soundmasterg

So it sounds like Sunday is the day most people will be going and meeting at 9:30am? Greg

Having a dyno at the show...now THATs really cool. I may just have to do that just to see where a stock '72 that sat for 20 years is.....then I'll have a baseline for comparison when I put in the turbo motor later! Greg

I'd be up for a set too, but not awhile as the Z needs more pressing things right now. If they become available though, I will get one. Greg

Check the '91 Accords also. They will have a motor that works just fine, with the only caveat being that you have to grind down the shaft a bit. I did this for mine since I couldn't find the correct one ouf of the Civic of that era, and it works just fine. I got it installed yesterday btw. Greg P.S. Still working on the delay circuit idea Dave.

Thats interesting Arne! Will a '72 240Z be able to adapt to a 5 speed transmission then without cutting or will a special or modified shift lever be required? Greg

Are there any differences between the various 5 speeds as far as how they mount into the car and where the shifter sits? I've heard that some require cutting on a 240Z and others don't? Greg

I plan on changing to a 5 speed and R200 soon (next couple months) in my '72 240Z if I can source one of each. When I do, my 4 speed will be available for sale if someone wanted it. It works great and only has 84,000 original miles on it. Changing it all depends on my ability to source the 5 speed that I want for reasonable money though. If interested, check back with me in a couple months unless you see a post by me selling the 4 speed. Thanks and good luck. Greg

Thanks for the suggestions. The cap and rotor are brand new and look just fine. I didn't have anything remotely resembling the problem until I put the pertronix in. I did have it wired directly to the coil since I used a Crane PS40 coil.....I figured it would be ok as the coil had a 1.8 ohms resistance. Just in case I moved the connection to the ballast resistor and I haven't had the problem reoccur yet, so maybe that was it. I will doublecheck all the connections though just to be sure. Greg

I just installed the Pertronix unit in my '72 Z and the car runs light years better than it did with the points. The strange thing is that if I let the car idle, it will just up and quit after a couple minutes all on it's own. Then if I try to restart it, it will not start until I pull the distributor cap off, and then put it back on again. Then it starts right up. It runs fine as I drive and hasn't quit yet while driving...just when stopped for a light and while talking to someone while the car idled. I don't see anything wrong with the cap, and as far as I can tell the Pertronix unit is installed correctly. I'm pretty baffled so if anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them. Greg

Just an update for ya'all. I found some lugnuts locally with the help of some of the local club members, and got out of the ebay auction too, so all is golden. Drove the car again for the first time since Easter. Now on to the wipers and ebrake, and when the fuse block comes in, the partial rewire. Thanks for the help all. greg

If you can do better than I'll just go through you....except I've got the high bid right now.....I guess if I don't win then I'll give you a shout. I need something that will work.... Greg

Thanks for the ebay link! I'm bidding...see if I win it. If not, there is always the dealer. It would be nice to be able to drive the car again so I hope I win. greg

Thank you guys. I did check with John at the swap meet and he didn't have anything. I'm going to join the official local club and then I can get a discount at the dealer. I've checked all over otherwise and no one has any. sblake, if I have any trouble getting them from the dealer for some reason, then I may want to get them from you anyway. If so, I'll PM you. Thanks! Greg

I've got a used copy of Wick Humble's book that I got as a gift for sale for $10 + ship if anyone is interested. If so, please PM me. Thanks! Greg

Hey all, I'm looking for 16 lug nuts that will fit the '82-'83 280ZX Swastika wheels so I can put them on my 240Z. All the ones I find locally either have a shaft that is too long, or too big around, and will not fit correctly. If anyone has anything they will sell cheap, then please PM me. I'll need to see pictures to make sure they will work. Thanks! Greg

You can always buy one and have a shop do the work. It might even be cheaper since you cut a middleman out. Greg

Hey Arne, I'm going to have to put a roof in on my '72 eventually also, and would love to know the contact info for the guy who is doing the work for you. Thanks! greg

I guess you'll soon be able to add me to your list of locals Gary. I plan to join the club soon and attend some events. My '72 240Z is a ways off from being done and even from being reliable, but it will get there eventually. Thanks for the phone call and the help and sending Roge my way yesterday. Thought we had some wheels that would work out but they were for an Audi pattern instead. Hoping to find something tonight that will work. We'll see I guess. Greg

I hope to be there too, though the Z won't be there with me. What time does it start anyway? Greg

It sounds like the problem was probably in the molex connectors just like mine is with my '72. In my case it is intermittant, and it is also in the fuse block. So with a new fuse block on the way, I'll be delving into the connectors to see if I can sort out the problem. Greg

Yeah, I was just saying to try some contact cleaner in the blinker switch before adding solder to it because its easier and quicker, but I guess it doesn't hurt, and if his are really worn out, then solder is the best choice. My marker/taillights are flaky because I have a problem with those green wires in the fuse block and in the molex connectors and making consistent contact. I'm waiting on a new fuseblock from MSA to fix that problem. Greg

Rather than adding solder, just use some contact cleaner. I had the same problem...I wasn't getting the right blinker but the left worked fine. I took the switch off just enough to spray contact cleaner inside it, and then worked it back and forth and both blinkers work just fine now. They oxidize the contacts inside just like the headlight switch. I had problems with the headlights and marker lights too, and after cleaning the headlight switch, the headlights work but the marker lights are flaky and work sometimes and other times not. I'm replacing the fuse block and going with the relay harnesses that Dave Irwin sells and hopefully that will solve the problems. If not, at least I'm starting with something fresh and better instead of more than 30 years old and rotted/worn out/eaten by rats. Greg

This is a picture of the incorrect motor, which did come off a 1991 Honda Civic. I'm off to the wrecking yard to see if I can find the correct one. Greg