m4xwellmurd3r

the water temp sensor is perfect (checked at ECU) the injectors are firing, fuel indicates it. I do have spark (checked by setting a plug on the engine to see if it sparked) if i held it to the floor, it had a very small amount of life, but never enough to fire up. it WON"T start even on starter fluid. after a while of cranking it, etc, it won't even have that little blip of life. I've got a VERY strong feeling my sparkplugs are totally fuel fouled. (of course, i DID run it over 200 miles running it so rich it smoke screened. after i cleaned the connectors a bit, it still smoked, but not much. I'll bet that it was a coincidence that it crapped out at the same time i cleaned it. who knows though. I'll find out when i get a new set of NKG's (instead of crappy autolites)

sure the v8 swap is cool and is mean/fast/wicked but you lose the sound of the L6 running at 6000rpm singing it's heart out. the tone of a zed's L6 will keep me wanting the L6 to stay. Whenever i punch the gas and pick up the rev's, that engine start's singing a beautiful song that no other 6 cylinder has ever sung before. (except right now she's not singin...damn rich issue)

well the cold start valve doesn't leak (took it out and turned on the pump) but it is busted, i can't get it to kick on with my battery. It does hold pressure it seems, (kicked an injector on and could hear the fuel spraying) the plugs are black, and were deffinetly soaked in fuel. i'm wondering if somehow i ****ed up when i cleaned the connections with vinegar, though, that doesn't seem likely.

it sounds like a lack of fuel to me. i'm having a problem with flooding though, i THINK the cold start valve is broken and is stuck wide open, because the car won't hold fuel pressure. the fpr is fine, and none of the injectors leak. I freaked out because this started after i had cleaned my water temp sensor plugs with vinigar to get rid of teh corrosion (which did a good job of cleaning them) I tried jumping the cold start valve with a 9v and nothing happend. thought the batt was dead, so i jumped an injector, and it clicked like it should. go back to the cold start, no sound. this thing is running so rich that it won't fire, and when i did get lucky enough to fire it up, i had trouble keeping it at 500rpm with the gas to the floor. it IS getting spark, that was one of the first things i checked to see if it was a fuel delivery problem, or a flooding problem. would a busted cold start valve cause it to flood this badly?

there's one out by where i live at a used car dealership, one owner besides the dealer, with an l28, but i believe a 4spd. found the craigslist for it. 4900 though there were closer pictures on their website, imo it's in good shape

if it comes one when you turn it to the on position it means your relay is bypassed. the wires are under the passenger carpet behind the seat, but they may be bypassing it at the other end (don't knwo where it goes) take a look at a wiring diagram and you'll figure it out ^^ on the 77 i think the afm kicks the pump on. on the 78 the oil pressure sender does.

today i'm taking care of all the corrosion with vinigar. scraping and scrubbing wasn't enough, so i've gone to chemicals ^^ i agree though, mine does have problems (what 30 year old car that sat for years doesn't?) I'm just glad i've found all of them so i can fix them. it just sucks that i can't find a shop to fix my tank. i can't do it at home since i live in an apartment complex.

i've only heard that they are. but like hell am i going to push it to 100+mph to find out on public roads. other than that it's fine. i only mentioned the corrosion and vacuum leaks incase when he get's one, it's something that simple and not something more severe like it may seem. mine starts up right away and runs fine, but in AZ it's hard to find someone who will boil and line a tank. I haven't found anyone yet so i have to bandaid it like that....(i'd rather not, but until i find a shop that will boil my tank i'm stuck) i got the gear ratio info from here zhome as well from 77-79 the 4spd and 5spd had the same 1st through 4th. (according to the article) (anyways, sorry about earlier)

now that i'm looking at the options, i think i might go with the 6in1 header with the premium exhaust for it. i should be able to get it in a month or 2 if things go ok when i emission test my car next week (fingers crossed)

i'm only going to pull the front bumper off of my 280. I like the rear bumper actually (it has the over rider bar on it) i know the late model 280's had the 5 speed standard, but it might have still been an option. (5spd was an option, 4 standard if i remember) i just reminded myself something. I need a new pre pump fuel filter (it's a g3 i put in to keep it from messing up the car) it's gotten so full that once the engine is warmed up, it jerks at 4k on up if i go wot. at least i know my car isn't running better because of it. it was blowing a smoke screen of black smoke, then i cleaned up the bullets and the connector for the water temp sensor with an oring pick, and it cleared up a lot. tommorow, the connections are going to soak in a cup of vinigar all day to help clean them up to a brilliant shine hah. oh, i forgot to add iirc, the 4spd and 5spd have the same ratios, but the 5spd has the overdrive in it. so basically the same except the overdrive.

well the 280z is actually less stable at high speeds because of the big front bumper from what i understand. they are a lot heavier, but they also make good power and pull pretty hard. the efi system is easy to work on, however, it's very sensitive to vacuum leaks and corrosion on the connections (my problem right now, damn corrosion) having the 5 speed is also very nice imo. I got my 280 for 900, but i'm sure it's worth more (arizona car, 99% rust free, no damage, no accidents etc...) whatever you do, i'd say go for an az/cali car. chances are, there won't be rust, but massive amounts of dust (especially for an az car)

man, now you're making me want that system more for my 78. I've been eye'ing that exhaust setup for the past month or so.

maybe it was some way for them to say "ok, it passed inspection" and have it be VERY visible?

