Pomorza

Hello all I'm planning on updating the gauges in my Z to something more modern and a bit more relaible. Does anyone know the resistance range of the fuel sending unit? I know I can replace them with something new but if I could make the stock one work it would mean less work. Thanks mates Jan

Guys and gals Thank you guys for all the suggestions. This weekend I pulled all the plugs out one by one and examined them. All but one had an orange color to them (#1 was white). The #4 plug had a lot of carbon deposit on it which I cleaned up using wire brush. Rechecked all the gaps. I also richened the mixture since it was running lean - based on my wideband readings. Started the car up and it runs like a top. Thanks again Jan

Thanks for the reply guys, Wade: Wouldn't a shot ring (or rings) cause smoke of some sort as they aren't sealed correctly?

Hell all This past morning I went out to start the Z. Outside temp was about 90 - its Arizona its hot. Car started fine but it runs on five cylinders for the first 30 or so seconds and then is fine. Anyone have any ideas before I go head long into figuring this out? It did it once more when I started it this past afternoon - after sitting for ~7 hours. Again cleared up after a few seconds. Doens't seem to lack power. Thanks Jan

Virto I use ngk bpr6es on my Z. They seem to run just fine. I've used NGK's since I got the car back in 09' and haven't had an issue. I also opted to use NGK wires I got off amazon a few months back, blues ones. They work quite well. For what I understand from a few sites I've been on recently the -11 type plugs are for better emissions purposes more than anything else. I don't use them personally but I don't think it'll hurt. Hope that helps Jan

Dltalfa The oil is used to cool the shocks and add lubrication or so I've been told. While its not needed - as John expressed - if you have the whole assemblies out just fill them up. I used 10W30 oil and it works just fine.

A bit of an update. Was driving the Z around today. The noise happens only at ~3k. If I hold it at 3k it will make the noise but its pretty much has to be dead on the perfect RPM to get the said BUZZ. I'm thinking something might of come lose on the exhaust - maybe one of the heat sheilds. One of my exhuast liners was loose when I redid the manifold gasket, I'm hoping this didn't fall in somehow. Will take a nice long look on Saturday. Thanks Jan

Lads This past weekend I did an oil change as well as run about 1/3 of a can of seafoam through the intake - smoked like an old ocean liner. Anyhow since then I've been hearing this odd BUZZ everytime I shift above 3k. It does it on deceleration only and only when the car is at temperature. Any ideas? Car doesn't seem to be running any worse. No coolant in oil or vise versa. Thanks Jan

Mates Store sells two different clutches one that's for the 225mm flywheel and the other for the 240mm one (or so says their computer). I'm assuming the bigger clutch would go with the 2+2 correct? Just making sure before I fork over cash. Thanks Jan

Mates I've decided to replace the clutch in my Z, as well shifting is becoming a bit tricky sometimes and I'm almost postive it slipped last evening. Question is this, would getting a stage one (Exedy) clutch be worth it. I'm don't do any racing of anykind - as well I only have one car and I don't need to break something - but I do have a lead foot. Opinions, suggestions are welcome Secondly, since I'm doing a clutch I decied that I might as well get the old flywheel machined. What is the best/easiest way to remove the flywheel without using air tools - as I don't have any? Thank Jan

Thank you guys for the answer. I'll look into all of it this weekend. Thanks again Jan

Gland nuts? Care to elaborate where/what this is? Thanks

Mates For the past three years (~14k miles) I've been running Eibach springs and blue tokico struts on my Z, which I put on myself along with new bushings everywhere.. A couple of weeks ago I noticed that when I went over speed bumps - which I hate doing - there would be a noticeable squeak from the suspension. I took the Z in for a tire balance the other day and was informed that the struts need to be replaced as they are "leaking." I could not find said leak when I was doing the brakes this past weekend. Well today I noticed that when I go over said speed bumps there's a noticeable tick (its annoying as hell) coming from the rear passenger's side. I'm getting the car in the air this weekend but has anyone ever experienced such things? It does it after the bump (as in the when the suspension decompresses from said "bump") Secondly, what is the life space on shocks on Z's? Thank mates Jan

Mr. EuroDat, Thank you very much for the part numbers. I'm going to take things apart next weekend and see where things are leaking from. My shifter is quite firm - makes a distinct "CLICK" - when I put it in gear, which I really like, so I'm going to leave that be. I will do the seals and take lots of pictures and post here when done. Thank again Jan

Hey gang I had my tires rotated this afternoon at my local mechanic. While they had the car in the air they noticed that the rear output seal, speedo seal and the shifter seal were all leaking trans fluid. Does anyone happen to know where one could procure these seals? Thanks Jan

