Giedrius

Check out http://www.courtesyparts.com/nismo/s30/

I've done it myself, so I can vouch for this method. It works only if the lug nut is exposed and it's not hidden in the deep lug nut well. I used this method, because I was unable to hammer on a cheap socket onto the lug nut. Buy a good cold (metal) chisel from Sears. If you breake it, they will replace it. Bring a good hammer. What you do is place the chisel onto the edge of the lug nut at an angle and hit it with the hammer. The chisel will dig into the lug nut. After few good whacks, the lug nut should start turning. Make sure you do it in counter-clockwise direction and make sure the chisel can dig into the lug nut well enough so it wouldn't chisel off the edge of the lug nut. Hope this helps.

Try Victoria British I have to get some rear hatch weather stripping and they seem to be least expensive. You may have to order a catalog first or just call them. G

Good Tire Size Calculator and Comparison You can compare the size of the tires and speedometer errors.

Mperdue, here is one explanation I got on Zcar.com forum: <quote> Assume that the circumference of the rear tire is 4 feet. If you had a differential ratio of 1:1 then every time the drive shaft rotated once the rear wheel would rotate once and the wheel would move 4 feet. So at 1000 RPM the wheel would move 4000 feet per minute. If you had a differential ratio of 2:1 then every time the drive shaft rotated once the rear wheel would move 2 feet. So at 1000 RPM the wheel would move 2000 feet per minute. If you had a differential ratio of 3.9:1 then every time the drive shaft rotated once the rear wheel would move 1.02 feet. So at 1000 RPM the wheel would move 1020 feet per minute. If you had a differential ratio of 4.11:1 then every time the drive shaft rotated once the rear wheel would move .97 feet. So at 1000 RPM the wheel would move 970 feet per minute. Wayne Monteath Masham, Quebec. <end quote> I really like reading all the differential/transmission related posts, since I have Nissan Motorsports 4.444 LSD and I am debating if I should put it back in my car or not. Also, spedometer gear that's matched for it is green with 23 teeth. I never seen that one listed anywhere. Giedrius

Way too cool.

Good show! It really confirms that some ricers have no brain.

Royce, I'd probably go with 15" just because there is larger supply of 15" tires in certain size. It was really hard for me to find 225/60/14 tire for the rear, since the size is kinda odd. But I like the 14", they are "time period correct" :-) Mirror is adjustable, so you can see more than a fender, but it still not the greatest. I keep turning my head just to make sure there are no cars before I get over. The mount is flat, so I is the door where it's mounted, so no problems with mounting there.

Yep, polyurethane bushings all around. They kinda squeek in the back, because suspension is really tight. I haven't started the brake upgrade yet, I am doing some research first. Next Sunday I am going to get rear disc brake calipers and mounts from '82 280ZXT donor car for my future upgrade project. I am not sure about the front 4 caliper brakes yet. There isn't much room between existing calipers and the wheel. Spacers would be needed. However, if I choose to go with the upgrade, stainless steel hoses will be #1 choice. G

Hi all! I just registered at this site, and I wanted to share pics of my Z with the rest of you. Car has '72 SU carburators with K&N filters, E31 cylinder head, 3-into-2 headers with freeflow exhaust, KONI springs and heim joints, '77 5 speed tranny, UK's Revolution RFX 14x6 wheels, riding on Kelly Charger 205/60/14 front and 225/60/14 rear tires. Car has 61K original miles, original paintjob, interior, etc. Car is manufactured 12/73. Future upgrades that I have in mind are 4 caliper brakes with cross-drilled rotors and oil cooling system. More Pictures