chiefmd

Look closely at the pedals. Those are not 25k mile wear, maybe 125k

Thanks for all the input. CantechZ looks like I missed the nut on the inside. I saw that the head of the bolt was tack welded to the bracket and I thought that there was a captive nut on the inside, my error. Looks like with that off and the other items removed it should go in fairly easily. Again, thanks for the help.

Got my new rear interior plastic panels know how the hell do you install them without cracking them. I can't remove the strut bracket as they are welded. Anyone have any tricks to putting them in? Thanks

I did not clock the Honda motor. I should have wired it with the relay first then connect the Honda motor, cycled it to the park position then made the cuts on the shaft to line up with the Z wiper arms. I happen to have an extra Honda motor so back to grinding.

Thanks figured it out.

Just finished the wiper upgrade. It functions and parks as it should with this exception. Wiper at the bottom of the windshield I turn them on, the wipers come up (as they should) but on the down stroke it runs past the bottom of the w/s onto the cowl, comes up I turn off the switch and they park at the bottom where they should. In order to eliminate the over run on the bottom I have to position the wiper arm about 4" up from the bottom. Any suggestions. Could it be that I cut the motor arm threads at the incorrect clock position?

Managed to get the shaft back in. PO must have really pulled on it. Thanks

Just picked up a 1973 240z, great shape but I need to fix a few minor issues. The hazard switch shaft and knob have come out of the flasher assembly. Is there anyway to reinstall the shaft or does the complete assembly need to be replaced? I did remove the switch from the dash but no matter how hard I try the shaft will not stay in. There are two flat spots on the shaft which I assume should lock into something. Does anyone have any experience with this. Thanks

Stealth - Would you happen to have the two rear shock tower plastic round cover? Also, looking for the left rear panel with the speaker holes, the tail light interior panel, and the panel for the hatch. Thanks

Not to change the subject but has anyone installed the new Dynomax VT muffler. They claim that it is "drone-free" under normal driving condition but when you with wot an internal valve opens for straight through performance. Here's a link: http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=vt

Great looking car - is it Datsun silver. If not what silver did you use?

Just for giggles I hooked up a 1.5 Ohm Flamethrower that I had and the tach worked. So if I want to use the .6 ohm Flamethrower II looks like I need a 1 ohm resistor inline. Thanks for all the input.

I was thinking maybe just replace the .06 ohm coil with a Flamethrower 1.5 or 3.0 ohm unit? What do you think?

Recently I decided to convert my 77 280Z transistor ignition over to the GM HEI module. I used my existing distributor and just removed the original transistor ignition and ballast resistor and installed the GM module. I used a Pertronix Flame Thrower II (.6 Ohms) coil. I followed instructions for connecting the wiring from the ballast resistor. Started the car and it ran great. The only problem is that the tach doesn't move unless I gun the engine and then it jumps up to 2-3k then just drops to zero. A member on another forum suggested removing the resistor located on the pax foot well. I disconnected it and installed a jumper wire. Same thing, car runs great just no tach. Any suggestion would be welcomed. Thanks

Here a couple of pics of mine with blacked out window trim and bumpers. I have since removed the 280z rear bumper valance and it looks much better.

I have a 77 280Z that I recently adjusted the valves on, Hot - I -.10, E .12. Seems to run OK but I have what sounds like a miss (puff-puff) at the exhaust. The only problem is that I found out the the head is a P-79 off of a 81-83 ZX. My question is, I think I know the answer, shouldn't I adjust the valves to the ZX settings, Hot I .25, E .30. Thanks

Found them at the "Datsunstore" http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/11_35/products_id/886

Thanks

Looking for a part # and source for the headlight gasket for a 77 280Z. I believe its listed as a "packing sheet". Thanks

Is there anyway to check a fpr off the car? I was thinking about drawing a vacuum with a vacuum pump and checking to see if there is any leak down over a period of time. I would think that the fpr should hold the vacuum. If it didn't would that indicate a leaking fpr? Thanks

I was also wondering about this. Has anyone come up with an answer to this.

Performed the test this morning and the FP jumped right up to 60psi. Guess I'll purchase a FPR.

ChrisB77- The regulator is fairly new so I was assuming that it was the FP. I will confirm by performing the test you recommend. Thanks for you assistance.

Really appreciate all your help. Thanks

The car came with an aftermarket fuel pump so I don't think I can change out the check valve. Looks like I'll try for an OEM one. Do you happen to know the part # for a 77 280Z pump?