IdahoKidd

God created light. It took Lucas to make it dark again.

I found this car and the owner is stating these are "rare SSR wheels from Japan, perhaps the only set in America" Anyone recognize them or know anything about them? Thanks, Leonard

check for "thermotime switch" in the search function or in the manual. I can't recall off the top of my head, but I think it fuels for cold start. Check the connections to the two sensors in the very front of the motor. One is the temp sensor, the other the thermotime switch. You might try unhooking the cold start injector plug so it can't put fuel into the system too.

Jeff, Spend every spare minute you have reading every post ever put here and you'll have a beginning of what you will need to know. It sounds as though you have a major project car. Check for more rust. Check the frame rails, the fire wall behind the rusted fenders, under the battery, under the carpet, along the back of the hatch, and on and on. You may find that it is going to be more effort than you might want. I agree with Steve, determine what you need to do, determine your budget, and then decide from there. My 72 orange with white required minimal body work, had no rust, had a running engine, and I have just cruised past $7000 on a car I didn't expect to put $1500 into. And I am about 4K short of completion. It happens fast and with big numbers. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have..... However, it will be awesome when it is done! Good luck, but read read read. Leonard PS If you click under the members names on "see my Z photos", many have project pictures and often they are great for references on your own project PSS You are likely to get scolded for posting the same question in more than one spot. I absolutely guarantee your post will get read, no matter where it gets posted.

Hey, I just fixed this very same problem last night. Under the dash where the pedal connects to the clutch master is a rod that is threaded with a lock nut on it. If the nut comes loose, the rod can rotate and the travel of the pedal becomes limited. I am betting the car starts to move when the pedal is still very close to the floor.(?) Adjust the rod so that the free play is largely gone (when the car doesn't move when the clutch is let out to about a third of the pedal throw). I'd bet money on it! Leonard Number 1 in the pic above

Does the car have an automatic or a manual transmission? If a manual, it is almost certainly the clutch.

Very nice!

Anyone have a better definition of a "punk"?

Hi Dank, welcome aboard! If all of the stuff is actually true, and it looks like it could be, the car looks good from here (Idaho ). The price is right where it should be I'd think. Search here for issues and read all of the posts you have time for. Rust is a huge issue on these cars. As far as operating costs, they aren't budget busters. Expect something around 18 -25 mpg. Parts are cheap and plentiful and there is a ton of help and experience here. You'll need to get a service manual and be able to do some wrenching or be able to learn to. It is all little stuff, but these cars are considered dinosaurs to the modern repair shop. I'd drive my 77 anywhere on the planet and not expect any issues at all. And you'll have to do something about the color scheme. It has some serious chick deflection about it. (IMO) I'd say check it out, if you like it, drive it home and smile all the way! Leonard

I am with Dave on the exhaust leak. Does the tap increase rythym with RPMs? Change sound or pitch with a load? Can you isolate it to front or back of motor or top or bottom? Any chance it goes away when the clutch is depressed? Is it there from cold start? What do you know about the motor? Could be piston slap, wrist pin... could be lots of things. Are you running manual fuel pump? More information will lead to more speculation.

I had that banner on my 280 when I got it. Drove it for nearly a year then replaced the glass. Took weeks to get used to driving it without it....

My 77 will occasionally do that. In my case, it is a contact issue with the fuse itself. Rotating the fuse inside the metal prongs that hold it into place get it going again. I really need to clean the contacts I suppose. To the best of my knowledge, only the 78 has vacuum controls to the heat/ac system. You will be able to tell by a vacuum cannister mounted on the right innner fender and a series of vacuum lines that go into the firewall. Leonard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "you guys are going to drive me crazy i have a 11/71 hls30-17645 it is a 71." I have two 10/71's, one is 49062, one is 59995. Both titled as 72's Out of curiosity, and it may have been answered somewhere before, where all the z's (240's) made in the same plant/assembly line?

The poor start and running conditions you describe are not symptoms of valve trouble but sound like fuel issues. Before you get carried away with an expensive valve job, check things like the compression, the color of the plugs, etc. Check fuel pressure and fuel flow. It sounds more like a clogged fuel filter or a gummed up gas tank. Be sure your timing is correct and your cap, plugs and wires are in good shape. You may dive into a head job and find it is no better than before. Go to the "search" function at the top of the page and spend an hour chasing threads about fuel pressure, gas tanks, fuel lines, no start issues, etc. It will save you hundreds of dollars and give you some great knowledge. Give more background on the car too please, such as, how long have you owned it, when was it running well last, how long has it sat, any mods that you know of, etc. All of these things can trigger responses from members who have 'been there, done that' and will keep you from re-inventing the wheel. Let us know whay you find out. Leonard

The motor is complete, with starter and transmission for $250. But, it is a 4 hour drive. Everything in Idaho is a 4 hour drive. If it were closer, I'd get it just to get it. I don't really have need for it. It is in extreme north eastern Washington if someone else is interested.

Hi guys, I have found a complete diesel motor. What is the crank worth to someone wanting to build a stroker? I don't really have a use for it but hate to see it go to waste. ( I am trying to decide if it is worth my time and effort to fool with it) Thanks, Leonard

All three of my 77's have N47 heads, which have round ports. Be certain you double check the head and port before ordering a header or you may not get the one you need. As I recall, the Cal emissions motor have an altitude compensator and a catalytic converter but nothing else. No smog pump or O2 sensors in the exhaust (until you get to the ZX years). My header came with an O2 boss and a plug if it didn't use the sensor.

at coinmil dot com it says that is $9859.00. Without seeing the car, but if it was clean and rust free and correct I'd think it went for a good price for both buyer and seller, perhaps a bit better for the buyer. IF it were in good condition. And I don't have a clue about the supply and demand in your area, which can make a huge difference either direction. Thanks for letting us know the price.

Would you be kind enough to tell us what it did go for? Mostly curious. Leonard

I'd have bet against that but am so glad you got it back! Congrats and good luck getting back into shape. Leonard

Everyone has an opinion. I think the 2+2 was a terrible distortion of a nice car. It was orignally built to satisfy the insurance company by taking it out of the sports car class. Just because it has a seat, doesn't mean you can set in it. The standard 2 seater by all means has a better profile and looks proportionate. As for your goals, if there isn't much of a following there, it is going to be tough getting all the items together. Get the car first, and read read read everything you can find. For the conversion issues, check out hybridz.org as they specialize in altering the Z's. Good luck!

If they did a Z on Overhaulin', I'd think that car is largely what they'd come up with. I'm still wondering if it wasn't an April fools' gag that might have went too far.....

Jon, You were dead on. All we had handy was the pictures from black dragon. They show it turned the other way. Inspection of the other Z's in my yard showed it the opposite direction. Thanks for the tip! Leonard

Hey thanks for the work and the effort! I've saved it to file for putting back together my 72.

Just bought one at O'reilly's and feel very confident. New, not rebuilt. Not going to give it a second thought.