Zed Head

You work in Arizona where it never gets cold. Did you or your son ever break a windshield? You said you replaced dozens but didn't say that you never broke one. My first experience removing a windshield was in a wrecking yard. The owner was gone and his wife told me and my friend that we should wait but I told her that we could do it. It was about 35 F. A small tendril of adhesive was still attached (GM used a rope of sticky tar-like adhesive for windshield installs. Nasty stuff) as we tried to lift it out and it cracked. We left, I didn't pay for it (cause I was a punk kid), and the owner started calling me "Easy Money" after that. In the long run I paid him back by giving him a 66 GTO (the same one that I was getting the windshield for) after I wrecked it, and his son a 55 Chevy pickup truck after the axle bearing went bad. The statement was, basically, that old windshields, especially those with chips, are more prone to cracking than new ones. Just because you guys were careful enough to get it done doesn't mean the statement is not true. Anybody who's watched a chip grow in to a crack and spread across the windshield should know. Tell some stories about how to get it done. Heating the adhesive helps, a warm day helps, make sure that every scrap of adhesive is cut free (a PO might have tried to seal a windshield leak in the past). Stuff like that. Interesting though that by the statement it broke during installation. So the BS calling ia about the wrong part as are my suggestions above.

I don't know, that Amazon link looked new to me. Pretty interesting. Hope my memory is not fading...

The polymer adhesive layer probably loses flexibility over time. That could change the forces on the two glass layers. And besides the visible chips the whole surface of the glass is probably etched to a certain degree after years of road debris and acid rain and washings. A vast array of stress risers. As a whole, an old windshield would/should be more prone to cracking than a new one. One more opinion. Did @zKars ever get his windshield? He said he would post back in that other thread.

Interesting drama on BAT. Arizona retitling. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-98/#comments-anchor

Here's another. No need to go to the specialty shops, I think. https://www.kitsapvalueglass.com/

These guys look promising. They're in the automotive heartland (of the past). https://koolkatzautoglass.com/products/windshield-fits-nissan-1975-1978-280z-1970-1973-240z-1974-260z-oem-new https://koolkatzautoglass.com/pages/about-us https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Area_code_440

Here's a variation, maybe even the inspiration for (or vice-versa), of the Silvermine adapter flange. It doesn't have the 4 mm problem. Lots of other good details in the thread too. And he was selling them. Doesn't look like he's visited Hybridz since late May though. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128943-z31t-axle-swap-can-fit/#comment-1204163 https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128951-fs-z31t-axle-adapter-flanges-for-s30-r200-slim-design/#comments

My point was just that I didn't know when "Silvermine" was introduced to the work. It appeared with no previous mention. They have a lot of stuff. Couldn't tell what you were working with. https://www.silverminemotors.com/collections/datsun-280z

JMortensen had a good suggestion over on Hybridz, years ago. He assembles his suspension without the spring and runs the hub through its full travel by hand. Might be worth doing to verify the problem Also note that for a reason that has not been quantified, the 240Z's tend to have binding problems with the factory u-joint shafts after an R200 swap. The only rational reason would be that the 240Z flanges project in toward the center of the car (less distance between flanges left to right) than on the 280Z's. In short, it might be worth confirming it's a 280Z problem and not just a 240Z problem. On the nut - you could tack it down with a MIG welder if you have one. It's easily accessible to grind off in the future. 200,000 miles from now.

Those dimples around the edge here could be detonation damage or foreign object. The damage looks the same, but it's only at the edges in your case where the detonations would be. Not a big deal, just an observation. What's the top of that piston look like?

Sorry, I misunderstood. You're saying it's a Trakmotive problem. But don't the Trakmotive axles come with the Silvermine kit? I don't know.

Hastings implies that their rings are not meant to be filed to fit unless they are racing rings. https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/

If the supplier doesn't know then they'll just keep disappointing customers. One of those weird ironies where exposing flaws helps the company. You've already said, in essence, that the Silvermine product(s) (undefined) has/have problems. Sorry, it's just the logic of the situation. Not sure that "on notice" is the correct term here. You might find that it really was you, not them. But, without the story it looks like them.

Can't you just post the details here? We want to know too...

Not sure if you mentioned the Silvermine package in one of your threads (it's hard to to follow along when you start a new thread for each sub-project), but if it's one with adjustable control arms you could also widen the track to get clearance for the axles. That's what some people do. And, since I'm here, might as well say that the u-joint halfshafts are actually pretty strong, Lots of guys run them with high HP Chevy small blocks. The CV axle swap was a neat idea when people were using Nissan CV axles but I'm not so sure that aftermarket Trakmotive axles are better than Nissan u-joint halfshafts. Not trying to be a buzzkill, just pointing out the aftermarket problem. That is also something to keep in mind if you run the u-joint shafts for a while. New aftermarket u-joints are probably not better than used Nissan u-joints. Anyway, looks like fun.

Haven't read the details but if you're planning a CX axle conversion you'll want to take good measurements if you're using aftermarket CV axles. Apparently they often have longer compressed lengths than the factory CV axles. People have had problems. Don't forget to use the axle shaft as the center for machining when you convert to hub-centric. Since Nissan used lug-centric they would have no reason to set a tight tolerance on the rough cut of the "hub".

Let's make some equine hamburger - https://www.zhome.com/History/ZCARPICT.htm

Does anybody have a better name for #5 than "Limb"? Can't think of one at the moment but theirs doesn't seem right.

The FSM gives an indication, if you assume that the draftsman put the drawing in the correct positions.

It's a good time to grease the u-joints on your half shafts. There are small slotted plugs in the Zerk fitting holes.

#4 might do fuel pump stuff. #1 might actually be the trigger wire for the ECU from the coil negative. By the diagram and the connector shapes.

The Factory Service Manual has the pinouts and the connector shapes shown in the various chapters and the wiring diagram. For #4. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Here's an old thread that talks about replacements. Big picture though, you could just use the wiring diagram and power things up to get the EFI system working. The combined relay is more complex than it needs to be. In 1978 they split the two relays apart. Were it mine, I'd power up the EFI system using the 1978 diagram, and use more modern methods for the fuel pump, like an inertia switch system. Or, just use 1978 relays and a 1978 wiring diagram. The two white wires in your picture are for diagnostics. You can ignore them. #1 is probably the ground wire.

When I posted the post above I had only read the last short post of yours. What you wrote here is a very good description of a failing ignition module. It's how mine acted as it was crapping out. Search "HEI ignition module" on the site for a cheap and pretty easy swap to a more modern, by just a little, cheap ignition module. You can also find them around the internet, but a used one is going to be on its way to failure also.