Diseazd

TDC compression stroke....is the little half moon exactly at 11:30 facing forward? Also, I'm sure you know the rotor rotates counter clockwise......not clockwise.

TDC compression stroke? Big difference.... like Chuck said.....first two cam lobes pointing up when piston is on TDC (compression stroke).

You and the pooch are always welcome Cliff.......Millie would love a pal.

Old vs new ball joints and tie rod ends.....castle nuts torqued 45 to 50 lbs. ........new Tokico shocks go in the strut tubes capped with Eibach performance springs. Next to installing the assembly then the new Wilwoods.

Back when they had a box outside of the patrol car.....I stopped a mile down the road....waited and waited. He said..."you know how fast you were going?......I would have never caught you" wrote me for 85 in a 65. The only black Z in Atlanta....It would have been a risk not to stop.....BTW.....that's as fast as that car would go!

It was a beautiful car.....hand rubbed lacquer....you could shave in it. That car went through radar on 285 in Atlanta clocked at 118.....and the girl.....my first wife

Brings back memories of my first Z back in 71.....wonder why Datsun never did an early Z in black? BTW....I like your blood type!

You guys are "the best"....I love you all!

Don't think so Blue.....too many things going on this year.....would really like to meet all you guys sometime though!

I went with street pads.....not much of a problem on the front brakes, but the rear have a slight dusting. I have Wilwoods all the way around on the green 72.....front only on the white 70, the gold 71 and the silver 73. I never notice any dust from the front brakes at all. Super brakes, vented rotors and lots of area.....for normal street driving, stock brakes are fine if kept up, but the Wilwoods look and work so nice!

.......I figured since I was installing new Wilwoods and had everything apart, I'd replace the bearings (and the dreaded races). Bought a set of bearing race and seal drifts for $25.00......amazing what the right tool does for this job. Drive out the races with a punch....seat em with the correct drift....saves a lot of cussing and destruction. BTW packing the bearings by hand sucks! Next....taking the struts to my machine shop to remove the gland nut....thanks Hardway for keeping me from doing things the hard way!

........I bought my new tie rod ends from Banzai Motorworks, and they look to be the exact dimensions as the OEM, so I broke loose the lock nut (passenger side is normal thread pattern, the driver side, I believe is reverse)......I counted 19 revolutions to remove, so I counted 19 on the way back on for the new one....will still get an alignment when done. (Picture above shows the new tie rod end with yellow paint like original). More to come.....

I decided to start a thread on my front end overhaul since there is many items to replace. Started off by disassembling the suspension parts.....disconnected brake lines (lots of heat needed on some fittings) . Next, remove tie rod end ( tie rod fork and several good blows with a hammer).....then the two bolts attaching the torsion rods to the control arm....next, the two bolts holding the calipers (removed them) and the one nut under the grease cap and remove the rotor, then, the sway bar end link, then remove the three nuts holding the strut under the hood (get someone to help so as not to torque the ball joint connections too much) and lower the strut and remove the last two bolts holding the ball joint to the strut, and remove strut.

Redoing the front end of the 73....new ball joints, tierod ends, Tokico Blues, Eibach and Willwood brakes.

Finished up installing Tokicos, Eibachs and brake parts for the rear of the 73. Just bled the rear brakes. Now on to shocks, springs and new Willwood brakes for the front.

zKars, you are "The Man" when it comes to "giving up" your parts for club members..... you do over and over again.I'm proud to be on the back of Morton's car with you....Good job! Guy

Then.........after lots of work and $$$$$$. See what you have to look forward to

Looks are decieving......this is what we got.....lots of surprises!

http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/auto-parts/all/brake-suspension/mulholland-springs-set-of-4-2351040-165-00-3082.html

You do find em that have been stored sometimes. This 71 hadn't been driven since 79 before it was rescued from the crusher.

Jim.....Beautiful car.....Safari Gold does show the Z's off nicely. Second...Mulholland shocks and springs are a blast from the past! Now those springs really did lower a Z, and the shocks were roadable. I wonder if you search the web, if you could find a set of Mulholland goodies. Back in the 70's, I went with the adjustable Konis instead of the Mulhollands......Now those things would remove fillings, they were so harsh. I also agree that the rubber bushings (stock) are far and away the best choice for the street.

BTW jdbrocious....How about some more pics of your car after you've cleaned it up? It really looks straight and the bumpers are so clean...no dents. I think you've landed a potential jewell! Sorry loudoun .....the tranny and shifter are long gone. Gave em to my friend Eiji.

Regarding your ID plate.....you can call Mike at Banzai Motorworks....he can make a new ID plate with all the right numbers....he'll just need a copy of your title to verify it's real....he'll stamp it just like the factory. It's not my Flickr (my son's) so don't know how to help you out. BTW, your car looks like a really nice starting point for a great resto. The dash looks perfect, a very good indicator. If you're not into spending the bucks to do it right, just drive as it is (out of the rain and garaged). Someone will pay a very good price for a rust free, straight 240Z that can be brought back to perfection.....looks like a car I'd really enjoy restoring, but don't have anymore room for another car. Good luck.....Guy Before and after.....

Your vin plate says nothing about whether the car was auto or 4 speed.....do the swap IMO. Just about everything is the same on the autos and manuals....console, driveshaft etc. The only way you can tell on a good swap is the the clutch hardline...it sits neatly above the other tubes under the hood on the fire wall. Z's were meant to be manuals....IMO it will increase the value if done right....besides, if you are buying for investment, you'll forgo a lot of fun shifting yourself instead of Japan shifting for you. You have to tap on my Flickr pics, but you'll see what I mean.

Success!!!! All's well that ends well. I didn't put em upside down and didn't forget the bump stops. Also, I installed new inner and outer control arm bushings, new stainless brake lines and new brake hoses. Ready to go back together....every project is an exciting venture.....ain't we lucky!