Mate, I run a 160* tstat in my Z. Even on the hottest days out here in the desert (so 115) the Z rarely ever gets above 170 and that's on a stock radiator. That being said, when I ran the stock 180 degree thermostat in the summer the Z would creep up to 200 occasionally. I'm pretty sure there's nothing wrong with running that warm but I don't like aluminum to get that warm. According to the service manual for tropical areas - so I'd guess like Florida in the middle of summer - they advise you run a 170* thermostate. Since they don't seem to sell these anymore I chose the next best thing. That being said, if you're running stock fuel injection the computer will compensate for temperature until the car exceeds 158 (70 C) according to the FSM. I'd suspect that with your radiator this might occur so you would run richer and thus ruin whatever fuel economy you were counting on. I don't run stock EFI so I don't have this issue . Thanks Jan

mjr45 https://www.dropbox.com/s/5lox5pojhtzinzb/76circuit_COLOR.pdf That's a link to the full one, it should be a PDF which you can zoom into. If it doesn't work lemme know. Hope it helps Jan

Mjr45 For what I remember there is a ground from the EFI harness that goes directly to the battery. If you look at my batter in the photo below you can see there is a large black wire coming off the battery. That is the harness ground (EFI computer ground to be exact). I also included a colored wiring diagram for a 76, not sure if the 75 is the same but it can be used for reference. I know you said you weren't good at wiring so I gave you the best thing to start with, a diagram. Everything harness related on the diagram is in white and pretty much in the lower center. Take a look Hope that helps Jan 76circuit_COLOR.pdf

Hello all I was skimming the autometer site last night and stumbled upon this. Has anyone ever used these in a Z? They're a bit bigger then the stock pod gauges but I'm pretty sure you could transplant one into the other. Thanks Jan

Hello all Once again I have broken one of the three little plugs that sit atop the evap canister located on the passengers side (the large round black thing). This time around it was the one that vents the tank - or at least I think it does - the one that connects to the large steel fuel line looking thing. So question, is it possible to run the car without this? I know that the dizzy gets a vac line connected to it from it but other then that I can't see the car running any different. I would like to fix it - or get a new/used but at the moment I lack funds. Thank all Jan

Dirwin A five speed conversion is a rather good conversion to do if you're doing mostly highway driving. Its pretty much a swap and go type deal. For what I remember most if not all 5 speeds uptil they switched to the V6 motors will bolt right onto your car. The "best" transmissions you can get is from the 80's ZX (80-83 I believe - minus the turbo one apparently) - according to may - as it has better gear ratios. I've done two of these myself its really not the hard just time consuming - along with oil covered. While your in there I suggest you do the clutch, throwout bearing and pretty much anything else related the the clutch system - I've made the mistake of not swapping in a new clutch, three weeks later no more clutch. As for you oil problem. Two questions - what oil are you running and have you confirmed low pressure with a mechanical gauge? The stock Z gauges - while awesome - are 30+ years old and can read poorly after time. Hope that helps Jan

This past weekend I redid my exhaust manifold gasket. Well "while I was at it" if figured I might as well do the valve cover gasket and the thermostat housing gasket. And hell since I replaced the gasket on the manifold I might as well do the gaskets on the pipes. I have learned a few things with older cars, if its not broken I haven't looked at it yet. But in all reality I've come to the realization that I need to do ONE project at a time and once I finish that ONE I can move on. Its a hard lesson I learned when I owned my jeep - started by just replacing the water pump, ended up doing a timing chain - it was a fun experience and cost me an arm and a leg (along with a very pissed of father (I was 17 at the time)). Did it need to be done, um no it was fine, did I learn how to dismantle half an engine in one weekend...yes

If you pulled the oil pump off you have to bring the engine to TDC (it will look like THIS ) and then you reinstall the shaft like like THIS . If that is done the car should be "dead" on. Now make sure your distributor is lined up correctly and goes in nice and snug. If you pulled just the distributor off then its not installed correctly - from your post I'm assuming the oil pump came off too. Hope that helps Jan Here's another look at the motor at TDC just incase the first one is not clear enough (TADA)

Gentlemen and ladies This afternoon I pulled my exhaust manifold off to replace the gasket (if found the 5 leaks I had). Well the #1 exhaust liner is loose, I can move it around nicely in the port. Could this cause issues? I've seen people remove these but I don't feel like doing all that work if I can just leave it in there. Thanks Jan

So I measured both the voltage at the battery and the voltage going to the solenoid. According to my DMM the voltage at the battery was 12.56 and the voltage at the solenoid while turning the key was ~12.3. The car started during the afternoon without a problem. No idea, maybe my Z was just not in the mood to drive, it was Valentine's day after all Jan