broke. Or if it just a loose part, thee's probably damage from running that way. Does the ratchet noise follow the rotation of the shafts, or is it a one time sound that only happens when the diff nose moves up and down? Also, I don't think that you can get much movement at all from the front rubber mount, with no load on the diff. Wheels in the air, nothing should visibly move at all, unless you have the parking brake on. If you can see the diff nose moving, your front mount is probably shot. You should probably take the diff and mustache bar out, replace the diff, and check the two studs while everything's out. That's what I would do. It seems unlikely that the body of the car would crack around the mustache bar stud.