Zed Head

I would change the title. Many people want the ZX distributor and module to replace either a bad 280Z ignition module or to swap over from points. Not many people swap to a 280Z distributer from points. CA Datsun probably just resold a reman that he bought from Crown or whatever name is on the side of your box there. Doesn't mean it's bad, just means that he made a markup on it. Edit - it's a good deal at your price. Comes with cap and pedestal. Many don't. Is there a rotor under that cap? Plug and play... https://zcardepot.com/distributor-electronic-ignition-reman-280zx-79-81.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6IX446b02QIVl2p-Ch0uXwf9EAkYASABEgI6NfD_BwE

That's a 280ZX distributor, with the module/matchbox. Not a bad price. Is the mounting pedestal for a 280ZX or 280Z? Reman'ed in the USA. What's the brand? Looks like a Crown something.

That's one of the odd things about the mustache bar. Nissan shows the best picture of it in the Rear Axle and Suspension chapter. But it's not really a suspension component. So tightening up the mustache bar bushings won't really tighten up the suspension, except for stopping the diff from flopping around during spirited driving. I wonder if Nissan kept that solid bushing from 7/71 on or if they switched back to a looser one later. The early cars had the forward mounted diff, which caused its own half-shaft vibration problems.

Won't you end up with polyurethane in the same places as if you bought an aftermarket polyurethane replacement? The polyurethane replacements would probably work great if they just made them from a lower durometer (softer) polyurethane. And polyurethane is generally very durable, as durable as rubber. A person could make a mold from an aftermarket PU bushing then just pour a softer PU. With a mold you could try several durometers. By the way, there's no need to burn out the old rubber. If you just heat the mustache bar ends the surface of the old rubber will soften and you can easily press it out as a chunk.

Here's a picture of where the two lines are on the distributor mount that you can match up. From a guy with carbs, but a similar no-start problem.

It does sound like the timing might be advanced. There are two lines on the adjustment plate that might get it close if you don't have a timing light. You can also compare the edge of the reluctor "star" wheel with the metal strip on the pickup coil and see where the damper pulley mark is. You said that you can hear air hissing thorough a hose and it looks like your PCV hose might be loose. All of the hoses need to be connected. The crankcase is connected to the intake manifold and will cause a vacuum leak if it's not sealed.

I haven't paid a ton of attention to this thread so maybe it's been referenced already. Might not even be the right carbs. But there are 11 pages of carb stuff in the 1973 TSB, with lots of float setting guidance, and even modifications. Copied a couple of sample pictures, below. Haven't really touched a carb since I rebuilt an 800 Theromoquad on a 340 in a Dodge Dart Sport. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/5-service-documents/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128651-z-and-zx-parts/?tab=comments#comment-1201646

I was thinking about moving to Oklahoma. Now, not so much. Say it ain't so

Just noticed that they don't mention "Big Mike" at all in the eBay ad. I'm losing my faith in the Discovery channel car shows....

I had a brand new Motorsport Auto AFM have a problem with the contact switch. Left me stranded, until I rigged up a bypass wire using a PO's leftover bypass wire. A hair or a piece of lint or something must have got stuck between the contacts. I used a match book striker to clean up the contacts and have been golden ever since. Although, I've had several other AFM's in there in between. It happens. Might be why Nissan got rid of it in 1978. You can check the AFM contact by turning the key to Run/On and opening the vane. You should hear the pump run and/or the relay under the steering wheel click. Easy check.

The ads are showing up where there are large blocks of text. Like your first post. It's not you, it's Google Adsense. Your problem is very typical of the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM not closing. Usually this is due to low air flow through the AFM. Are all of the hoses properly connected to the intake system? PCV hoses and all others? Are you using a 1975 AFM? A 1978 AFM might not have the switch adjusted properly or might not have it at all. Open up the new AFM and check the fuel pump contact switch. You can bend the rod with a pair of pliers to make it close at lower or higher air flow. Move the vane and you'll see how the very small contact points open and close. They control power to the fuel pump relay.

