wantin
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If memory serves me,we used to use a factory sender for an early seventies roadster. It would register higher at warm idle.
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Carl, Finally had time to find engine ser.# for HLS30-00849. It is L24-3834 and it matches the under hood serial number plate. I will submit this info to your website. Thanks for the inquiry, Neil
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Carl, I haven't had time to raise the hood on HLS30-00849, but will get back with you soon. Neil
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Carl, This car has been in Kansas and in a state of s-l-o-w restoration since 1975. It has never been advertsed for sale. I don't have the engine # with me, but will look under the hood by the first of next week and reply again. Thanks for the inquiry, Neil Gilbert IZCC # 14083
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I purchased my HLS30-00849 in 1973. Drove it about two years. Tore it down. Changed from green to red. As Datsun parts mgr., bought a new part each week. It still sits in basement garage and hasn't been driven in 33 years.
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The hammer is the tool most used. This was something we devised while racing datsuns in the early seventies to save time. I forgot to say, use oven mits or lots of shop rags to remove drum. We never had one warp or the aluminun fins distort.
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An easy way to remove rear brake drums without damaging them is to jack up one side. Block the other side well. Remove the wheel that is in the air, but replace the lug nuts on to the studs part way. Now the tricky part. Start the car, release clutch slowly while pulling up on the handbrake. Note: This will result in dangerous forward motion if posi-track equipped. The heat induced in the drum while turning will expand it enough to slowly work its way off the rusty hub and will stop at the lug nuts if you remembered to put them back on. If not, the wheel cylinder pistons and shoes will remove themselves automatically.
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