MEZZZ

Migt be too late since you already ordered the product, but here is a great article about different products. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com BTW, I went with 60 yards of eDead V2 for $70 delivered.

Thats not the magic answer I was looking for here Stephen I was hoping you would say...Oh, trace the white/blue wire and plug it in and your done Well, I am off work next week, my wife is not, my son is going to daycare, so I have 5 days, 8 hours each to read and figure this thing out. Thanks as always.

I am a novice at best at this and I have been doing alot of reading both online and via the FSM and F.I. Manual. I am trying to track down the reason my car will not start. To recap to date, I have replaced the following, fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor, ignition coil, injectors and connectors, fuel pressure regulator, battery and every visible vacuum hose and injection hose I could find. The car started but ran poorly before I changed out the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It still ran poorly afterwards. I pulled the A.F.M. to clean/check connection and after that, I cant get it to fire, just crank. I tried succesfully to get it to fire using starter fluid. I have juice at each plug and the fuel pump runs when I pull the wire to the solenoid. I can hear the fuel pump run and the new fuel pressure regualtor kinda hiss momentarily and make a slight buzzing noise. I have not performed a fuel pressure test but when taking the fuel line off past the filter, it came hissing out telling me that I at least have to have some type of pressure. Therefore I am thinking the problem lies somewhere electrical in nature concerning the injectors. I found the fule injection relay under the dash and after my brother changed it around thinking I had it plugged in backwards, i figured out the correct way and corrected that. Still would not fire. Tonight I got the manual and did the fuel pump check as outlined in the car wont start part of the FI manual and it checks out. My next step was to check power at the relay. I used a test light vs. a multimeter and at the fuel pump relay, testing the connector with the key set at the "on" position, 3 of the wires are hot. I am thinkiing that is because as you turn the key to start, it fires others and then diverts some to the AFM when the key returns to "on". The problem is this. I tested the connector for the power relay with the key on, touching all connectors, I get no light. Then I tried each again while cranking the car and still got no light. Like I said, I am a novice to this, learning as I go but think this might be a problem Can someone (sblake01 perhaps) guide me as to what to do from here? Fusible links coming off the battery going into the injection harness? I tried testing the positive one at the connector and it arced pretty good when I grounded it. Is there anywhere else I should look? I have read the FI manual and have not yet started testing all the connectors at the ECU. I pulled up the FSM for a '77 last night and to be honest, got a little lost. As always, any help is appreciated.

Thanks for the update. From the booth pic it looks like it was going to be darker than it turned out. Still looks nice but I was thinking more along the lines of the Honda behind the car in the first picture. My car has a terrble silver paint job on it now, I am still leaning towards a darker metallic. Im sure you are happy that it has come along this well...congrats!

, I was just looking at the same thing, I had the wiring diagram saved in a couple places on my hard drive. You are right, I am by far an expert at reading wiring diagrams, but I see no blue wires, just green, red and black. Thanks for taking the time to send it though. Since you helped me discover I have a P79 head on my car, I am now wondering if maybe they changed out other things as well? Maybe the harness or ECU? I did look at my AFM and it does have a 7 pin connector on it. I am going to have to bite the bullet and check step by step through the FI manuals troubleshooting steps. Can you tell me this much Stephen, should I have power at the injectors with the key in the on position? Thanks...

