visionary

the ploly bushings contributed to the reduction of clunking not because they are ploy rather because of corrected alignment of the moving components. i have balanced, rebuilt and replaced half shafts, u-joints; installed solid mounts, etc. the sum of the total is directly proportion to the factored input. i will stay with the poly, machined metal and fabricated updates. they work... i also enjoy my 4channel 150 watt cd player over original mono am... i have learned a great deal from this thread, thanks again for all the great input

The bearing grease has stopped the squeaking, but, I will try one more time with a silicone lubricant. concerning the ride and handling, it is true. the handling is much more positive and the ride is improved a thousand percent. I have replaced all of my bushings with poyurethane on the car. one thing that has also improved substantially is the "clunking" from the rear end. i also installed the tension arm kit from motorsport as well and the alignment and positive feel in the steering wheel is very noticable as well. the car has an 'updated' feel to the ride and handling and is very solid. sorry about the delay in responding... keith

Hi, I just had the same problem on my passenger door. I had replaced the screws for the lock and had put the incorrect screws in the door. check your screw lengths. i had put in the "long" screws (about 1/2 inch or so) but you need to have the "short" screws otherwise the threads will inhibit the travel of the lock rod action. when i replaced the screws with the shorter thread screws it allowed the lock rods to complete their throw and i was able to adjust the handles, etc. my door will not lock when open but does lock when closed. i had to turn the lock mechenism to the locked position with the door open in order to get the lock cylinder rod connecter in the correct possition to allow the knob rod connector to acutuate... good luck keith

hello gentlemen, does anyone have the magic tech app for the poly urethane rear control arm bushing "squeak". i have greased the bushings with bearing grease which has diminished the problem. i have not been able to elimate the issue. it is worse in lower, below 50 degrees, temp... thanks keith

does anyone out there have any cures for the 'squeak' after installing polyurethane rear control arm bushings. i have reduce the squeak completely on the right rear by greasing them with bearing grease but have only reduce the problem on the left rear.... any magic tricks would be appreciated

hasn't happened to me BUT i have seen them. i got the short course in selection and alignment prodecure from kym at idaho z car. he has a 170 mph '70 240 that has won nationals on the quarter mile. his recommendation is the nissan part. they are substantially more expensive but the peace of mind is worth the investment. when you replace the joints it is best to replace all of the joints. it is also essential to balance the drive shaft and the half shafts and align the transmission to differential to the shaft with a solid shaft prior to installation of new joints. the stress from ' out of round' turning increases failure dramatically. i use a solid differential mount to reduce torque flex on the drive line as well. the increase in noise transfer is minimal, however, at certain speeds the harmonics do transfer throught the frame and rear end mounts to the interior. keith

that is a tough decision. I would Drive both cars hard and loo\k at the mods available based on what you ulimately want to drive. I have a 73 with alot of mod and 12,000 $ later it is begining to really be a fine automobile. The early Z's are very different the the later models. However, there are fantastic performace enhancements for both. Classic cars are very individual and meet very indidvidual requirments. Keiht

never mind, I downloaded, nice work though. It seems to me that that type mod is a complete rehab. There is nothing in common between the 79 and 70-73 wiring because of additional wiring requirements and design changes. Big money or mucho time or both would accomplish the task. I would spend the money on the founding unit as killer suggested, the rest is up to your imagination. Keith

Hey killer, I have no idea about the dash swap out, however, it is prety obvious why you don't like the consumer version. What I want to know is... what year is the second dash and how do I do this to my '73? It is a killer keith

Sorry guys, I made a mistake on the "pods". There are two pod type switches. One is for the indicators and the other is for the hazards. There are several different wiring harness with different connectors and pod types based on early and late model 240 z's. I have not found a wiring diagram that fits the exact wiring in my car. It seems to be a hybrid of both early and late model harness and component assembly. You computor guys might call this a migration model. I have found that using "best practices" based on real architecture has worked well in determining actual causation. Good luck... keith

Well, You know, it is rather "yucky" to get screwed by the electrical thing. If you remember, I had the single signal failure issue. I applied all of the techniques described at on point or another in the battle. The signal "pods" can cause failure, however it should only be a front or back failiure, there are front and back signal "pods". A fuse or the fuse box is a more likely cause of complete failure or as in my case, the signal switching unit on the column stalk can cause intermitent, partial or complete failure. I disassembled mine, cleaned with solvents and emery cloth, resoldered all connections at the switch and at the fuse box an relubed the moving parts. Amazingly all signals work perfectly now with a very positive "throw". This stalk switch is made of primitive circut materials, inexpensive metal composites and very old solder. Check it out... keith

Okay, I have switched the front cable connectors to the turn signal bulb sockets and now I have parking lights. I also reconnected all of the underdash connection after cleaning and cleaned the rear bulb sockets (they had considerable buildup on them). The battery has been drained to a point that there may not be enough voltage to engage the signals. No signal yet...will charge the battery and update... Also put new bulbs in front signal sockets again. Thanks. Keith

