five&dime

Carl, my comment on the cost was due to the fact that there was far more poorly repaired collision damage than expected in this extremely rust free 71. As you can see in the resto thread, almost half the car has been replaced within the last year :)The body guy has put far more hours into this car than I could imagine. He has a porsche 356 spyder in there with something insane like 1000+ hours in block sanding. It's exquisite.

Right he is. The joys of having kids.

Hahaha. I found my dad a rust free quarter for $250

I would venture to guess that depending on how "rough" it is, you can expect to pay b/t $20k minimum and $50k max for a complete resto. Doing almost all work yourself. So I guess the question would be do you have a few years and $20k+ to invest in a full resto. This is of course just general. Once pix are posted I imagine members could guess the cost down to + or - $1k

Here are a few more pics the body guy sent. The car is wrapping up. The engine bay and door jams should have paint within a few weeks. All the car needs now is an original dogleg for the passenger side. Note the body gaps. This guy is truly a perfectionist. He even drilled out the spot welds on the master cylinder access door latch. I assume it didn't line up perfect after the gapping was done. So he will move it slightly. The guy is an artist.

Good work no doubt. Our body guy is an absolute perfectionist. It has to be OEM or better He refuses to cut any corners. Here are a few detail shots. Check out how he drilled out the welds on the master cylinder access door latch. I assume he is moving it slightly so it's perfect. The body gaps are better than factory now. This guy is truly an artist. Unfortunately for my dad, I am sure the price tag will reflect the guy's skills

My dad got the rear quarter from Arizona Z last year. He has been hoping that they have another one but no luck thus far. We were hoping someone else had a decent rear quarter they could cut out. I would imagine there has to be plenty of good ones on wrecks in AZ and CA. Our body guy said he could probably make due with the Tabco if he combines two of them. We really want OEM though since that has been the case with all other parts on this resto.

My dad (Diseazd) Has been looking for a passenger side dogleg for his 71 240z for quite sometime. Our body guy has Tabco pieces but he doesn't like them. He is a perfectionist and looking for original Nissan piece. He is even less enthusiastic about Wolf steel/alfa parts so...... If anyone has or knows where we can find a passenger RUST FREE dogleg, please let us know. Even if it's on a car and needs to be cut out. We will pay for labor depending on the cost of course. For anyone who is not sure what the dog leg is, it's the outer metal b/t the rear end of the rocker panel (below the door) and the front of the rear wheel arch. Thanks in advance, Brandon

I went to Lowe's to get it. Just make sure you get satin. I did 3-4 light coats. The can is black and gold.

Have you tried calling your local auto paint supplier? I seriously doubt anyone here would have that answer. If you know the code you should be able to get the mixture directly from PPG

It's a red car. Have them take a UV reading of the color. Then get the rear hatch fixed and painted. Then have the whole car buffed. Once you buff the car, it should look pretty close. Nothing buffs out better than red

I used the rattle can for that. The machine shop we use said that the minwax will not yellow over time with the heat or the oil/grease. I used it on my BMW engine parts as well. I drive that daily and the front cover etc still look great!!

I bead blasted all the parts in the 510 and then painted with a light coat of aluminum wheel paint followed with poly satin clear by minwax. I have been told that stuff holds up best on aluminim in an engine bay. here are the pix. before and after

Tamiya/modeling paint will not stand up to the elements. I know from experience

Really b/c my BMW hits the bumpstops from time to time. They are rubber. I can't imagine how bad my teeth would hurt if I bottomed out on poly's

I wouldn't think that you would want poly bumpstops. My 510 has all poly bushings and most of my BMW bushings are poly. I love it. Everyone told me it would be too loud and too harsh. Hogwash!!! Definitely makes it ride tighter. May be a little more uncomforatable over potholes and cobblestone but normal driving should be very nice. Just be sure to grease the bushings unless you want a symphony of squeaks

Absolutely love your car Fred!!!

Good luck. Just be sure to mist the ground as well as anything else you can before painting in a shop. Otherwise you will have a textured paintjob from dust

Haha. I was excited when I thought my dad said he needed one of those for the garage. I thought he meant the GTR not the old school Snap on clock

Gira..... How much fun is that GTR???? I am sick with jealousy

Indeed. You definitely want to do the soda blasting somewhere that you don't mind the mess. It is bio-degradeable though

Caen Fred.... I want to see larger pics of your car. I love it!!! Didn't see any photos of it in your gallery.

Bryce. Check the last two posts I made in this thread. I am not sure if he can help with suspension bolts but I would bet he can. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30989&page=2

Anything from that guy is a bad deal. Especially when you get raped on shipping

Very cool. Nice job on the stripe. I started this thread a while back when I built these for my dad http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28510