St.stephen

hey man I have a boatload of 280 parts. you wouldn;t happen to have a coupe shell that is halfway solid?

While it;s not Z related, these guys share the same passion, heartache, and RUST issues we do..Plus I will have one too one day as I love them!! vintage bus

This one is new to me a ZXR? sporting what could be the ugliest paint scheme I have seen on a z ZXR

My GF wants her own 240. However her expectations are very high. she wants one with the 69 build date however one we can afford and have room to store and will not require me to drive halfway around the country to trailer it back. I don't know that I would let her drive mine when it's done. her car is a 97 explorer sport and it;s a manual so she's legit in that aspect, however.....I just don't think I'd be comfortable with her driving it.

KATS for being this months 'ride of the month' Absolutely gorgeous car!

I should have read further. The car was donated as a tax write off for charity.

I like how the guy said he saw the car coming into the boneyard on a flatbed. Who in their right mind would send that off to the boneyard????

alan, I'm with you....I'd be all over this one if I had the garage space and the price didn't get out of control for a puzzle ZZZZ.

I will agree with you on that note. As these cars are becoming more and more desirable, more ebay sales are trying to pass these off as one of a kind rare when that is far from the case. My favorite is when they advertise an original 5 speed as "RARE" and desirable for a 240 :classic:

2many.....hold your tounge!!! sad shape! I would say needs some work however sad shape?? Honestly that car is less rotted than many I have come across. you guys would gasp at the 280 i am saving. :classic: Gav240, now you are starting to get near my league with what needs to be repaired. Aside from legit shops, I must be one of only ones investing the time putting the bad ones back together

looking at this thing further, this car is in decent shape. I wish I didn't have three already

Looking at the pics, this car is not that bad. Boy, you guys get all tweaked out at the first signs of rust!! My only head scratcher is the edge where the windshield meets the roof. That's it. If you have the tools you are in no means looking in the four thousand dollar range to fix this car. Put the pipe down! the floors in this car are better than most Z's I have repaired, the dogleg is merely some creative sheetmetal work and the patch is available from MSA and VB, rockers are available, etc, etc. I;d like to see pics of the rad support, battery tray, and rear deck. Stop sending these things to the boneyard at the first signs of rust in search of rust free shells. Roll your sleeves up and get to work. these are salvagable.

Now that is my kind of project!!!! For the right price I would bring that thing home in a second no questions asked. Now you can see what kind of Z cars I am most familiar with putting together.

I wish the Z's here in Jersey looked atleast that good under the carpet! That is a piece of cake!!

do a search on this site for my replies........... This is my specialty:beard:

There is also a table defined which shows specific scenarios It has to do with the driver and passenger seating scenarios and the belt switch.... .........Let's digest the schematic

according to the NISSAN 1974 260Z Service manual (p/n 20041 1973) That button is part of the starter interlock system (except for Canada). ......" From the manual Description: The starting system of S30 models is provided with STARTER INTERLOCK DEVICE in accordance with MVSS 208. The engine can be started and the warning buzzer and light will not activate only when every front seat occupant observes the following requirements for starting the engine. (1) Seatbelt is fastened after occupant is seated (2) When none of the seats are occupied If the engine stops the starter interlock device will allow restarting of the engine any of the following conditions (1) the ignition key remains turned to the "ON" position (2) The driver remains seated (3) It is within 3 minutes after turning the ignition key to the "OFF" or "ACC" position In an emergency the engine can be started by observing the following (1) Turn the ignition key to the "ON" postition (2) Push the switch button inside the engine compartment (3) Turn the ignition key to the "START" position

for the really fine stuff nothing can replace a steady hand and a fine brush. Eagle eyes are not needed. For intricate detail work one of those magnifying glasses that have a movable stand make things as big as you need to see them. 3M makes a boatload of masking tape in as little as 1/4' in wide. I use masking tape very often and have several sizes in the shop. You can get it at hobby shops or look for those craft store chains. They carry more brush styles and sizes than any hobby shop I have seen. Art supply stores are great too. I happen to have in my basement a 4'/8' plywood work bench that is pure heaven for building models. Also, it has a large window that looks right into to garage for making me feel guilty that I am fiddling with a 1/24th scale Z car, rather than working on any of mine :sleepy: It's a very relaxing break from the real thing though and would never give up models!!

my 260 has that switch as well and I'm 90% sure that it's a reset button. What it resets I don't know..... I have the factory service manual, I;ll have to check it out when i get home. I never thought to look it up until now and reading this post has given me the "got to knows"

Zwolley...Sure thing. You'd actually be surprised that the larger kits are much easier than the smaller ones. While there are a ton more parts, they fit better and are not as intricate. Always remember, if the model doesn't work out.....buy another kit and do another one!!

Zwolley, check out Tamiya. They make fantastic kits and they make a 1/12 scale 240ZG RHD. I am almost done with this one. Aside from Revell, Fujimi makes about 6 differant 240 kits and one racing 280. the Fujimi kits are equivilant in quality to that of tamiya. Razor sharp decals, excellent molding and usually are molded in more than one color. AMT/ERTL also makes an 81 1/2 ZX. I tend to find Revell and AMT/ERTl kits to have much more flashing to trim and most of the time my models require quite a bit altering to get things to line up properly. Filler putty works wonders! I like to wash all the parts especially the body with some warm soapy water prior to any painting to remove and of the chemicals from the molding process. light sanding with 1000 grit paper prior to shooting any primer coat to give a nice tooth for the primer to adhere too. three light coats of primer with a light sanding in between gives a nice surface for painting. if you are using rattle cans for your body paint, try sitting your paint can in warm water for a few minutes. It warms the paint and it flows better. Check back for some more tips :classic:

I have no idea why......but I hate the word "Bonnet" I have been getting the magazine "Practical Classics" and had to get a good translation down of all the overseas terms like "wing" for fender, and Bonnet for hood in order to follow along

The BRE 240 and the current revell "reissue" 240 are the same kit with the addition of the rear bumper and differant wheels on the reissue. also the BRE kit has some other "goodies" in the box for racing an such. I too have built models all my life and I agree with britt boyette...the kit fits somewhat poorly and needs a little bit of work to make everything go smoothly. OwenK, you can purchase the 240 model from any hobby shop in your area or just order it from the revell site. the link is below revell-monogram

here is a link to a previous discussion about rust hunting rust advice

Lets see, where to look for rust on the Z car..... 1. Under the battery tray, 2. inner fender wells behind the brake lines, 3. lip where the frame rail meets the inner fender well, 4. lower portion of the rad support, 5. floors, 6. inside the engine comapartment where the inner fender well attaches to the frame rail 7. toe boards 8. rockers 9. Rear lip where the hatch meets back end of the car 10. wheel arches 11. inner rockers 12. entire floor inside the car UNDERNEATH the carpet 13. firewall 14. Support rail underneath the fender 15. inside the cowl 16. bottoms of the doors 17. top of the windshield (this one is actually common) 18. rear quarters 19. Rear panel (under the bumper) 20. headlight bucket mounts take yourself out a measuring tape. go inside the engine compartment and measure 6 inches up from the bottom of the frame rail....that six inches worth of metal all the way around the entire vehicle is prone to rust. you need to get the car up on jackstands, remove the wheels, get a flashlight and a screwdriver.....and start poking and prodding. Rust hides underneath the undercoating and an area that looks solid may just surprise you as the screwdriver pokes through.