Pomorza

Update: Ran both tests today. Took the car from my house up to my brothers (~3 miles way) to get the car to operating temperature. Arrived at my brother's place and the Z sat at 173. Let it idle for about 10 minutes and checked temperature again was now at 177. Step one, check the fan. Took a new paper, rolled it into a tube and attempted to stop fan. Fan nearly took newspaper AND my arm with it, so that would be a pass. Turned car off. Step 2. Tested pressure, hooked up pressure tester, took it up to 13 psi (per rating of cap) and check for leaks. Pressure kept steady at ~13 for about 15 minutes while I checked around. Step 3. Checked flow of radiator. Took off pressure tester and started the Z. Temp after sitting was 194. Two things I noticed. 1. The flow was amazing, the coolant was moving so fast from one side of the radiator to the other that it nearly came out of the damn radiator. Secondly the fan was ON, as it sounded like I had a messerschmitt sitting under my hood. Step 4. Drove car back home. After placing everything back to where it needed to be I closed the hood and drove back home. Even in the 100+ degree heat of Tucson the temp never exceeded 175. The fan was also on most of the drive home - as I could hear it. So, it seems that everything checks out in my cooling systems. I have the suspicion, that my fan wasn't on the day it over heated as it didn't seem that loud for what I remember. I don't know exactly how these fail - if its a gradual loss of function or if it can fail and not fail. Would like to hear your opinions. Also the coolant is coolant, nice and GREEN. The oil is still oil, dirty and in need of a change but its oil. Thanks Jan

Update: Ran both tests today. Took the car from my house up to my brothers (~3 miles way) to get the car to operating temperature. Arrived at my brother's place and the Z sat at 173. Let it idle for about 10 minutes and checked temperature again was now at 177. Step one, check the fan. Took a new paper, rolled it into a tube and attempted to stop fan. Fan nearly took newspaper AND my arm with it, so that would be a pass. Turned car off. Step 2. Tested pressure, hooked up pressure tester, took it up to 13 psi (per rating of cap) and check for leaks. Pressure kept steady at ~13 for about 15 minutes while I checked around. Step 3. Checked flow of radiator. Took off pressure tester and started the Z. Temp after sitting was 194. Two things I noticed. 1. The flow was amazing, the coolant was moving so fast from one side of the radiator to the other that it nearly came out of the damn radiator. Secondly the fan was ON, as it sounded like I had a messerschmitt sitting under my hood. Step 4. Drove car back home. After placing everything back to where it needed to be I closed the hood and drove back home. Even in the 100+ degree heat of Tucson the temp never exceeded 175. The fan was also on most of the drive home - as I could hear it. So, it seems that everything checks out in my cooling systems. I have the suspicion, that my fan wasn't on the day it over heated as it didn't seem that loud for what I remember. I don't know exactly how these fail - if its a gradual loss of function or if it can fail and not fail. Would like to hear your opinions. Thanks Jan

Thanks guys I'm pretty sure my system won't be "air" tight as the front cover has a lot of silicone where the waterpump is - it was eaten away by electrolysis. Ill check both tomorrow Thanks Jan

Thank lads I will confirm the diagnosis later this week. When the car is cold there is a bit of resistance in the fan, haven't tested it at operating temp just yet. I do have a question though, should I replace the stock clutch with a new one (which is roughly $50) or spend slightly more and get a dual speed electric fan? The one(s) I've looked at have a 1500 cfm rating on high, I don't know how that compares with a stock Z fan so suggestions are welcome. Thanks Jan