Stephen, Thanks for the reply. I opened up the FSM and it is entitled 77_datsun_280z.pdf. I found the photo and cut and pasted it into here. I found it in page EF-14 The wire with the electrical tape wrapped around it? It is speaker wire, or so it appears. Clear insulation on both sides. It was wire capped at the end, sitting in the driver side tool box, just laying there. I have not yet unwrapped the tape to see where it is attached but it is obviously spliced into the harness coming from the ECU. I am bound and determined to figure this thing out! According to the F.I. manual, my next step is to pull the lead ignition wire and check with a test light, then go on from there checking the ecu harness and the various pins. One thing I did check yesterday which makes no sense. First, with both black and white connectors off, I still could start with starter fluid. My brother just wanted to try for the heck of it and it did fire momentarily. Then, with the connectors plugged back into the relays, I took a multi meter, with the key on, and checked for power at one of my injectors. I got nothing. So after I plugged the connectors into what I think is the correct way, black plug on bottom, I turned on the key, checked for power at the #6 injector and still nothing. Shouldnt I get something with the key on? I have fuel in the rail to be sure, spark at the plugs. I have to since it fires momentarily using starter fluid, I am not getting anything at the injectors. Keep in mind, I am only beginning my learning here, so any advice is more than welcome.

I just got back from the garage (my wife and daughter went shopping ) and decided to try to figure it out myself. I took the plugs off the relay and looked at them, one had one more wire on it than the other, 5 vs. 6. I then looked at the number of connections on each relay and figured out that the black plug should be at the bottom of the unit, opposite of what the photo shows and what my brother did in swapping them. I carefully matched them up with the relay, plugged them in, cranked the car and...nothing! I pulled out the injection manual and did the first step which is pulling the lead off the solenoid and turnng the key to start in an attempt to hear the fuel pump and pressure regulator. That test was successful, I heard the fuel pump turn on and the prssure regualto kinda pssstttt sound. I have a brand new regulator and the old one was not clamped going into the intake at all, so I clamped the injection hose down when I installed it. Thats as far as I got with the exception of trying to turn the key to on and then start while placing my hand over the power relay and felling for a "click". I fell a little something when I cranked the car, not sure if I would call it a click it not as I feel the same thing on both plugs. Tomorrow is another day.

I still have not been able to get my car started and downloaded and printed out the fuel injection manual Saturday in hopes of narrowing down the problem. I had my brother over yesterday and we were talking and he decided to look at my car and read over the manual. I had told him how a few months ago I had been under the dash and unplugged the relay harness. A week later when I tried to start the car it wouldnt start, then I remembered I had unplugged the relay. He asked while looking at it "Did you maybe not plug it back the same way". He looked and told me while he was under the dash, the plugs are the same and depending on which way you turn them, they can go either top or bottom. He swapped them around and told me they fit either way, now I cannot remember what order they were in. I did a search of the F.I. Manual as well as the F.S.M. and they only show a drawing and do not mention which plug goes where, only one is the power relay and one is the fuel pump relay. From the diagram, it appears the fuel pump relay is the top. I just dont know if the black or white plug is the correct one. Can anyone tell me if the black plug goes on the top or bottom of the relay? Also, when ripping out the old carpeting, I found a peice of speaker wire that was coming from the general vicinity of the relay bracket. It was wire nutted and just laying in the driver side tool box of the car. At the time I figured it was a speaker wire that a P.O. had done in the past ans someone just left it laying in there. Upon looking yesterday at the relay, we traced the wire up to the wires coming out of the ECU harness. If you look at the photo, you will notice a wire with electrical tape running in front of the ECU and up into the harness. Now I am perplexed as to what this may have been. My first guess was a wire running back to the fuel pump, but it is on the driver side of the car. I left it hanging out of the car with the intent of taking it out and rolled my car out of the garage and inadvertantly over the wire. It tore right where it was coming out of the door. I am thinking maybe I pulled something out of whack in the harness and maybe thats why it wont start now. If I had swapped the relay positions when I plugged it in last winter, could I have caused damage to the relay perhaps? Maybe the ECU? The car did start last winter after plugging it in. Any help, as always, is appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

Whats up with the first pic? Is that a ghost? I've been waiting to see what it looks like with the silver "knocked down" a bit with the black. Post more pics when you get them.

I seem to be having the same problem with my car, starts with starting fluid and thats it. I downloaded the Fuel Injection manual and printed it out a couple days ago. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ectionbook.pdf Here is a link, looks to be very well written and might help you out. I am only now to the troubleshooting section.

