Zed Head

Can you share the name of the vendor now? If that's where you bought the rings. Save other CZCC members the same agony. If they have a website, the rings are probably shown on it.

Not sure a leakdown test would show the source of the oil. It shows whether the rings or the valve seats are sealing well, holding pressure in the combustion area. The valve seals were apparently just eyeballed. A borescope might still show something. Oil soaked intake valves, versus clean ones. The oil from the crankcase must come through the intake system or past the rings. Or just pulling the intake manifold. Or the head. Pulling the engine is pretty easy though. On the rings - he implied that he got the rings from a suspect vendor. So it's an issue of ring quality or type or labeling. All of them. Seems like the builder would have noticed but who knows. But for some reason emccallum had the boxes. Not sure how the rings got on the pistons.

I see 5 extra HP and 3 MPG. That is a work of art. I'd run a transparent hose with it so it can be admired.

Is there a way to lean it way out? That might answer the question. Lean it out until it pops and backfires and dies. Make a video.

Here's another.

There are threads out there about the one spring(ed) distributors. I think that the end decision was that some come that way.

Does the PCV distribute to both manifolds? Check the block hose for oil.

Here is a goofy possibility - maybe you put in too much oil. Wrong dipstick/dipstick tube combination.

I think that most of use already know who the vendor is. Which parts? Pistons? Rings? Valve seals? What brand were they? Or did you buy a complete head?

Which stuff? You don't have to mention the vendor.

I had the same question. Looks like he checked. Kind of sounding like the wrong rings were used or somebody made a mistake somewhere. If you're going to swap engines you might just take it out and beat on it for a while. What harm can it do? Maybe you'll get lucky and the rings will seat and start sealing properly.

Can't tell what is directly above the leak areas, gravity-wise. Were you parked nose down? Be the water. I found that water could get in to the window seal in one spot and travel through the gap between rubber and glass to exit somewhere else. Happened on both the front and rear windows. The hatch hinge area is leak prone, apparently. Somebody just posted recently, asking how to install new rubber there. There are seals, left and right. 30 and 31. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/tail-gate-bumper/sep-74-to-jul-76

R2D2's beep-beep-boop.

Actually, it's better to put your pointer next to the rim for side to side wobble. And, you can also take the wheel off and use a more precise indicator on the flange itself. Or you can clamp a long lever on to the flange so that the movement is amplified, and use a less precise indicator. Many possibilities.

🎲🎲

👀 first.

You could have a bent hub flange or axle. It happens. Setting up a crude runout measuring device would tell you. Jack up a wheel, place a block some kind next to, put a stick on top and place the end close to the tire and/or the rim. Spin the tire and watch the gap between the stick and the wheel. Do the sides and the tread.

You're using precise numbers on initial timing, 10 and 15, but no numbers on the rest of the curve. And your test doesn't tell you about anything parts sticking. Sticky throttle plates are common. A new path to follow...

I don't know anything about your car's history. I'm just pretty pretty pretty sure that Nissan did not use fuzzy fabric on the visor. I could be wrong. You can probably feel the screw under the fabric if you squeeze in the right spot. Cut a tiny hole and stick a screwdriver in. Looks like somebody just sewed new fabric over the old vinyl. Probably made it heavier, so more droop-prone.

Really depends on what your goal is. I'd still take the breaker plate off and have a look inside just to be sure you know what you're working with. I collected quite a few and most of them had a stuck breaker plate (no vacuum advance), and crusty gummed up centrifugal advances. Might be why your idle speed is changing.

Intake vacuum is a diagnostic tool, not a target. You should know your distributor's vacuum and mechanical advance curves to help decide where to set your initial timing.

Nissan didn't use fuzz. You know where it is...

I am not implying that you should buy a reman computer but I just wandered across this on the internet. Apparently somebody is producing remanufactured ECU's. In "reman world" that could mean anything from all parts that degrade over time have been replaced to all parts have been tested and left in place if they worked. If you bought an ECU from ZSpecialties it was almost certainly a used one. Oliver has a huge collection of used Z's and Z parts, apparently. Anyway here is that link, just for future reference. Do lots of testing first. https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/engine-control-computer/p/bse-engine-control-computer-ecc1450/53480_0_0

When you check the wires at the ECU you're checking exactly what the ECU sees. If it's not right then you move down the wires to find the source of the wrong numbers.

Sitting in the driver's seat the plastic panel would be directly left of your left knee. It has a rectangular hole in it that allows you to see the tag on the ECU. There are two or three screws holding it, one of them does not need to be removed all of the way. Borrowed this from the BAT 8000 mile Z.