Zed Head

Actually, you've thought it out just about right. I wish I had before I changed my bushings the first time. Turns out that you can remove the TC rod and bushings while the car is on the ground, very easily. Turn the wheel one way or the other and you can get to the front bolts/nuts. The back nut can be reached from the top or the bottom. Trying to do it with the wheel hanging is almost impossible.

I found a secondary mention of John Coffey using Swepco, but it was for the diff. Also found one of the old threads about using it in the transmissions. Not trying to argue, I just have one of those weird long-term memories also. Boon and bane. Plus he responded right after one of my posts so it stuck in my brain. #14 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112152-super-duper-slick-as-snot-trans-fluid/ #2 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51945-torsen-lsd/

We wish...

Actually, John Coffey is the one who said Swepco destroyed his synchros. He only tried it once. JMortensen is the one who often recommended it. I've been using it for at least 20,000 miles with no signs of problems. Heat is very effective at loosening up whatever sealant Nissan used on those plugs. A torch or a heat gun. Makes a huge difference, but can be nervy if things are oily under there. Heat gun better for that situation. I used the same filling method except I just moved real fast when I saw fluid leaking from the fill hole, and cleaned up the area and catch pan so that I could re-use the overflow. Overall, it's on par with the spindle pin replacement in potential problems. I have a 300ZX front case that had a drain plug that would not budge at all, no matter what. Probably why I got the tranmsission for $20.

High RPM grinding when trying to make a quick shift at high RPM, like shifting up through the gears for acceleration, and notchy shifting aren't the same thing. Don't get them confused. To add some detail to my 3rd gear situation - mine made a short "buzz" that I knew was a synchro problem. Kind of like rubbing 10 teeth on a comb against a desk edge. It only happened when trying to shift quickly at ~5000 RPM or higher. The AC Delco might do the job, I'm just saying that I had what sounds like the exact same problem with the same model of 5 speed, and MT90 fixed it. Details for clarity. I use a different blend of fluids in my transmission today because I had a mid-range notchy/grindy problem that Redline wouldn't fix. Swepco 201 and ATF. I'll probably just keep using that for all future transmissions because it works so well. But Swpeco is hard to find and you have to blend it and not many people use it and somebody's transmission ruined the synchros (probably coincidentally to the fact that they were in the middle of a race) when they used it. So it's controversial. JMortensen recommended it. He's also done some comparisons of the various fluids out there, I think. Maybe he'll comment. @jmortensen

I had a high RPM 3rd gear grind with a 1978 5 speed. Changed to Redline MT90 from Valvoline 80/90W and it went away. The AC/Delco product is probably good also. You might check to be sure that the fluid level is right first. Or just go ahead and switch to a better fluid. Make sure you remove the filler plug before the drain plug. Heat, PB blaster, breaker bar.

I think that there's only one for the circuit he's talking about. Brakes are on their own circuit, as are headlights and turn signals. Edit - just noticed that turn signals are shown as 4th down, but the fuse box cover shows that as fuel gauge. Nissan maybe ran out of space? Shown in the wiring diagram though. FSM weirdness.

Could be, or it could just be dirty. There's a round thing that spins inside a round thing, or close to it, with a narrow gap between them. Stuff can get in the gap. If you're handy you could remove it and use a drill motor to spin it to see if it still sticks. That takes the cable out of the picture. I think that I've read of people just blowing out the dust accumulation and bring them back to life. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+a+speedometer+works&site=webhp&tbm=vid&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNj8vd8sfSAhUDx2MKHfwqD84Q_AUICCgB&biw=1280&bih=890&dpr=1

There's a fuse too. Don't forget to check it.

From an 810? Or did you mean L28E? I'd list all of the parts and describe how it worked. Lots of mystery otherwise.

I wonder if you could spray the engine with soapy water and make bubbles like you do for a hole in a tire. I tried some of that plumber's leak finder solution to try to find an exhaust leak but things got hot too fast and it just dried up. The fog machine seems to work for many different purposes. To CO's point on the open valves letting pressure out, the closed valve cylinders will have dead-air no-flow zones in the runners. Probably worthwhile to let the fog flow for a while to let any small leaks let the fog flow in eventually. You could miss a small leak if you're n a hurry.

Wise? What does wise have to do with old sports cars? The ECU's aren't tunable or chippable or modifiable. You'd need standalone if you want to play around with tuning. Most people seem to go with Megasquirt due to cost but there are many more options, some every expensive.

I see. I like the idea of just sacrificing a nut over taking a chance on the stud. I bought a wrecking yard manifold as a spare and spent a lot of time and effort removing a broken stud and that was on the bench, with a torch, and PB Blaster, and a hole drilled through to get the Blaster in behind, and good leverage. It was kind of incredible how stuck if t was. It would only budge when the manifold was hot. I wonder if a cutoff wheel would be easier. Cut up what you can reach and chisel off the rest. Or maybe a different type of nut-buster. I don't know what's out there. I still have a nut stuck on a stud that I use as a bolt on my currently in-use exhaust manifold. It all went together right in the beginning but later the nut and stud came out together. I just use them in the hole they came out of that way.

No offense, I understood the first paragraph - you used a nut splitter on an exhaust stud to avoid breaking a stud. That sounds like a great recommendation for anyone who is worried about that and seems wothwhile But I can't get a meaning out of the second paragraph. I'm sure the thought was clear in your head but it didn't make it in to the words. This sentence just twisted my brain - "I am pretty sure the back the middle one with a swivel joint and extension with the windshield washer door up you could do, the other may be more of a challenge".

