Travel'n Man

I've got a buddy that owns a Cobra replica, insanely fast with tremendous torque!! I just came back from the Charlotte Motor Speedway Sunday (they had their Fall AutoFair). If you are looking for insane power the Shelby Cobra replicas are the ticket but if you are looking for an original you better be saving your quarters. They go for some big bucks.....$1M+. I also have a buddy that owns an original..........check these out. http://classicfordgarage.com/contactus.html Be sure to click on the Shelbys and the other links..........this is big money!!

What year and how much to ship to 28607?

Reviving this year old thread................?

David- Welcome to the site. There is a ton of knowledge here. Have your grandson come in, sit back, do a little search'n and he will have more reference tools than you can imagine at his fingertips. There are a lot of fine folks with a ton of knowledge. I'm just up the road from you in Boone.......... Enjoy!!

Do you have SU's and are they tuned.....you may need to lean them out some............does it smoke at all?

Will- Welcome to the site. It's always a good thing when the next upcoming generation wants to keep our Z cars alive. I'm sure one of our Penn. members will chime in and give you some information in your area. If you do find a Z car that you are interested in the main info I can share with you is the body work can be the most expensive for you to bring back to life. Even if you have to save up an extra year or so find a body that is in excellent condition (a new engine is a lot cheaper than a $10K-$15K body shop expense to correct rust and replace panels) - unless you or a buddy has the means and tools to do repairs yourself. Do your research on this site, spend the next year learning what to look for and then go buy the car that works for you and your budget. Sometimes on ebay you can find a very clean car that somebody has gotten tired of, or is looking to trade up (even some of our members sell their cars that are in great shape - check out the classified section on this site). Take your time, do your research, and don't get in a hurry. Getting in a hurry can make a fun experience into a very costly on with an extreme amount of body work and mechanical work. A cheap car upfront does not always mean a cheap car at the end. Good luck!!

Regular Joe- If you are modifying it you may want to check out the guys at HybridZ..........they come up with some great ideas as well as extreme mod's. I just used thier idea for a rear end diff correction to finally get the CLUNK out of the diff. Hoping to install over this or next weekend. Have fun meeting the family and use the search feature a lot, odds are, it's already been discussed Get some pictures up so we can see your progress

I went through the archives and tried to find a thread that had nothing but pictures of all the original decals for our Z cars and could not find one thread for that topic. Unfortunatly I do not have any original decals to share but would like to have a link that would referrence all the pictures. 1) Please post what you have so we can have one location for nothing but original decals and placements. If your decal's are not original please do not post your picture. This will be excellent for future reference to see the correct color - font - size - shape - and so forth......again, if it's not orginal please do not post. 2) Please reference the correct placement so we know how they came originally. 3) Please also post the year of your Z car so we know if a placement changed over the years or a particular font or color style. Thanks for the assist!

Great information above. I used all above for my refresh. Plan on taking your time and just go ahead and forget about a budget.........if you do budget you better go ahead and double it..................

Carl- Thanks for sharing your thoughts - IMO this is the most important part of being with Hagerty, agreed value. I have my '72 insured through them $25K and also my '29 Roadster $30K. I hope everybody has their "Agreed Values" adjusted to todays market of restoration shops. They are not cheap and the labor rates just keeps going up and the parts just keep getting harder and harder to find, not to mention the prices............if the members have not looked at their policies to see what kind of replacement values they have set they could be shocked if they do have a claim in todays economy.

Excellent thread..........great work and information!! Beautiful carbs - mine are working great, but don't have the sparkle:ermm:

No need for a comparison. I'm happy with my descision and vendor. I'll be happy to take a free one if you insist though.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Washer-Pump-ACI_5013461-P_335_R%7CGRPWIPEAMS_3096889___

I just heard from the supplier in Japan (I've been buying some of his personal items). This one is printed just like the original and not via an ink jet printer. Afterall - our cars did come from Japan and we all know what American quality is like now a'days........ unforturnatly (I don't own a American Car other than a '76 Jeep Pick up we use in Chritmas Trees). Maybe my decision was not a bad one after all. $22.00 including free shipping vs $8 or $9 + shipping........I may have came out on on the sunny side for both quality and shipping............

I feel like I just took it up the tailpipe ($9 vs $22)....oh, that hurts!:tapemouth

Arne sent me this picture of an original window washer tank decal. I found a reproduction on ebay earlier this week. The match looked great to me. I've got an original tank but no decal. At this time there are 8 left with free shipping. I have purchased mine for my car. If anybody needs one for a restore - refresh here it is. I have not seen these at MSA - Black Dragon - or any other source that I am aware of. $22.00 BIN (Free Shipping)

Ron had some as of last week. I just ordered and got shipping confirmation today via email.

I just purchased the R/T mount - it's due in the week and should have it installed soon. Check out the guys at Hybrid Z.......there are several links dealing with the mount.

Outstanding.........I know the is a lot of blood, sweat, and tears involved........oh yea, did I say money also.

Has anybody came up with a solid solution to this ongoing challange. I had completed a nationwide dealer search for the Nissan part number and called Canada for the part number. There is one hose that is totally out of production that does not exist anymore. WHY IN THE WORLD WOULD NISSAN DO THIS TO A BRAKE PART FOR OUR CARS?

I just installed this spring a set from MSA. I also installed a new interior and these do look great with easy in and out. I do have to agree with the above statement. I am 5'10" and the shoulder belt does rub on my neck as well. I would rather have some protection vs. no protection. That steering wheel would do some damage. Install was very easy unless you have put Dynamat in and covered up your mounting holes.........if so get a nail set and find your screw holes and cut out around them. Let us know your results.

Not trying to steal the thread but I had to say "thanks" to Jon for the tip on the R/T Diff Mount. I ordered one today.............I'm real excited to see if it STOPS THE THUNK. I have already changed out all u-joints and replaced the diff mount........$62 bucks........I'll give it a shot to get rid of that THUNK Again, didn't try to steak the thread but had to say thanks!

Jesse- I gotta thing for slot wheels......can ya tell? You know what my choice is but the confusion is where you say "stock - 4 slot".....Arne is the site pro when it comes to tires and wheels. What ever you do, what ever descision you make, make sure to check your wheel offset......if you don't, you could get the tire rubbing on your outter fender wells which is not cool...........be sure to check that clearence to avoid tire rash with your fenders!! Good luck and get those pictures posted.

Kurk- I have my car insured through Hagerty Insurance for "agreed value" that I established. I always watch ebay to see what a Vintage Z auctions for and that is how I came up with my agreed value (also taking in considerations with my actual reciepts that I have spent on my car. My insured value is $25,000 along with my replacement value. I my car was totaled tomorrow (GOD forbid) I would recieve a check for the total replacement value I have it declared through my carrier. Naturally the more I appraise the car for the more my premium is. I guess my insurance premium is really on the value of the dollar as much as the car.

What weight was that Mobil One?