Yeah Carl, I have serveral bulbs and have switched them around. I also have another socket connector ( the one that runs from the harness on the front framerail to the turn signal) and have interchanged those with the same results. I have found that the factory connector from the turn signal switch has begun to melt on the corner that the green/yellow wire connects at and am considering elimating the connector and replacing them with new single wire connectors. This is a difficult failure to figure out. I think there may be short somewhere in the wiring, either at connection points, through the fuse box or from stresses of heat and/or wear within the harness over time. Where, is the direction of diagnosis which I will proceed with. I will begin to run a bypass wire from switch to subsequent connection points on all wires until I can isolate a short point or an unreliable connection route. If that doesn't work, I will throw money at the problem with a professional automotive electrition. Will post any progress... Keith:dead:

Let me keep this simple... I have completed continuity checks on all wires to the turn signal and have continuity in all of the wires, both to the signal switch and to the parking light stalk switch. The turn signal indicator works in the tach, UNTIL, I replace the bulb in the front turn signal socket, THEN the indicator in the tach fails. All bulbs are new, etc. I have not replaced the flasher pod or the hazard flash pod. Hazards work, signal does not work, parking light does not work, turn signal indicator works when turn signal bulb is removed from front socket, turn signal indicator does NOT work with bulb in socket, contiuity check OK on bulb cable socket, rear not malfunctioning... At the risk of being to verbose, I will stop here. Thanks Keith

Latin, we had to take it in high school...

I was responding to EScanlon's remarks concerning diagnostic method. Keith

Sorry about the delay on responses. Have been busy with much ado about nothing. I was using the doctine of double effect otherwise known as the lesser of two evils in my troubleshooting of this problem. However, the principle of Occam's Razor, "pluralitas non est penenda sine necessitate" or dont't create unnecessary entities, was in fact the correct application. Thank you you saved me many troublesome hours of diagnostic torture. Keith:stupid:

Rick, Excellent choice. This spring past we were talking about street tires. I have inexpensive american "BBS" style rims. Only 14x6. I chose the Fulda 205x14x60 until I upgrade to performance rims. Will give periodic test reports. Keith

I assume you have the SU type carb. You might want to read the post from Rick Hanson under the "needles?" subject in this forum. He gives an address and number for a specialist in Colorado. If your mixture adjustment assembly is loose you have problems with the jets and needles, otherwise you would have to post more information about the problem. A conversation with a carb specialist could be the answer. Keith

Mike, I would be interested in any update on the fit of the 280 rubber to the 70-73 240. The weatherstripping I got from MSA had the factory part numbers and stickers on the plastic packaging and the rubber is way to thick. When I do the passenger door I will try some alternative fitting methods, however I don't know when that will be as that rubber is in the garage in Denver and I am in Boise presently. Thanks, Keith

3M makes a weatherstriping adhesive remover. I went out to my garage to find the product code but remembered I had discarded the can earlier this summer. I will try to find the product number. The product should be available any place you can get the 3M yellow "snot" weatherstripping adhesive. It comes in the normal non-descript 3M packaging with the big red 3M logo on it. Like most of the 3M product it works very well. First apply a liberal amount to the old weather stripping and let sit for about 10-15 minutes. This weakened the bonding enough for me to remove the old "hard" weatherstripping but did not completely remove the old adhesive. Re-apply a liberal amount on the remaining adhesive and let stand again. With a little work and good tools you should be able to scrape and rub the remaining adhesive from the bodywork without damaging the paint. Note: If you find a supplier with the black 3M adhesive you will unquestionably find the remover as well. Keith

I have a modification sheet for installing discs from a late, I believe '82, nissan maxima. The mod is very compatable and bolts directly to the suspension. I was also reading a thread the other day that had a diagram for venting the rear drums. I would do the mod if I was going to keep the car. Both are great ideas... Keith:beard: P.S. I will dig out the maxima mod sheet and post the url

When I first bought the car it was unstable at 80mph. The considerable front end lift made the car scary. After installing considerable polyurethane, solid mounts and a complete aero kit the car smooths out at 80 for a very comfortable ride. I haven't pushed passed 115 but it rolls 95 at 4300 rpm. The vibration and lift was not considerable above the century mark, however, over prolonged use close to that speed on two lane, I did experience significant brake fade, even to the point of near complete failure after 30 or 40 minutes. The drums were ringing like a bell, which influenced the onset of caution at speed with this auto. '73 240z Keith

This is the response I have been looking for. I have serveral wiring diagrams for my model and year configuration, however, what I have found to be true is that different systems are wired uniquely. In other words, the A/C wiring matches the diagram out of the Haynes early model S30 diagram whereas the AT matches the late model diagram from Clymer manual. My '73 was manufactured in 11/72 and seems to have different production components mixed throughout the systems. I will pull my meter and long leads with aligator clips out tommorrow evening and pass the data back though this thread A million thanks for the wiring codec. Keith