I agree, I like red if painting calipers and you have the right wheel to go along with the look, drums in red look horrible IMHO. I vote stick with black or silver.

Justin, I agree, very nice kit, I too was impressed with the quality and how nicely everything was packaged. Did you install them yet? If not, check out my thread on what I did in place of the rubber boots over the connectors, it may be of interset to you, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=31127

I agree Will. When I first read many years ago that Nissan was resurrecting the Z and it was said that they would not stray far from the original concept. A 2 seater, with great handling, quick acceleration and a decent price. I saw several sketches and some were at least slightly reminiscent of the 1st gen car. Then they came out with the 350? It wasnt love at first sight for me but I do admit, they have grown on me over time. I would love to see a retro model, not quite as radical as the mockup but along the same lines.

Ok, see if I can talk my wife into using her new camera That wasnt too bad...3 minutes later and here they are...isnt technology wonderful? Here you go Dan, Not the best shot, I tried to get closer and it would get a bit fuzzy, havent played with her new Sony 7 meg much and dont ahve the patience either... I went to Advance Auto and picked up a pack of assorted heat shrink tube, the largest(about 3/4 inch wide) was blue, would have preferred black but didnt feel like driving all over looking for it. It had a 3 to 1 shrink ratio and tightened up very nicely around the base but didnt shrink tight around the top of the wire. So I slipped another piece over the blue, and shrunk that up tight around the wire, each piece I cut to about 2 inches in length. Then I used the black 6 inch long piece to go over everything after I soldered the new connectors on. It beat the he!! out of going without since I couldnt find the rubber boots. Unfortunately, I still cant get her to fire. I took the kind of stupid step of replacing alot of parts, but from the looks of them, they needed it anyway, i.e, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, all vacuum and injection hoses. Since I had the rail off doing the injectors, I replaced all the hose and used all new injection clamps and bought a new fuel pressure regulator for the heck of it. Then I bought a new ignition coil (MSD Blaster 2), it happened to be on sale and then today splurged for a new battery as mine didnt seem to crank too long before running out of juice. Brought it today to be tested, told me it might take an hour, thought screw it, my time is worth something, just give me a new one. Now I have printed out the fuel injection manual and will start my education on the system. So far I have checked each plug for spark (have it), pulled the line past the filter and have fuel and pressure as it comes squirting out. It fires with starting fluid so I am thinking it is fuel related. I am suspect now of possibly the fuel relay or ECU. I have read the F.I. manual and will begin going through the trouble shooting section trying to figure it out.

Thanks for the link Stephen, I remember reading that one awhile back in one of my many, many searches on here. Hopefully, the heat shrink wrap holds up, it appears to be extremely tight around the base of the connectors.

I have a couple on my car. They are on that top radiator hose and are used to help hold up a couple wires over the fan. I have no fan shroud on the car so the P.O. probably put them there.

Thank you. Stephen, I did the same thing wehn soldering, I marked each wire with a piece of tape so to make sure not to cross them. I read once it didnt matter which went to what side, I figure it if did, they wouldnt have made them both black. The only thing lacking in that kit I bought were the rubber boots that go down over the connector. I could not find them anywhere. My old ones were dry, cracked and rotted, one reason I wanted to replace them. In searching online, I came across a link to a Jaguar site and saw a picture of a guy that used heat shrink tube in place of the rubber boot. Long story short, I did this and it turned out great. Very tight seal around the connector. Then I took a smaller diameter over that and shrunk it around the wire nice it tight, then finally another 6 inch piece over the whole thing. I ended up putting the injectors facing the center of the motor, 3 one way, 3 the other. Thanks again.

Does it matter which way the connector part of the injector is facing? I cant remember for sure which way mine were all facing when I removed them 10 days ago. I made a mental note but it seems my photographic memory isnt what it used to be I could swear that 1-2-3 were facing towards the rear of the car, 4-5 the front and six towards the rear again. Honestly, I am not sure if it even matters. I tried to look at some photos and have seen them turned all one way and other photos where they are going in opposite directions. I carefully marked the wires while removing them and when I soldered new wires, I made sure that I didnt cross anything up. Any help is appreciated.