Just to clarify, I did not do much to find Mr. Monise's shop. Just plugged "240Z montclair ca" in to Google. Then looked at the results on the first page. Montclair, 909, and Lotus all showed up in one result. As they do in the eBay ads. This is why we have car clubs... https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=Ke6pWov_E47WjwOv1ZSoBA&q=240z+montclair+ca&oq=240z+montclair+ca&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1803.7897.0.8153.21.19.2.0.0.0.153.1324.16j3.19.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.20.1248...0j0i131k1j0i22i30k1j33i160k1j33i21k1.0.ltolbSJ4bF0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-69-70-240Z-D-HUBCAPS-1st-Generation/123021432102?epid=17015123575&hash=item1ca4a61526:g:ogoAAOSwBU1aihik&vxp=mtr&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

Just to tie the threads together. Will be interesting to see what the reserve is, although, based on the $80K number they talked about in the show, it probably won't hit it. Surprisingly little about the "gas" part. No engine pictures or HP numbers or road numbers or, really, any performance data at all. Just shiny green. Makes you wonder if it even runs well. At least the auction ends after the 2nd part of the two-part show.

The internet is a scary place. I was on my phone and Google showed the last three searches that I had done on my desk top computer. The only connection is my email account which is Hotmail. It's all connected man, and anybody can figure out almost anything about someone else. https://www.mapquest.com/us/california/frank-monise-motors-279360705

I wouldn't worry about the tach needle then. If you're in a hurry you might break your post in to small pieces and repost. Can't read it 'cause of the ads.

Scotty Rocket is a man of few words who does not keep his threads going. But it looks like he has a damaged 78 280Z he's trying to fix. Scotty, the 79 280ZX won't help you much except for the front struts, hubs and brakes. I think that they might transplant, but not even 100% on that. On the other hand, you could put your 78 drivetrain in the 79.

Sorry, I ran out of time to read what you wrote before Google stuck an ad on your page. But I notice that you mentioned a "dead spot" as a reason to buy a new starter, and didn't really describe what you meant by "won't start". Might be a clue there. People have had iffy ignition switches. I had one in a 1978 car. Fixed it by recrimping the S connection. Describe how it doesn't start. Does it make noise, or does the engine just spin and nothing happens? The tachometer needle jumping around suggests a bad electrical connection, or electrical nose from your jump box. Maybe disconnect the jump box and see if the tach needle still jumps around.

Monocoque/unibody = no frame

Funny to see how all of these marketing things come together. On F n' L they were talking about how the budget ended up over $80,000 because all of the parts had to be shipped over from Japan. Just working the Japan angle, big-time. But Big Mike says in his video that they used "AZC" suspension. AZC is not in Japan. He spent 30 seconds of an 8 minute video talking about how they CNC'ed the vent emblem on the side of the car to show "GM", for Gas Monkey. Never did see the car drive. Looks great, but not sure it goes. Have to wait for next week's episode! They got me. I'm a critic. It is a nice-looking car, and more power to Big Mike. Make that money.

Clicked on to the Fast n' Loud show and some guy called Big Mike, from the "tuner" world, is apparently their 280Z build expert. Pretty sure I remember a 2+2 from a short while ago, I might have even posted a link. Can't remember. 1975 280Z. Anyway, weird that they chose a 75 280Z instead of a 240Z. They're playing up the whole SAE versus metric, USA versus foreign, thread pattern BS even though modern domestics engines are all metric. I'm sure that all of those LSX engines are metric. Sad. Have to see if they do more than just drive the car around the block.

It will expand wherever the air has the most leverage. The broad dent across the flat bottom will probably pop up, but the corner dents, not so much. Might be possible to overblow it then beat/finesse the overexpanded parts back down to where they're supposed to be. Then there's work-hardening, which makes dent removal even harder. Some kinks will probably never come out. With a pressure regulator you might be able to get it to start to correct and with some well placed blows on the corner high spots get it to a serviceable level.

Doesn't the parts CD show something? Fiche.

Wick Humble calls them castellated. The Google shows shapes that fit. Works.

That is a very common problem with the 280Z's. For some reason they tend to run lean in the mid-range. Maybe they were tuned to the edge for emissions, and the fuel has changed, or maybe the AFMs or ECUs circuitry has drifted over the years. But many do it. It seems more AFM related, in my experience. Different AFMs behave differently. But, the cure is simple: add resistance to the coolant temperature sensor circuit. Blue aka 240260280 supplied a writeup on the atlanticz.ca web site years ago. Many of us put the rheostat in the cabin so that we can tune on the fly. You can run wire through the firewall to the bullet connectors. The coolant temperature sensor is the one with the two prong injector style connection, not the single prong. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Your fuel pressure is correct, it's actually a little high at idle. 28-30 is more normal. But 36 when there's no intake vacuum is right.