fixitman

Geezer, perhaps these photos will provide a clearer view of the sway bar installation. Since the arms bend up at the links, just like the factory bar, I think it is installed correctly. Do you agree? Fixitman

Thanks, Geezer. I'll let you know if I need measurements of the stock bar. I wonder what happened to my factory bar. So, which way is the bar oriented in your photo? I might know a little more tomorrow. Today, the shop was going to add a 3/4" spacer to the links. They think that will provide enough rotational clearance. As I mentioned earlier, the sway bars are by Quickor but the links and bushings have been replaced with Suspension Techniques' kits. Much to my surprise, the Quickor polyurethane bushings cracked after sitting around for 25 years. Suspension Techinques is the only company I could find with replacement components to fit the Quickor bar diameters. ST's link spacer might be shorter than the Quickor pieces but the bolts are longer than needed for STs standard spacer. On the positive side, the tech had the car out for a 10 mile test drive yesterday. He said it ran strong, no nasty resonance in the exhaust, good throttle response and it handled well. I see an interior being installed soon. Fixitman

Thanks for your help. One problem solved. As shown on in the photos of a previous post, the dampener needs to be rotated 180 degrees. Carl, when I get the Euro Stage 1 springs back, I'll provide photos and dimensions for the data base. You are correct, the springs were refinished with polyurethane paint, covering the paint codes. But the shop was suppose to tag fronts from rears. So, now the question is "Is the differential mount correct and installed correctly"? Regards, Fixitman

The bar is by Quickor, 7/8" dia. What rubber part are you referring to? Do you mean the stacked metal plates of the damper? The attached photo shows the sway bar from the other side. Thanks, Fixitman

But there is still the problem of the driveshaft/yoke interference with suspension movement. I still think this car wanted to rest in pieces! Fixitman

I'm not sure I understand your comment. Depending on which way it's rotating, the swaybar is either hitting the drive shaft yoke or the differential damper as the rear suspension travels up or down. I was wondering if the damper should/could be rotated 180 degrees, so that the vertical section is behind the differential cross member. The shop replaced the Euro Stage 1 springs with the original factory springs this week. The rear ride height came down to factory specs with a full tank of gas. So ride height isn't an issue now. Your thoughts? Fixitman

Does any one have a photo which shows an installed differential damper? The shop tells me the rear sway bar is hitting it as it rotates. I want to make sure the damper, as shown in this photo, is properly installed . Thanks, Fixitman

There is another spoiler option: fabricate your own. Start with a little modeling clay and consider the existing fender lines. Try to blend the sail panel with the fender lines. Consider how the factory might have done it if they had done it. And find a skilled craftsman to work the metal. Fixitman

I appreciate everyones responses, wise consul and willingness to share their experiences. After all the bits are added, I'll ask the shop to readjust the suspension again. For now, the shop is going to powder coat the orignal springs and reinstall them. I'll let you know what happens to the ride height in a week or two. They tell me the rear springs are much stiffer than the originals. I'm wondering if Nissan actually shipped Stage 2 springs for the rear. It wouldn't be the first time Nissan shipped the wrong part with the correct part number. Thanks again, Fixitman

The ride height dimensions noted in the beginning of this post were supplied by two Classic Z Car members with stock suspensions on early 260Z's, not 240's. The suspension was installed properly. But as a check, all suspension pivots were loosened and re-torqued with the car on grade yesterday. To obtain the proper rear ride height, it took two men standing on the rear bumper shocks. One seat, carpet, a few plastic panels and the spare tire have to be added yet. But these items will not add 350-400 lbs. to the car. Bilsteins are gas pressured shocks. According to one of Carl Beck's post, they work well on one of his 240's. Due to the ride height, the car cannot be driven because the sway bar pivots up and hits the drive shaft yoke. The shop is going to install the original springs and see if that makes a difference. What else can account for a rear ride height 2.5" over spec? Fixitman

The attached photo shows the difference in spring height between a rear Euro Stage 1 spring and the stock factory springs. The Euro spring has 9 coils versus 11 for the stock spring. Unless there's a good reason to use the Euro springs and a way of reducing the ride height at the same time, I'm thinking of powdercoating the original springs and reinstalling them. There is a 3/8" - 1/2" height difference (about a coil wire diameter) between the front and rear stock springs. Does anyone know which end of the car gets the shorter and taller springs? Thanks, Fixitman

Based on the attached photos, does the ARB appear to be installed correctly? Thanks, Fixitman

I haven't heard the system in person yet. But I'm told everytime the mechanics come back from a test drive, they're wearing a big smile. They say the engine has good torque and throttle response. If you are considering a 2 1/2" dia. S.S. system, I have most of the components for sale in the classified section. I can give you the contact info for the company that bend the "S" pipe for me. It's the same fabricator that MSA uses in Anaheim, CA to fab their systems. If you are using a factory exhaust manifold or a MSA header system, they can probably bend all the required pipes from the pipe sections I have for sale. I'll give you a good price on all of these Borla components. Regards, Fixitman

While visiting the shop yesterday, I took the attached photos of the completed system. Fixitman

There are regular contributors to the Classic Zcar Club forums who have experience with split systems. I suggest doing a search for past discussions on this topic. Good luck and show us a few photos when completed. Fixitman

Maybe you would like to consider a stainless steel system. The exhaust photos in my members gallery show a custom fabricated 2.25" dia. Borla-based system with flanged connections for the muffler and resonator. If you want a 2.5" dia. system, I have Borla components for sale in the classified section. Fixitman

The attached photo shows Bridgestone's RE-960AS on a 15" x 7" wheel. The Tire Rack felt this was the best tire available in the size and catagory. In a few months I'll find out how good they are. Regards, Fixitman

You might consider something in between a performance build and stock. Let's call it a period correct restoration. During the production years, many factory and aftermarket parts were available to personalize and improve the handling and performance of any 240Z to 280Z. A quality period correct restoration may give your friend the best of both approaches and a higher value car. Good luck with the project. Fixitman

I need the advise of the forum's suspension experts to solve a driveshaft yoke/sway bar interference problem and high rear ride height problem. Perhaps the issues are interconnected. Background info follows. Vehicle: Early '74 260Z Sway Bars: Quickor, 1 1/8" front, 7/8" rear Struts: Bilstein (early '80's series) Springs: Stage 1 Euro, 54010-N3500 front, 55020-N3501 rear Differential: R180 LSD Per two forum members, stock ride height is 26 1/2" - 26 5/8" front and 25 5/8" - 25 3/4" rear, as measured from road to wheel well side of fender arch. The shop measured 26 7/8" front and 28 3/8" rear on my car. A few bits, like bumpers, spare tire and most of the interior plus a full tank of gas will add a little more weight and perhaps lower the ride height a little. If I remember correctly, two springs came in without part numbers but I was told the color coding was correct. Is there anyway of knowing if the springs are correct for this car? Free length, number of coils, wire diameter? Is it possible that the sway bar is installed upside down? I would appreciate your input. Thanks, Fixitman

Thank you. Your explanation was very informative. This thread was the result of another I posted about interference between the rear swaybar and drive shaft. According to the shop, the driveshaft flange is hitting the sway bar. Any thoughts on why this problem is occuring? Thanks, Fixitman