hogie

I just used the basic version of stabil yesterday. It is supposed to have more corrosion inhibitors than the old formula. I have no clue if that is true or not, but I know it is good at keeping gas from gumming up over the winter.

It sounds like that fix would be quite fidgety to get to stick. Was there some reason you had new plates made instead of just slotting the factory peices? Also, the link you posted doesnt seem to be working. I will try to search for those posts when I get the chance. I suppose I will try to get this done when I replace my clutch in the next month or so. I love winter and it sure gives me plenty of time to work on the car, but no time to really enjoy it.

I got the toe set on my 72 earlier this summer and was told my rear end was way out of spec. How bad are the following results? It drives fine on the highway and doesn't visibly dog track with the thrust angle differance. I am still running 14" tires so replacement costs arent a big deal at the moment. Also, I seriously doubt if I will put more than a few thousand on them in a year. Thanks Left Front /Right Front Camber -.4 / -1. Caster 2.6 / 3.1 Toe .12 / .16 left Rear / Right Rear Camber -.8 /-1.1 Toe .13 /.47 Total Toe .6 Thrust Angle -.17

They are also available from Nissan as of August for roughly the same price after shipping.

Yeah, I just saw they approved that the other day. I wonder how much harder this will be on my dirty old fuel lines.

The circuits get corroded and build up a lot of resistance in the wires. Which leads to everything getting really hot and melting down.

I had to thump mine pretty frickin good to get in in. Don't be too afraid of belting it!

Check the obvious, ie fuses and bulbs. Also the switch tends to crap out with age and use, it can be taken apart and cleaned up real easy.

Perhaps they cleaned and then over oiled their filter in that pic. I can't say about a z, but I have run a K&N filter on my 2 dakotas and an S10 without any ill effects.

Well crud, the cars also already had tokico springs on them. There is an autocross in a couple weeks, maybe I will actually get a chance to push it hard then. I have heard that the coils can bottom out on the highway, but I havent experienced anything bad yet.

Hopefully, this isn't too far off of the topic. Are Tokico drop springs with an MSA front sway bar considered stiff enough to fall into option 2?

Good deal on getting everything working. Mk1888's post about touching the positive post made me laugh though. I would be dead a million times over if that was the case. In fact I would've killed myself twice yesterday. My old hydraulic set-up would only shock you a little bit if you were soaking wet and it was running 48 volts!

I am hoping to hear that there isn't much point in adding one. My car came with an MSA rear bar, but none of the hardware and they want $60 bucks for that.

I used the MSA dual fan kit and it works alright. If I hadnt already spent the money I would go back to the factory mechanical fan.

I used the same seat belts as him and I had a spare spacer that I used on one side. The other I stacked a few washers to space it out.

Good deal, sounds like I can make it to the winter after all. I have a very short, very flat drive most of the time. I took it out today after adjusting the pedal and this is the result. It is still slipping in 3rd and 4th, however it is only momentary. As you get on the gas it accelerates hard, then the engine revs up a little higher than it really should as it slips.....then the cluth will start grabbing and then bog the engine to where it really should be. I wonder if I the clutch got a little grease or oil on it and that is causing the slip. I am not getting any clutch stink or noise out of it, so I am really unsure about it. I thought once they started slipping they wouldn't grab again until there wasnt any extra power being put in.

I double checked my pedal adjustment today and it was already quite close to the 72 fsm specs of 8.8 inches from the floor with .95-.97 inches of free travel. I actually have a bit over 1 inch of free play. If I had to adjust the master cylinder I am not even sure it would be possible...someone has apparently pre-buggered this one. It looks like they used some hardcore bronze colored expoxy putty or something. I will be driving the car to work in the morning. Hopefully I will have good news.

I am so used to driving trucks and their much lower red line that I don't usual remember to wind it out. The awesome part is this was supposed to have a "new clutch" and good 5 speed before I bought it.

I haven't driven it too much as it has only been on the road for 3 months or so. I have mostly been driving to and from work which is only a couple of miles either way. The symptoms of my slippage occur when I get hard on the gas in 3rd or 4th gear and around 3 or 4k. It will rev up extremely quick to around 5k and then my actual acceleration catches up a second to two later. This has only happened a few times, so I hope I haven't slipped it enough to have overheated anything. I have not noticed any slippage at all under aggressive starting conditions. Luckily I have a daily driver, so any down time is just an inconvenience. With any luck I can just have my current flywheel machined and not have to purchase one.

My car has developed a slipping clutch under WOT in 3rd and 4th gear. I have a non-adjustable slave cylinder and the clutch seems to have the proper amount of free play so I dont think that is causing the problem. If I drive it gently how likely am I to toast the flywheel? I would really like to delay changing it until this winter. Also, I can't find any stock style 240z replacement flywheels. Does anyone have any recomendations for one? Should I just spring for a 280 flywheel? Thanks

Carfiche.com appears to be down at the moment, but they had the 72 manual for sure. that is where I got mine.

Well I got the front float set to 16mm today and it does seem to run a little bit better. I am not sure what this equates to as far as level inside the float bowl, but it was a significant change from the last setting I had used. It is still a bit hard to start after driving it for awhile. I just have to press the gas just a bit to get the engine to catch. Both carbs now idle up slightly and then drop in revs after lifting the pins slightly so I am at least in the ball park. Too bad the colortune still shows rich.

When I ran into my problems with the radiator being too close to the fan it was the manufacturers fault. The mounting flange was flush with the core support and couldn't be moved away at all.

I think I was able to squeeze the bushing through the radiator support when I was planning on mounting everything up. My factory radiator had holes just like the Champion radiator...so whatever nuts may have been welded on were long gone. Either way it was easier for me to put the rubber on the radiator.

The rubber sleeve fits inside of the radiator mounting hole. The bolt is touching metal on the core support side, but since the rubber sleeve is the only thing contacting the radiator there is no metal to metal contact. See where the gap is in the rubber, the radiator mounting tab sits there. So when you tighten down the nut it squeezes on the sleeve to the bolt head and the radiator just sees rubber.