Richard McDonel

Racer X Thanks for the link. Good to know. Having said that, I'm left unsure as to whether the coolant line through the manifolds began with the 1972 model year, or with the so-called Series 2, mid-1971 cars that among other things removed the rear hatch lid vents. Any idea? Reason I ask is that I have a manifold with the cooling line currently on the car (4/71), but two others, one of which does not have the line lying around taking up space. Thanks

Mark, Thanks for responding. I'm with you on not understanding why do they want to warm the carbs. The other side of that is that until the car warms up, you're running cold water through the line. so what possible purpose can it serve? ps When I first posted this I was afraid I might be asking a dumb question. Doesn't look like it was dumb after all, as several smart guys echoed by confusion.

Apologies if this has already been discussed, but as I work to bring my '71 Series 2 back to original, I remain puzzled by the coolant line running through the intake manifold. I've now reconnected it, but only for appearance purposes. When a car is first started, the coolant is, as name suggests, cool. So how can it have any effect on smoother running when still cold? But on the other side of the equation, once the engine warms up why would we want to be heating the intake manifold? Having the coolest intake charge is fundamental to performance is it not? The cool fuel mixture is more compact and will there expand to a greater measure at the point of ignition. Any thoughts and/or wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone. I have one now. Local Nissan dealer was able to find one. It took a month, but what the heck - it's taken a decade to restore the car!

View Advert Lowering 240Z springs These came with a parts car I bought. They were on the car, but as it didn't run, I believe they have zero miles. Only flaw is a bit of overspray while a friend was painting the frame of another car, and the scratches on the finish of the mounting surfaces. Fronts are 11 inches tall while the rears are 11 5/8. Stock springs for 240 front are 14.7 inches (373.5 mm) left side and 15.1 right (386 mm)(inch measurements on page FA-20 of my FSM are incorrect). Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 06/29/2022 Price $75 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 240Z Left front fender Left front fender. Minimal rust. Pictures tell it all. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 06/24/2022 Price $80 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Left front corner panel Left front corner panel, with park light lens from '72 Z. Bit of rust, but basically sound and reusable Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 06/24/2022 Price $35 Category Parts for Sale

For whatever reason, I find myself with only one seat belt buckle for my '71 Series 2. Been getting along with an old 3" racing belt on the driver side, but I'm now trying to get the car back to original. Photo attached. If anyone has the buckle or the whole belt (I have a contact qualified to make a replacement belt) I'd be happy to pay. I've placed an ad on the Parts Wanted page, but no responses yet.

Thanks Jim, I'll take another run at the local Nissan store. When I was in there about a year ago the relatively new parts staffers told me they could get nothing older than 1975. Actually I'm not quite sure they knew what I was talking about when I said "Datsun." Frankly, Yes, that is the strap have, but as I said I need the chrome end caps. Yarb, Terrapin and S30, thanks for your thoughts - I'm all over this! Cheers, Richard

View Advert 240Z door pull I need the passenger-side door pull, with the chrome caps at both ends. Anyone? Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 06/13/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240Z

I have a hodge-podge of seat belts. I'm trying to restore 240Z HLS30 28736 to as original as possible. Aside from some after-market stuff I have one complete Z car female-side buckle - photo attached - but need one more. Can anyone tell me if this is correct for my car. I posed a want ad and one fellow offered my a set which I believe is later series, having plastic reinforcement of one side. Many thanks, Richard McDonel

View Advert 240Z seat belt buckle I need the seat belt buckle matching the one shown here. If someone has the whole belt, that's OK too, but I have a fellow who is qualified to stich new material. Actually, I only really need the female side of the buckle, but I'll happily buy the set. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 06/10/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240Z

View Advert New driver's side floor panel. One half original set from MSA. I only needed passenger side. $125 U.S. or $150 CAD. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 05/31/2022 Price $125 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert New driver's side floor panel. One half original set from MSA. I only needed passenger side. $125 U.S. or $150 CAD. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 05/31/2022 Price $125 Category Parts for Sale

I have had a problem with exhaust getting into the cabin of my 240 HLS30 28726. I used a theatre fog machine to find where it was coming in, and found minor leaks around the right tail light, the license plate light and the antenna. Got them all fixed. The remaining problem, and the biggest, is the hatch seal. While the hatch itself is a good fit and well aligned, I'm getting leaks on both sides, but not the top or bottom. The seal itself is only a few years old and has very few miles. The material remains malleable. I believe I got it from the now-defunct Black Dragon Automotive. Can anyone tell me if there varying quality seals out there? Any to avoid, or any to be recommended? Other thoughts? Many thanks in advance.

