emccallum

I am debating whether or not to take apart the quarter windows and replace the inner glass seal. They appear ok, but are very hard and dry. I dont see that OEM seals are available and I am wondering if others have any experience with the seals that motorsport sells for the quarter window. I hate to tear it apart, take a chance on messing up the trim, and the new seals are a crappy fit. Outer seals are toast. Thanks!

Yep, sounds like that is the solution. I still scratch my chin trying to decipher the invoice as to what you purchased based on the applications listed. I remember many, many years ago we swapped a 280 clutch and it didnt work. The problem had something to do with it being a 2+2 clutch. I was a teen at the time, and dont recall the exact details, except that Dad wasn't happy with the parts place. That was probably close to 40 years ago! If you remove the slave and there is still pressure on the arm, something aint right. Really isnt that hard to drop the tranny. Post up what you find!

Just went on the site. Way better than the old site! I like the way you choose your year and it only shows items for your year. You dont have to scroll through 510 or 280zx parts.

Reach down and grab the pedal. When you push it with your hand it should have some free play before you feel the pedal touch the master cylinder rod. If you press the pedal and it is instantly "hard" then you dont have any free play. That would be like driving with your foot on the clutch pedal. Free play ensures that the master has no pressure on it and allows the clutch to fully engage. You should be able to adjust the free play under the dash on the master. It looks like your slave cylinder is non adjustable so you may need to adjust the master. Maybe check the service manual for proper amount and a visual of how to adjust.

Do you have play at the top of the clutch pedal? If not, that measurement is worthless as the clutch isnt moving its full amount.

I restored my last Z in the late 90's and dealt with poor fitting aftermarket door seals. Same issue 25 years later.....except OEM is NLA!

Please post up what you find. I have been putting off buying door seals as I cant decide what direction to go. My car is still in pieces, but I rebuilt the hinges, they had a lot of slop in them. Hopefully that will help.

Do you have some free play at the top of the clutch pedal?

Got it fixed. Sometimes you need to just walk away for a while. Removed the hub to recheck the races. Then noticed the hub had a piece of the dust shield bent under it, keeping it from seating all the way. That made perfect sense because I had to loosen the hub nut more than the 60 degrees that the manual states to get the hub to turn free. It never quite felt right.

Thanks Zkars for the link. The hub in question is scalloped. One side went together just fine, so something is different here. Both rotors are new, and measure the same. I have spare parts, so I am going to swap things around and see if I can come up with the answer. Originally the car had a 280 front strut. I sourced a 240 strut (based on the orientation of the brake line tab). So, its possible something is bent or wrong with the strut assembly. Lots of variables that need to be sorted out! Luckily I have some other parts to work with.

I am having an issue with one of my front struts. The caliper is scraping the rotor. I am thinking the hub came off of a 280 and the strut assembly is a 240. Does anyone know if there is a difference between a 240 front hub and a 280 hub? Everything has been rebuilt and I have doubled checked the bearing races to make sure they are fully seated. It seems the hub needs to seat a little more on the spindle to allow the rotor to center in the caliper. Just wondering if anyone has come across this issue. I have a 240 parts car that I may pull the hub off and try a differrent hub. Thanks!

What parts for the antenna do you need? I have a few laying around, but no good masts, which I assume is the part you need.

Probably a month or so. To be honest, it is probably a blessing in disguise as it gives me plenty of time to do things multiple times. I just found some little plastic washers on Amazon for $8, so I get to work on the blinkers one more time. I will probably take you up on the rotisserie when get a firmer date for body work, if the offer is still good.

If i am unsure of a scammer, I ask them to send a unique photo of the item. Something like hold it in your left hand giving the middle finger. Always run any photo they send through google images. Sad there are so many scammers.

Pretty bored waiting on the body shop. I decided to clean up my front blinkers. They cleaned up nice. I ran the plastic housing through the vapor blaster on low psi, and it removed all the overspray. I wish I had taken a before picture. They were pretty rough.The screws were rusty, and got trashed removing them. I found this nice little package of stainless screws on amazon that matched pretty well. The longest one, isnt quite as long as the OEM, but seems to work fine. Just thought I would share the link in case others need some screws. For $10, it isnt worth my time to drive around town searching for screws. I was able to reuse most of the little plastic washers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HV8YZL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Thanks Jonathan, I had no way of trying to figure out the tap size. That was way bigger than anything I have. PC is tough stuff.

I got most everything back from powdercoating and started assembling the struts. New bearings, seals, KYB inserts and brake hardware. I ran into two issues. 1. Powdercoater must have dropped one rear strut and dinged the threads for the stut gland nut. Should have left the old gland nuts in the struts. I played with it for a while and a friend was over that was headed to a machine shop to get something done, so I handed it to him to drop off. I hope it can be chased, because I have a lot of time in the rear bearings! 2. On one front strut the caliper was barely scrapping the rotor on the outer edge. I thought that I didnt seat a bearing race completely, so I tore all back apart and races were fine. I tried another caliper, and it is the same, so I am thinking the rotor (Centric) is a little too thick. I noticed the other rotor appears out of round. I may have them turned or try a different brand. It just barely scrapes. Both rotors measure very close to the same dimensions. Weird. I also hooked up with 240 rubber and got some goodies in the mail today. Glad it worked out as his stuff looks nice and only took a couple of weeks once we got the order settled. I saw on BAT where a very nicely restored 73 240 sold for $88,888, so that justifies a few orders for me 🙂.

My 72 had a wrinkled undercoat, that was applied without the gas tank installed and I am pretty sure it was bare metal under it. We sandblasted it all off. I would doubt any dealer would have gone through the trouble to remove stuff to apply an undercoat. I think the answer is that undercoating may have varied from year to year as the cars rusted way, or our definitons of undercoating vary 🙂

Looks like a solid 240z, with a lot to like. Its a shame they didnt take an extra 30 minutes to cover the engine bay for overspray. How long does it take to remove the plastic intake vents and the washer bottle??

you are welcome. I couldnt figure out why I didnt have my usual 100 pictures, then I remembered I used that thread as my guide. Post up some pictures of your restoration......misery loves company 🙂

Here is a good thread I used

Ryals, I have a ton of heater box pictures. What are you looking for? Happy to post them. ernest

I can take some pictures when I get home, but its basically just an offset flat piece of metal. Should be able to find a pick online. I would think you could bend one pretty easily.