You might have mentioned it, but where are you doing your searching? A few people here frequent the Bring-a-Trailer site, I think someone might have mentioned it in your other thread, If you're looking nation-wide that seems like a good core to your searching. Here's one that seems to fit your profile. http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/06/no-reserve-running-project-1973-datsun-240z/ Edit - except that it's so old that the eBay ad expired. But still...

The bushings are plastic from Nissan, although there is a brass parts store fix used often. You can get them from Nissan still, try you local dealer. Can't remember what year your car is so no recommendations on what might be wrong. Check the bottom bushing also. They crack and chip. Did you take the transmission apart? It's possible to lock the gears up when it's put back together. You didn't say if the lever moved and nothing happened or if the lever won't move. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/32855h1010 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/31 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/32

Seems like you're in that conflict zone between wanting something now and getting what you want. I'm pretty sure that there are other 75-78 280Z's out there somewhere for less money, that could be driven while you work and modify, or restore. 1976 isn't really a popular restoration year, and that one is pretty worn. The dash looks shot, and it looks like a frame rail might be peeling off or a floor pan has been tacked in. Can't tell what the big seam is in one of the pictures. It looks like a decent candidate for a modification project, but $5000 seems steep. If you're really planning a full restoration, the early cars seem to give more return for effort, and have more resto parts available. 280Z resto parts are hard to find.

You offered good advice. But it was already mentioned. And you only have two posts and apparently either ignored or didn't put the effort in to considering what other members have contributed. That's not good. Just trying to show a new member how this forum works. Generally, people here don't talk over what other members have already contributed. They add to it. It's one of the more civil and considerate forums on the internet. I used the computer to count the mentions of the word "ground". To be sure I was correct. Welcome to the forum.

Good news. The inside of the pump can get rusty or corroded if any water got in to the fuel and it sat for a while. If you're on a tight budget there are factory EFI pumps in old Ford trucks and other cars, like BMW's, that will do the job, that you can get from a wrecking yard for cheap. But the parts store Airtex pumps seem to be pretty durable too. Racer X, "ground" was mentioned 10 times on page 1, and shown in an illustration. Just saying...it's there.

No offense, but there's a lot of distance between your first post and the one above. You already have a custom Toyota engine to Nissan transmission adapter, but you're concerned about a "transmission bracket" and don't know how to get an LSD in to your car? The elements of the story are discordant. Why don't you just use a IJZ 5 speed, the R154? (I had to do a Google to be sure about the R154. Not a 1JZ expert). How about a picture of the adapter plate, mounted up? We all love a good piece of machining.

Austin Hoke was working on one - http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/product-development/ http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-350z-6-speed-adapter He might behind schedule, I don't see it as a finished product. " I still hope to finish the project by the end of summer 2015. " http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/

A more correct name for it would probably be "scavenging" system, based on what appears to be its design purpose. The fresh air is meant to move gases out of the engine internals and in to the intake system. PCS? I found a few interesting articles out there, one about choosing a different PCV valve after modifying an engine for more power. It didn't make a lot of sense since the crankcase volume was the same. Not clear to me how the desired flow rate is determined. If it's based on blowby then we should all be changing our PCV valves as engine wear increases blowby. I tried to find some old PCV valves yesterday to examine but I've removed them all and put them n a container somewhere, from the last time i wondered about them. I was pretty sure that the spring was on the bottom, or crankcase side and the pintle sat on top of it. Which doesn't fit CO's description, since then gravity is all that keeps the valve open at low vacuum. That's why the thought about vertical versus horizontal came to mind. All of these years of diagnosing people's engine problems but we rarely say "check your PCV valve". Who knows.

I was going to post this in CO's "relocating the PCV valve" thread but it's fallen off the "Activity" page and I can't find it. Have y'all noticed that there is a wide variety of part numbers for PCV valves but they mostly look identical? Why is that? Why doesn't one size fit all? And will a PCV valve specified for a vertical application work the same if it's located horizontally? Is there a test for PCV valve function that is ore sophisticated than blowing air through it and shaking it to make sure it rattles? Why is there a spring only on one side of the internal valve? When does the valve close (it is a "valve" after all)? Just wondering if relocating the PCV to the side of the valve cover is as easy as it seems. I've pondered these things in the past.and realized some things but mostly ignore the valve entirely.

It might also indicate a clogged PCV valve. That's where the extra air gets in when you remove the filler cap. The booster hose though, that's a surprise since that would be a huge amount of extra unmetered air. Should have seen an effect there. Odd. Did you remove it at the manifold or at the booster? You might also have extra fuel being supplied, since it didn't lean out and die. Once you fix the leaks, if that's the problem, it will be running rich. Your AFM might have been messed with. You likely have a much longer path ahead of you, since you're learning in the fly. Wait 'til we start talking about the BCDD. The one thing that's confirmed though is that your system is way out of whack. On a properly working EFI system, you can get an idle speed increase just from removing the tiny hose at the manifold that feeds the AC control bottle. And removing the filler cap will kill the engine.

"y"? Seriously, the w and the h were too much effort? You need to look under your new Z car. There is no "subframe" to swap. The 350Z diff is shorter. The 350Z transmission is built for a V6, not a straight 6, it's not a bolt-in. It doesn't fit correctly. The 350Z parts are, for the most part, useless for any Z car built before 1984. If you have a smashed up 350Z that you're trying to salvage from, there's nothing there that's of significant value for your 78 280Z. You should stop focusing on the 350Z. There's no value.