swflaz

I'm having trouble with re hooking up the linkage to my door locks and inside/outside door handle pulls. Any advice?

I appreciate the advice. I'm off to pick some up.

I'm reinstalling the diamond pattern material in my 72Z after removal for paint. Does anyone have a recommendation for the best adhesive to use or maybe also what to avoid using?

Mike, Good point, thanks for the timely info. Rodger

A straightforward question on dashboard installation: Is it any easier to reinstall the dashboard if the windshield is still out. For a couple of reasons I'd like to put the glass in first if I'm not creating any installation problems for myself. Thanks in advance for any relevant tips/thoughts.

Im trying to replace my dash light bulbs while I have the dash out. placement Sylvanias are 12v. 1.9w. and the originals are 14.4v. 3.4w. sounds like they'll be a lot dimmer. Know where I can get the right ones?? Rodger

Thanks guys, just as I feared/suspected.

My windshield is badly pitted and needs to be replaced. The windshield has a Nissan marking on it. I also have a parts car with a good windshield that has a Carlite etching on it. Does anyone know if the carlite was offered as original or has it got to be a replacement? The weatherstipping around it looks pretty old. Trying to keep the car original. Thanks for any help.

James in NZ. Talk about a timely post! I've spent the last couple of days wrestling my new brake lines into place on my 72 240Z. I'm having the same problem with broken insulators and clips. Now I know how to make my own. No doubt some will show up after I'm done. Thanks all. Rodger

I got mine from Gwinnett Nissan in the Atlanta area. Can't remember the price but they were about 30% cheaper than my local Nissan dealer. They have been great to deal with and have a good internet parts ordering system. The P/N again is 11320-N3200 as Arne previously said.

I got the blue paint from Les 2 months ago for about 28 per can. The block looks great. I'm a believer.

This is probably in the nits and grits category but I want to get the engine and transmission on my 72 to their original colors. On my transmission it looks like the steel adapter plate (assembled you just see a 3/4" wide steel band) at the end of the transmission case has some faded blue on it. Does anyone know if it was originally painted the same Datsun blue as the engine block? As always, any help would be appreciated.

I had the same problem a few months ago. Finally found a guy with a parts car who cut out the hatch sill piece and sent it to me. I had it welded in and it looks great. FWIW

I'll take one as well. 1972z. mfg 12/71. Thanks for your efforts so far. This sounds like a winner.

FWIW, I was able to find a guy with a parts car who cut it out and shipped it to me. Cost was $85. It's welded in now and the install looks great.

I'm in need of the engine compartment metal part that supports the battery. The part that is welded to the engine compartment wall. I've seen one available as an aftermarket part somewhere but can't seem to relocate it. Any help would be appreciated. Ready to go to paint in the next 2-3 weeks. Thanks

Zero Z. Wow, that's a beautifull car, thanks for the photos. My original color was the lime green and I've had the car since '78. Thought it was time for a change but I may have to reconsider.

Thanks for the input guys, that's great. I think that's the yellow I'm going for. Also gives me a color number for the paint guy to match. Great pics.

I'm within 2 weeks of having to finalize on a paint color for my 1972 240z. The original color was the yellow (lime). I want to stay with a factory original color but not that one. I'm leaning toward the 1971 yellow but haven't seen any full size pictures of that color on a car. I've seen one yellow that's pretty dark and another one that's much lighter. Don't know which one is original. Any good pics you can share? PS, I've owned this one since 1978. Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll look into the Eastwood product. I've also used a product called Econorust that does a good job of rust removal as a first step (you have to submerge the item, can't just paint it on). It's good to see more "red" names every day. This site has saved me from taking a lot of wrong turns and I think we should all give something back when we can. End of sermon.

Good thought. Any judges out there??

Regarding the manifold finish survey hls30 ran back in sept: the jet hot process got a lot of votes. My question is whether that could be considered "stock" in an original car show. Looks great. "Real" original would seem to be the rusty crusty cast iron.

I got parts from zed findings and Baddog as suggested. The body man did an excellent welding job and they fit and look great. Driver's side pan turned out to be OK. Thanks again everyone for the great suggestions. swflaz

Justin, thanks for the fuel tank suggestion. I've already sent it out for cleaning and coating. There was minimal rust. The guy put some pieces of chain inside and rattled them around for a while to knock loose any rust paticles then coated the inside with a product simply called Tank Liner. He says he's been using it for 15 years and hasn't had any call backs. Cost was $75 which I considered to be a bargain. I'll let everyone know how the brake lines from classic tube work out in my case. They're about 4 weeks out from shipping.

Thanks for all the good cleaning/plating ideas everyone. Just discovered the classic tubing option today and am now leaning in that direction after thinking about line deterioration after 34 years. Hope I have better luck with fit than Justin apparently did. Yes, I am doing the fuel lines as well.