Zed Head

Should have put this in your first post. You did the classic "selective information disclosure" in your first post and sent everyone off on a path they would not have followed if they had known.

When you jump it you're putting outside power directly to the cable ends. Kind of sounds like dirty cable end to battery post connections. When the current from the starter motor (lots of amps) hits them the corrosion heats up and expansion opens the connection. Then it cools down and closes and will pass enough current to run lights and things. Very common, many starters have been replaced because of it.

You didn't even tell people what year car you're working on. Had to go dig to find it. Is it the 1972 shown on your profile? I only see 5 wire ends, of unknown colors (stripes matter), except for the black one. Can't be too hard. Good luck.

Orange classic 72. But he has urethane on the front. Somebody tell him. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-183/

I have a memory of there being two short bolts and two long ones, of the four across the top. Maybe you got a short one in a long hole. And, if it is the right bolt but it is stripped, maybe there are usable threads left at the bottom of the hole, that a longer bolt will grab.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm

I've used JB Weld on a pinhole leak on a Pathfinder. It was still seeping as I pressed the glob on to the hole. Worked for a few years then I removed it and reapplied. If it had been completely dry probably would have worked forever. They even wrote up a procedure for it. https://www.jbweld.com/projects/gas-tank-repair

That picture you show is from the tail housing, not the front case. It's the "reverse check sleeve". Four speed front cases/bells will work also. You might have to drill a new hole for the reverse switch. Easier to find a four speed case.

A strange story. The damage is already done. https://www.keprtv.com/news/local/kennewick-family-changes-stance-on-vaccine-after-getting-covid-19

Might be the wrong bolts for the holes. I think there might three different lengths. Found a thread - Post 80 on...

Found one of the old MM threads. Post 36 on.

Pretty sure that it was realized a while ago that most motor mounts come from the same place. You can get them at your local parts store. The good ones come with the nuts tacked on. The others just have holes and you have to supply hardware. Might be worth a trip to the local store to see what's what. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engine-parts---mounts/engine-mounts/engine-mount/31470ece703c/v/a/6635/automotive-car-1976-nissan-280z?q=motor+mount'

Did you confirm that the ground is good? Did you try the key in the ignition to see if the buzzer works?

The description is hard to read. Very clunky and awkward. Trying too hard I think. Interior, AC, interior again, more AC, more interior. The cabin features seating that is said to have been recovered in black with a matching dashboard, door panels, and replacement carpets. Amenities include ARA air conditioning, a refurbished center console, three-point seat belts, an analog clock, and a push-button AM/FM radio. The air conditioning is said to have been recharged using Enviro-Safe hydrocarbon-based refrigerant, and cracking is noted on the dashboard and is depicted in the photo gallery below.

His machinist told him he needed 0.080". That's the bigger issue, I think. What is the guy doing.

Connect them to ground. One will make the door open/key-in-ignition buzzer buzz annoyingly, the other should make the dome light light. The dome light should also light just by pressing one side of it. Although that's a good way to destroy the plastic cover. They tend to be brittle.

I wrote some stuff then did a Google and realized that there's something odd about your problem. 0.120" doesn't even seem to be OEM. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2041A

The new distributor will certainly fix the vacuum advance issue. Not so sure about the other problems. Of course, you could also have a centrifugal advance problem too, so that might help. Anyway, if you have a manual transmission car then you can just use one of the pickups in the distributor and let the other one ride along. They will both put out a voltage pulse but only one will be used. One step on a long path. But it's a good hike. Good luck.

So you're saying he's got a chance?! He could probably just connect a wire and if it runs it's right. Right? If he has a manual transmission. The real question might be "what does 'acting up' mean?"

$41,000. And the paint doesn't even match the code!

I thought the three-wire plug from the distributor would be for a dual pickup distributor. He should able to just use one pickup, right? Find the common wire and use one of the others. Take the cap off and see how many pickups there are.

Might be in here. Engine Electrical chapter. Three wires is a good place to start studying wiring. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

Has anyone seen an oil pan like this before? Side hole. (Looks like T/C rod washers are on backward...don't tell anyone).

There's a fuse.