Zed Head

The wiring diagram says it's in the cabin. Probably under the dash by the EFI relay. There's been a lot of talk about it but I've never seen anyone actually use it.

Here's the post that mentions it. You might have the switch that you can jump or might just have an ECU that will drop fuel by 6% if you short the pins. Keep it in mind.

I was reading Dave WM's Pikes Peak thread and realized that you might have an altitude switch. Keep it in mind if you can't get the FPR change to work, or try it before hand if you don't want to swap rails.

It does say "or", for sure. The history of Dexron doesn't offer any clarity either. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON I will probably just use Synchromesh synthetic fluid in any manual transmission I have in the future. Seems like some genius fluids engineer created the ultimate fluid and it works for everything.

The ZXT 5 speed was made by Borg Warner. There is a bunch of discussion about the ATF spec around the interwebs. The ATF spec is correct, from what I've gathered. Some people suggest that the needle bearings might not get proper lubrication using the thicker fluid. I have a Ford 5 speed with Ford ATF, Mercon V, as the spec'ed fluid. It had shifting problems though so I switched to Pennzoil Synchromesh. Lower viscosity than 75W-90 but higher than ATF. It's been great and fixed the problem but the Ford guys say I'm going to ruin it if I don't use Ford product in it (that's what all Ford guys say though). That was 30,000 miles ago. Use this in the Google and there's a bunch - "borg warner t5 transmission fluid type".

No, more that you guys just have a better feel and familiarity with the equations. I had a vague feeling so plotted some numbers to be sure, but generally, practice makes better. Thought you guys might verify or have an opinion. Not one of my fortes. It was a good reason to rummage around the internet though. https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/electrical/lecture/parallel_circuits.htm#:~:text=The sum of the currents,1%2FR3 %2B... https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/electrical/lecture/series_circuits.htm https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/electrical/lecture/ohms_law/ohms_law.htm https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/electrical/lecture/combo_circuits.htm

The seal is not good. I used a steel bolt on my OReilly Auto radiator. Drilled a hole in it so it worked like the plastic ones. It's surprising how few options there are for those plugs, and all of the options are poor quality.

I think that using a parallel circuit flattens the curve, whereas a series circuit moves the whole curve up. The ECU expects a certain curve rate. Probably create new problems. CO and SteveJ probably draw charts in their heads on this kind of stuff. @Captain Obvious @SteveJ

This seems to fit somehow...

I got on the Google and found that you can buy them already made. Dang. More fun to make my own. https://www.carguygarage.com/accessories/decor/lighted-signs/billet-aluminum-distributor-lamp?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8fr7BRDSARIsAK0Qqr4x-kbhC6fU3Oxx0Ri-g0S_bB_WkhvBNxZwOSFqrWym0d6nBvDAOf4aAjAXEALw_wcB

The lamp shade looks like an air filter! C'mon man!

The fluid expands a lot though when it's warm. So, do it when the engine and transmission are cool.

Good point. I was thinking in terms of unmetered air not intake manifold vacuum. Another reason to just get an FPR that is in spec.

COVID-19 is spreading in the WH like a virus.

Watching the news about the crazy plot to kidnap the Governor of Michigan and noticed the lamp behind the guy talking. Check out the plugs in the base.

I've never seen a sticker like the one on yours. Might be a replacement or rebuilt.

He's in CA where they do the rolling 15 and 25 mph tests. The idle air bypass probably won't help much, I'd guess. He's so close, I'd bet that an FPR that has correct pressure would get him in spec. 40 psi is 10% high. Whenever I worked on my car to pass emissions (idle only) I would get CO and HC numbers that were much higher than he's getting and could get them to drop with small changes in fuel pressure (I had an adjustable FPR). He just needs a tiny change to get his CO numbers down I think. Tiny. Maybe, in the same vein as the idle air bypass, he could just open up one of the vacuum ports on the manifold. Maybe the one for the heater controls. The FPR is probably more effective though.

This was meant as a joke. Thanks AK for clarifying.

Great news. Curious...was it low? Asking for future reference. Your problem doesn't really fit fluid change but might fit low level. Regardless, your transmission will be much happier with that fluid. On to the next problem. There are threads about the speedo connection O-rings. Can't find them right now but they do exist.

You could have drilled a hole in the bottom, filled it with propane and lit it, like a potato cannon. Wearing eye protection of course. 😵

A 78 rail with regulator would swap right over, bolt-on. It's actually a better rail it has fewer hose connections. But you should be able to change the FPR without removing the rail. Cut the hoses to get it off and slide the hoses back and forth to get it on. But, again, if you have the old hoses on your 77 it might be a good time to change them, so the 78 rail would be a good option. Always more work to do and decisions to make.

10% is the key that most use.

Make sure that your gauge is good, maybe doublecheck with a different one. But, yes, pressure is supposed to be about 36.3 (actually 2.5 bar, converted).

No offense, but how do you define "bad"? Be careful with that spray bar. They're fragile.

How do cylinder pressures look?