Guys This weekend was supposed to be wonderful. A group of friends and myself were going to meet up at a lake and have a wonderful camping trip. Well as expected there were issues from the start. On the way to said lake I forgot some things at home and decided to head back. As I drive into my neighborhood I notice my temp gauge is not where its normally supposed to be, to be exact its a notch or so past the midway point, it normally runs at like 1/3. Freakout I pull into the spot and open the pressure relief on the radiator cap - yes I know you're not supposed to do it I wasn't in the right state of mind - steam comes pouring out for a good five minutes. Stumped I attach my laptop to my computer (I run aftermarket EFI) and see what the temp read;, 208 is what it see. I let the car cool off for a while, refill the radiator and off I go keeping a close eye on the temp. While driving in the city it hovered around 195, way above what I'm used to but nothing that I would worry about. As I get stuck in traffic and move inches per hour the temp begins to rise, when it hits 210 I open the heater valve (don't actually turn the heat on though, no vents) and watch as the temp drops to 198 and stays there for a while until I get moving again. I drive on to the freeway and continue to montior the temp, which slowy drops to the mid 180's at 75ish mph. I pull the pull into a gas station to fill up and make sure the radiator fluid was in good shape. When I reenter the car the temp gauge is roughly in the middle and the temp on my computer reads 219, but drops rapdily once I start the car. From then on it gets interesting. The road to the lake is rather long and windy through southern Arizona. Outside temp sits at around 85 or so. I'm driving the usual 50 or so and the temp, as if nothing had happened before, goes back to where it had run before. The rest of the trip to the lake and back this evening the temp never exceeded 175, dipping in to the low 160's at times. So here's my question. From my knowledge of cars - which isn't amazing but I know a bit - it sound to me as if my fan clutch maybe giving out. I'm not an expert and have reviewed a few posts here about cooling but if I had a pressure issue wouldn't the temp always be high or at least elevated and not fluctuate like it did? I run a 160 degree thermostat, the radiator is about three years old, the water pump is 2 years old. All the hoses are new, there are no leaks and since I added fluid into the overflow it has remained constant. There is no white smoke (or sweet smells) - had the friends drive behind me, the oil is oil (needs a change but is oil) and the coolant is nice and green. Any ideas on what this could be? Sorry for the book Thanks again Jan

Hello all Would anyone possibly have good pictures of the hub assembly off a Z car? I'm trying to compare mine to another. Thanks Jan

Leon In turns its a bit bouncier, as in a bit more rear end happy, understeer was what I was getting at. I drove it rather hard the night I pulled the bar off to see what the changes were. Thanks Jan

Mjr34 I did the same thing Jeff did. Go to the local autoparts store and see which one will fit your applications. I had to modify - er..cut the rubber a bit - on one of mine but its holds it rather well. I didn't get them welded on - I should probably - I just used a U clamp to hold them onto the exhaust, it does the job. Also, how and an exhuast shop not know how to make hangers, I'm confused. Hope that helps Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. The bushings and end links are all new, I replaced them about a year ago with brand new poly bushings. As for wedling it back on, I've driven without it for about a week now and find that I actually enjoy it. Yes the suspension is a bit bouncier but its all good. Thanks Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions and link. I've painted the rust and the surrounding area with rustoleum paint to keep it from rusting more. As for keeping the car out of water, I live in Arizona where it rains, about six or eight times a year so that isn't an issue. Also, I'm planning on replacing the outer hatch seal as mine is broken at the top. Should I use the one piece one or the three piece, or does it not matter? Thanks Jan

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions and link. I've painted the rust and the surrounding area with rustoleum paint to keep it from rusting more. As for keeping the car out of water, I live in Arizona where it rains, about six or eight times a year so that isn't an issue. Also, I'm planning on replacing the outer hatch seal as mine is broken at the top. Should I use the one piece one or the three piece, or does it not matter? Thanks Jan

That's actually not as bad as I've seen. Still painful to look at but I've seen much worse.

Thank guys for the suggestions. I've talked to a few people I know and may end up buying the anti-roll bars sold by Beta Motorsports. If anyone has any reasons why not to do that, or any other suggestions let me know. Thanks Jan

So I pulled the sway bar off to see the extent of the damage. The passenger's side mount literally sheared off the car, there's no rust, it literally just came off. Attached is the picture. I'm currently going to run without the sway bar in there rear until I figure out what to do with this. Thanks guys Jan

Well I found the source of the noise, oddly enough by putting something in the trunk. The rear sway bar mount on the passengers side is no longer attached to the car, as in it broke off. I haven't taken a good look at it as it was dark but it looks like it had prior rust on it and just broke off. I don't really know where to go from this point. I don't own nor do I know how to weld. I'm assuming this isn't exactly safe to drive with as it will just do more damage correct? The car doesn't handle any different but the noise(s) it makes are scaring me and I don't want to ruin it more then it is already ruined. Any suggestions would be wonderful. Can one run without said rear sway bar? Thanks

Yes the goal was exactly that to produce cheap cars in the developing world for what I've read. I wouldn't mind if they sold that here though.