Personally, when using an open trailer I like some sort of barrier across the front. It stops any direct hits from stones or other road debris, which are the things that can damage your paint and glass. It won't protect you from air turbulence, but that's minor compared to front-end hits. My own open flatbed is a leftover from my racing days and has a full-width storage bin across the front. Works just fine.

TO: Terrapin, 26th-Z, CanTech Z, Dave Thank you ever so much fellows! Your input will be of great help. Happy Motoring, Richard

I have a 1971 Z, serial # 28726. I restored it from bare stripped body to the point where it is now a very nice driver. I'd like it to be as close to original as possible, but given that three cars - '70, a '71 and a '73 - contributed parts, there is some confusion as to what is correct for this body. For instance, I have the centre console that includes an ashtray and a cigarette lighter, but my dash also has a hole meant for a lighter located under the four-way flasher switch. Which is the correct place for the lighter? Second question, the interior door pull handles - should my '71 have both, none, or just one on the passenger side? The floor under the seats - just jute padding? Or carpet? Any thoughts you might have would be appreciated.

Av8ferg, Given your profession, and what was found in your glove box, may I say that this was a case of Dreams Take Flight.

Racer X Just finished painting my birdhouse. White. Made a mess. Haven't the faintest idea how you did that mailbox.

Just for fun, I decided to look up the early road tests of the 240Zs. Not sure who did the driving, but in 1970, Road & Track had a 0-60 acceleration result of 8.7 seconds. Car & Driver came in at 7.8. Misprint, or numbers criss-crossed? Bad driver at R & T? Top speed was also in two different ball parks. Car and Driver had it at 109 mph, while Road & Track claimed 122 mph at 5,800 rpm. Could it be a difference in gear ratio? Road & Track shows a rear-end ratio of 3.36/1, while Car and Driver does not mention that. Were the early batches of 240s sent over with two different rear ends? Curious

@Mailnome, Quite right. Other things a guy will likely get right on the first try. Make sure everything is clean, get the right parts on in the right order with the proper torque, and even if it's your first time, you will get it right. But painting? Not so much. It is a practiced art. Best equipment in the world and you will still have too much or too little - all bald spots and leaks. It would be as If you were a lousy golfer and Phil Mickelson loaned you his clubs. You would still be a lousy golfer.

Siteunseen, Thanks for the tip on the silver sharpie. I'll try that. As for the hood emblem retaining clips, I had a s.o.b. time getting them off back when I was at the tear-down stage. Easy getting the nuts off and on with an 8mm socket if I need to ever touch up the emblem.

I can't say whether this bright idea of mine has been offered by others before, but here goes: The metal badge on the front of the hood has a raised centre section and DATSUN letters that are chrome finished. The recessed areas are painted black. Over half a century the black paint had faded to pretty much nothing. I briefly tried to paint the recessed areas, but getting into tiny areas like the interior surface of the "A" was beyond my artistic skill level. What I came up with was to take a very thin touch of vaseline on my finger, and run it over the raised chrome areas, being careful not to get any on the black areas. Again, a very thin layer on the finger. Then spray paint the badge - three coats in my case - let it thoroughly dry, then wash off the vaseline with soap and water. It worked! Attached is the finished product. I regret not taking before and after pics, but I think any 240 hounds will have a pretty good idea of what it looked like when I started.

View Advert cowl finisher Used 1973 cowl finisher. Good condition. Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 10/31/2021 Price $50 Category Parts for Sale