Zed Head

Here's another good use of the Johns Hopkins data. The graphic is not so dramatic as others, easier to get a feel for what's happening. It would be good if somebody could use this form of illustration and animate it, showing growth and spread from the beginning. https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2020/03/16/816707182/map-tracking-the-spread-of-the-coronavirus-in-the-u-s

This web site also has some good analysis and explanation. Here is today's. The US is stuck at about 2,000 deaths per day. 54,247 total as of now. "Opening up" is not going to cause the numbers to drop. https://www.mdmetrix.com/covid-19-projections Update for April 25, 2020 New York remains the only state with data signals indicating a stable descent path for reported daily deaths from COVID-19 (now at 15 days).The U.S. as a whole has left its exponential growth phase but has remained in a 20-day plateau phase. We’ll continue to monitor for data signals that would indicate a transition for the US onto a descent path.Encouragingly, there are now 15 states (California, Florida, Indiana, Illinois, Kansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Missouri, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee, Washington, and Wisconsin) with overlapping data signals indicating they have left their exponential growth phase. We’ll continue to update the death curve charts, and will monitor whether these states show signals of improving further (entering a descent phase) or deteriorate (resuming an exponential growth phase). —Dr. Dan Low, Chief Medical Officer of MDmetrix

I don't know the mechanical pumps well. Airtex makes some good products. Carter has been around for a while. The carb'ed guys would know better. If you go electric then you need to think about safety shutoffs and proper pressure regulation, and wiring and other odds and ends. It's simple in concept but takes some work. There are threads on the site about problems trying to go electric. There's always something... Or, and if you can't return that pump it might be worth a shot, maybe adjust the arm. You seem to think that it works if it gets proper stroke. Maybe the first part of the stroke is dead and if you get the arm closer to the eccentric it will work.

I bumped up my idle RPM by about 100 and it made a difference. Might get you an extra 1/2 volt at idle.

Seems like you have it narrowed down pretty well. A bad aftermarket product is not uncommon. You could just return it and get a different brand. Delphi looks like a run of the mil auto parts store brand. No offense. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

Since the car is new to you and might have had many previous owners I would give everything a thorough look to define what exactly you have and how it is set up. Might not even be an L26, it could be an L24. Check the stamping and castings on the block and head. Might have the wrong heads on it, we've seen people create low compression engines by using the wrong heads just to get an engine running so they could sell the car. Could be that the cam timing is off, that would have a big effect. Clogged exhaust, smashed exhaust pipes, who knows. Plus, you said you measured "compression" and checked timing, but did not give nay numbers. The numbers are important. Also, "timing' is usually just the initial timing. But does the advance mechanism work? You might be running 7 degrees advance at 4000 RPM. You can check that with a timing light. And you didn't mention checking or adjusting valve lash. That is the very first item in the Tuneup chapter. Very important. Just some thoughts. Make a list and start filling it up with numbers and observations, and post them here. No offense, but you really have not done a lot, there's a bunch more that will help. That's good news, there's hope. Plus it's fun.

This is the bothersome part. I'm not an SU guy. But the float bowls should not be siphoning empty with the filter's emptying.

There are other things you could check before dropping the tank. The Pertronix is one of them. You could also try an electric pump in the engine bay as a short test. Another thought. You might be able to keep the filter full by adding a length of hose in front of the filter that is higher than the filter. It would depend on how strong the siphon effect is. Or you could add a check valve in the engine bay. Either way, don't be surprised if the problem is still there after the tank cleaning. I don't think your symptoms really support a fuel supply problem. Your "finger" pumping filled the filter in 9 stokes. That's a pretty powerful pump action. I would focus on the float bowls, not the filter. See if they have fuel. There's a thread about a float tuning tool that actually works like a sight glass. You can see the fuel level in the bowls. If you're planning to tune your carbs it might be worth doing first. You could probably rig up a temporary "sight glass" also. Just another view.

That's what CO said also. I had forgotten if it was stuck up or just inactivated. My lock worked great, I just didn't use it much. They key point I was trying to make was that my key action was not smooth and easy like the ignition, glove box, or doors. It took some fiddling to get the key to turn. And if the sticker is on the glove box door it will be a clue.