well the pump SHOULD kick in after you crank it for a bit (on my 78 the oil pressure sender kicks it on) what i did to figure out what was wrong, was i pulled off the tps plug, and the cold start valve. my car's still running really rich, but it runs ok. In my case, it's VERY corroded water temp sensor plugs (the bullets are a bit corroded too) any corrosion on those will cause the car to run horribly rich. and the tps will cause it to run even more rich, since the tps make it run RICHER (basically) i unplug the cold start valve to make sure it isn't on while i'm checking things.

you want the engine to be able to PULL a vacuum from the booster, so if i remember, you want the black port to go TO the engine from the line. the arrow is showing the flow of vacuum it seems.

it got crushed righ? you saved the vin plate though right? XP i kinda think all Z's that get crushed, must have their door jam vin plate saved so we can make a proper memorial for them ^^ (though i'm not sure about the legality)

unplugged the cold start valve to see if that was the issue. replaced the head temp sensor, that seemed to help a bit. i'm gonig to clean up the head temp sensor plug. I believe it may be an issue with my AFM though. it got so rich that it nearly would die out, then when i got home, it was running so lean it would nearly die out. now i'm having trouble starting it and the fuel pump relay isn't kicking in. if i bypass the relay, it still won't start. I replaced the plugs yesterday actually. so, i'm wondering if the afm is messed up. I've got a refurbished bosch afm, but i'm missing the plate on front to attach it to my filter box. should i just toss it on with no filter to see if it works? would i tmake sense for an afm to go bad by having a weak spring, thus making the ecu think it needs MORE fuel, but then have the carbon traces wear out to the point where the car detects no flow?

so, i think the fans bad. i let it get warm, cut it off and it was still really really easy to turn anyways, my car's having a serious problem that i can't diagnose. i was driving it to get it nice and warm, and i was accenerating onto the on ramp (turning ramp) and all of a sudden i lost power. I couldn't figure it out at all. i hit the gas and it would bog down, let go and it would backfire a bit. it was acting like it used to (when it ran really lean) except it was running really rich. i currently have the tps unhooked because i need to replace/adjust it, but it never acted like this before. plugging it back in makes no difference, and i'm having problems starting it. (actually i currently can't start it) ugh...

i'm actually going to take the compressor belt off too. the ac has 0 pressure in it from what i can tell. I'm just having trouble pulling it off the condensor. anyways. the a/c doesn't work, so it's dead weight, thus, i'm ripping it out. my fan isn't seized, i think it might be the opposite if that's even possible (is it?)

another possible issue WHOS BRIGHT IDEA WAS IT TO PUT A CONDENSOR OVER 2/3 THE SIZE OF THE RAD?!?!?!?! omfg this thing is HUGE. it's about 1 1/2 in thick, about twice the DENSITY of the rad, and it looks like a dual coreish thing (2 rows of copper tubing, tightly packed) not only that, only about 3-4 inches on the sides and bottom of the rad is exposed to free air!! the a/c doesn't work, so i'm rippin that sucker out. and, is it possible to rebuild the fan clutch?

doing all that i did helped a lot, but it's still overheating after a while. is it possible that the clutch for my fan is worn out and won't lock up correctly? also, i still have the a/c unit, but i don't need it. the condensor thing is in front of the rad, could that also cause the problem?

my dad had some 45's that he used to use on his vw to race, then upped it to 48's my mom's ghia had 35's, and I HAD a set of 40's till my dad decided NOT to build me a new engine after the one that was in it blew up since it was so worn out, then blamed me for it. I always see these triple webbers, and i've always wanted to see someone do a triple dellorto setup

I suppose, but it also depends on where you live I'm in arizona, so i expect a nearly rust free car. surface rust is ok, but i expect to have nearly 0 cancerous rust that i'd have to cut out. You on the other hand, live up north, where there would be more rust, so my standard would be expecting too much compared to yours (whether or not that's true, i don't know. I just used it as an example)

I know. I already delt with the rain once. So, i've pulled of every hose for the cooling system. and I'm glad i did it tonight. I found that the hoses going to the heater housing were dry rotted, and that one of them had totally eroded away, and was close to eroding through! I understand what you mean about the battery now. i was more talking about flushing the engine rather than the rad. I may have the rad cleaned at a shop, but i'll replace the hoses that are required to be replaced (due to age) then see how it goes. the coolant didn't look too bad, muggy, but all of it was coolant and there wasn't a rusty tinge to it either i've got ANOTHER question. what would cause the front right wheel to sit a little over an inch too far forwards? bad t/c bushing? I know it's not the frame or anything. the car had obviously never been in any sort of accident, but it seems more or less that the bushings are dried out.

I know. I worded what i said wrong. it has 2 water lines hooked to it, then the thermal vacuum valve is attached to that, which has the vacuum lines attached. anyways, funny story i was having problems starting my car because of the fuel issue, so my battery drained brought it to checkers to charge, waited about 5 minutes. woman said "sorry, the battery's toast and isn't taking charge" I think, bs, i just drained it by running the starter too much so i put it back in the car, let the fuel pump run a little while (bypassed the relay) and started it. it took a little while (because of the fuel issue) and it fired up. I wonder if their charger's meter is busted, because from what she said, it did have and should have 0 charge, when in reality, it WAS taking a charge. i let it run for about 10 minutes so it would recharge. the battery IS 3 years old, but, i don't have the money to buy a new battery, when i have other things on this car to fix first. it charges fine. too, despite the original (i think?) alternator. i'm going to flush everything tomorrow. is there some sort of solution i could put in (besides a coolant flush) to help break up any corrosion? maybe a solution of distilled water and vinegar??