Siteunseen This is actually a common question from people. If your fuel system is completely sealed and working correctly - the check ball works no leaks etc - then there should be no hot start issues none zero. Mine has an issue but that's because the check ball in the pump is bad - or stuck - and lets the fuel leak out a bit, leads to some leaning when I restart after a drive. I usually just let the fuel pump run until I stop hearing air enter the fuel tank - it sounds like bubbles. Blue, Is it necessary to make the ends on the fuel rail? Couldn't one just attach a fuel line. I can see the use(s) of it just wondering. Thanks Jan

Blue, What did you use to cut the line with? That actually looks like a really sweet set up, dos it work as planned?

Thank mate I don't actually run a CVS as I have Megasquirt so I just add more fuel through the injectors - much simpler then adding another injector. I have access to a machine shop as long as I can get a hold of the guy that runs it so all the drilling/tappin/threading should be rather simple. To make sure I've listed what I need to do below. Two 1/2 holes on either end of the fuel rail Six 5/16 holes for the six injectors What is the 3/8's for exactly? Sorry want to get this down the best I can before tackling it. Thanks

Thank mate I don't actually run a CVS as I have Megasquirt so I just add more fuel through the injectors - much simpler then adding another injector. I have access to a machine shop as long as I can get a hold of the guy that runs it so all the drilling/tappin/threading should be rather simple. To make sure I've listed what I need to do below. Two 1/2 holes on either end of the fuel rail Six 5/16 holes for the six injectors What is the 3/8's for exactly? Sorry want to get this down the best I can before tackling it. Thanks

Thank mate that does look rather nice Do have a few questions. 1. Did you trim your return line - the metal one - so that it lines up with the firewall? 2. What fuel pressure regulator did you use? 3. How hard was it to build that fuel rail? Did you just used standard brass fittings - from a hardware store - or did you use special fittings? Thanks. I'm only asking as the only thing remaining on my intake that bother's me is the fuel rail everything esle is neatly squared away and tidy after I rewired it. Thanks Jan

Update part three I retorqued all the bolts on the rear suspension this afternoon per measurements given in the FSM. The noise is still there. There is a bit of an interesting development. When someone else is in the car - more weight - the noise is very seldom. The second it is just me the noise happens nearly everytime I hit any sort of bumps. This past weekend I also replaced the rear weatherstripping on the hatch. It's quite sealed. I did find some nasty rust in the process but at least now I know where I have rust and why. Any suggestions would be lovely Thanks Jan

Update part three I retorqued all the bolts on the rear suspension this afternoon per measurements given in the FSM. The noise is still there. There is a bit of an interesting development. When someone else is in the car - more weight - the noise is very seldom. The second it is just me the noise happens nearly everytime I hit any sort of bumps. This past weekend I also replaced the rear weatherstripping on the hatch. It's quite sealed. I did find some nasty rust in the process but at least now I know where I have rust and why. Any suggestions would be lovely Thanks Jan

Blue I remember this fact also, but if someone was to install the chain improperly or due to age the chain had strecthed enough to not be at 0 slack couldn't be possible that enough slack was there that the motion of the remote start caused it to jump a tooth? It's just a thought. Jan

Hey all This afternoon I finally decided to change out the decades old inner weather stripping in my Z. All was going well until I pulled the doom light trim off - the large piece of plastic on the roof support. Once off I found a 1.5" rust section near the drivers side. I pulled all the other pannels of to ensure this was the only area of rust. Pressed around the rust with a screw driver and went right through. After pulling out all the rusted out metal - the whole is about 1" - 2" across - I found where the water had entered. The rear hatch seals - little plastic bucket near the hinges - had broken allowing water into the cabin. Looking at the rust this must have been going on for YEARS. Two questions. First off is this an important part of the car that needs to be fixed immediately or can I let it sit like it is for a while - a year or two? Secondly, does anyone know where on can get new hatch hinge seal? Both of mine are in pretty bad shape. I sealed the hole(s) with some silicone sealer and fixed the outer hatch seal again - I'm going to replace this soon. I'll try to get a photo of the damage and post it here tomorrow. Thanks Jan