A super nerdy paper about the pandemic from the uber-nerd bill Gates. The first few paragraphs, at least, are readable and worth reading. I just started reading it. It was published yesterday. https://www.gatesnotes.com/Health/Pandemic-Innovation

But wait...the key code should be on a sticker on the inside of glove box door. So, one more key if so. I had a 50/50 chance on the hatch lock.... I qualified it, so I'm taking a break even.

Posted way back about about Brett Crozier and the USS Theodore Roosevelt as an unintended casualty of the COVID-19 fiasco. Here's recent news, and an article I had missed. I think that Esper might be cast from the same mold as Modly, or worse, so who knows what the final decision will be, but at least there is still some structure to the world. https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/politics/2020/04/24/navy-recommends-reinstatement-fired-carrier-captain-brett-crozier/3023380001/ https://www.usatoday.com/story/opinion/2020/04/07/navy-fired-defamed-my-friend-over-coronavirus-letter-column/2960627001/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Esper

Here's a country of 211 million people, with a few population centers similar to New York City, where they did not try to flatten the curve. Brazil. https://twnews.us/us-news/brazil-becoming-virus-outbreak-center-as-hospitals-buckle

I had to jiggle the key in my lock and make sure that the button was fully up to get the key to turn. All the key does is lock the button in the upright position. Makes it impossible to press down. I think, as I recall from my 76. For sure though, you have to hit the right spot to get the key to turn.

Not necessarily That's why I posted the plot. If you want a big number get a big number. Read that boat article though. Don't forget that all of the charging current has to pass through that single white wire. If you use it all. Here's a 10si plot, with some discussion. Get a Mazda alternator - https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/a21719317/mazda-confirms-2019-miata-gets-more-power-higher-redline/ http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/powermaster-alternator.49477/page-2

I had a problem with a weak ignition module, the engine would only start with fluid. Then it would run fine. That was on an EFI car though. I had done some work and left two spark plugs disconnected so I had a clue about what the problem might be. Only you know how the engine behaves when it restarts, or how it behaves when it stalls, but the only good reason for a no-start that is fuel-related would be if the float bowls emptied. Just offering ideas. If it fires right up and runs well on the first shot of fluid you have to wonder why it didn't start on the fuel that was in the bowls. More details!..... What type of ignition are you running?

Could also be a weak spark problem. The empty filter might be a red herring. Time to fish...

I looked for an output plot and found one in this article. It's actually a pretty good overview, just boat-based. https://shop.pkys.com/Installing-a-High-Power-marine-alternator-on-your-boat_b_111.html

Are you going to swap to the multi groove belt? Higher output means more work on the pulleys. I think that to "do it right" and avoid slippage you'll want to take a good look at the drive system. Of course you'll only need it if you actually pull that amount of amperage. Some of those loads are intermittent and could just use battery power, in between. It would be interesting to see how much capacity is really needed. Many people upgrade based on overall output when what they really want is idle output.

You didn't really say if you had a problem with the engine starting. Sometimes people think things but don't actually write them down. The drain back to the tank from your filter is not surprising. It's higher than the tank. The engine will start with what's in the float bowls and the filter will refill in a second. I counted 9 clicks so that would be 18 revolutions of the engine. Lets' say 20, for the math. At 1200 RPM, that would be one second to refill the filter. So, is this an actual operational problem or a "this bothers me" problem?

There are only two videos, the first two you describe, then your voltmeter needle moving with your flashers after those. But I get it now. Still, wondering about the mounting of the pump. https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-pump-spacer-plate-240z-260z

The videos work fine on my Windows 10 machine. The second one shows the filter body filing with gasoline,with a clicking noise in the background. The first video shows the pump arm moving on the eccentric as somebody spins the engine. Can you connect the two videos with some words? Were you moving the pump arm by hand in the second video? And you didn't show the actually mounting of the pump. I know that there are typically phenolic spacers that sit under the pump. Maybe your pump is too far from the eccentric. That's my at-the-moment guess. The pump is sitting too far from the eccentric.

Exposure. This is where the ideas come from. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/apr/24/revealed-leader-group-peddling-bleach-cure-lobbied-trump-coronavirus

Have you spun the engine with the valve cover off? See how far the cam moves the pump arm. You said that you can pump it by hand so the diaphragm must be okay. Take a picture of the pump on the engine. Maybe you're missing a part or have the wrong spacer or something.