I would suggest buying a product called POR-15. I bought mine on Ebay. The only thing is it is meant to go on bare metal, meaning you would have to strip the spare tire area using a wire wheel on a drill or the sort. Once you do that, use the marine clean, then metal ready, then the paint. Stuff is hard as nails and should prevent any further problems. I bought the 3 part "sample" kit (pint of each) for about $20 bucks, would be a great size for what you need to do.

Stephen, as always, nice to hear your valued repsonse. I will install them hopefully this weekend and let you know. The guy has almost 1000 transactions on Ebay and has maintained 100% rating. I like the video he made showing the process, I remember seeing somehting similar by a guy that calls himself the injector doctor or soemthing of the sort. I pulled out the report dated 6-18-08 from when he redid them and they are all within 1% vs. the 2% in his ad. I figured for the money, it was worth trying, about the same money as buying some aftermarket injectors and they did not come with all the other items.

The injectors I ordered from Ebay came today. They were shipped FAST, packaged with great care, vacuum packed and look just as it does in the photo. I havent gotten around to installing them yet but they look fantastic. Everything was included to swap them out, even solder for the connectors and an allen wrench for the holder screws. The only parts I dont like are the connectors, they are of the cheaper variety, I may order the quick release type from MSA. For the price, they appear to be the way to go, matched to 2% of each other and a computer printout included with the sale. Here is a link for anyone interested, $143.30 total with shipping (I had a 10% off Ebay coupon) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190231310169&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=009

Its not dumb to me at least, buying a car across country is what I did about 8 months ago. You are at the total mercy of the seller at this point and must take his word about the condition, mileage, etc. There are services available that will go and check out the car for you and give you a full report, pricing varies depending on ditance traveled, etc. Or, you can do what I wish I had done and see if there is a member on this site that lives close enough to check it out in person for you. I WISH I had found this site before buying my car, (Oregon to Cincinnati). After posting my horror story I had a few members that said they would have gone to look at it as they lived in the same city (Salem, oregon) or close enough to pay the previous owner a visit. Had I done that, I would have saved $4,000 plus almost another grand in shipping costs for a car that was purchased four weeks prior for $1,750! Needless to say I got screwed BIG TIME! Learn from my mistake and have someone look at the car for you! I hate admitting I was taken for a FOOL, but if it saves another on here from doing the same thing, I will harp on my sad story every time! Good luck!

I've seen seats from tiem to time pop up for sale, have you looked at the classifieds here or possibly Ebay. I pondered with the seat upgraded and ended up going stock. I have a 280 and didnt have the trap issues to replace. I ended up buying new foam kits anf the new upholstery and doing them myself. It wasnt that bad actually. You will need a pair of Hog ring pliers and some hog rings though. Only place I could find them was a place called Tractor Supply. I think the whole thing ended up just south of $400 to redo them.

Stephen, you were the convincing one, I value your opinion and knowledge on this board greatly. Between you and the fact the seller has 100% feedback on 990 sales, I went ahead and pulled the lever and used the buy it now. I also had a 10% coupon that Ebay sent earlier this week burning a whole in my pocket so the total with shipping came to $143.40. I will post the results once I get tehm installed, hopefully with a big 2 thumbs up.

Thanks for letting me know about the difficulty in the matching a set up. I will probably buy them tomorrow unless some people on here would chime in with reasons against buying a reconditioned set. The ad reads nicely and from the photos it looks to be a great deal, I am just not that well versed on this. I spent the past hour reading the EFI Bible, trying to familiarize myself with how things operate in an attempt to figure out my non starting problem. One thing for sure, if I buy these I will not install until after I figure out the current issue. I dont want too many things going on at once.