GreenZZZ

Surprised Angry_Dave didn't turn into Homicidal_Dave...

It looks like there are two versions of the lower thermostat housing. The earlier Z's have 1/4" BSP and the later (as reported in the ZTherapy thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=35909&page=4) have 1/2" NPT. The Painless Performance Product's thermostat switch with 3/8" to 1/2" adaptor should fit into the '73/'74 lower thermostat housing without drilling. :cheeky:

Looks like we have different housings! Looking further at the film, it would make sense to increase the ID of the plumbing to deal with the fact that downstream your Z is supplying the EGR and the Carb while mine is only doing the carb. Having a NPT thread is a real plus as you can install a standard 1/2" NPT thermostat switch for an electric fan.

I think I see the issue! Your Z probably hasn't hit a month of 105 degree heat!!! With a sunny day the air coming into the radiator off the pavement could be as high as 120. Holding below 180 is impossible here. I would think most folks in my neighborhood would settle for 210-230. I would love to drive a Z in Hawaii. You are blessed my friend!

For reference, the fuel tank ventilation connection tubes measure 10mm - front right hand side of tank 14mm - left hand side of tank 17mm - rear right hand side of tank This was the only thing I found missing in this reference thread.

I went out and measured the threads and on my '72 it is definitely a 1/4" British Std Tapered Pipe Thread so you would want a 1/4" BSP plug, yes? Outer diameter of a 1/4" BSP is just over 1/2". Main thing is not to use a 1/4" NPT plug which has a different thread per inch count.

This is what I was reading (and writing) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=36524 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=35909&page=3

Best, easy, cheap... Pick two!

I'm a Mallory Unilite fan! http://www.centuryperformance.com/distributor-datsun-l6-240z-280zuniliteva-pr-11545.html

Brakes/Clutch will likely have water in the fluid which means corrosion in the lines and hydraulic parts. Could get pricey. Good practice is to run new fluid in every 1 to 3 years depending on which type of brake fluid you use.

Funny, there are two other threads talking about this right now. General consensus is if you live in Alaska or Montana, you'll want them hooked up, otherwise take them off. Problem is that if you live in the snow belt, you probably have more rust then car...

Great point. What do you think about buying a temperature switch at a higher temperature than the thermostat by say 5 or 10 degrees?

Nice! Reading up on this. I put a thread gauge and tap on the stock thermostat and our Z's have a 1/4" BSP (British Standard Pipe) which has 19 threads per inch. The NPT spec has 18 threads per inch for a 1/4 inch ID pipe. I'm looking around for a 1/4" BSP switch. Like Jim said, the Painless thermostatic switches come with 3/8" NPT. Tapping increases the hole size from a little over 1/2" to 2/3". http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30111

Instead of plugging the carb heat line, has anyone installed an electric fan on/off switch in the thermostat housing. Got this photo from the ZTherapy thread.. That would be pretty slick place to put a thermo-switch. I bet someone has thought of this and figured out what works. Anyone?

If it isn't rubbing, my guess is the left side settles to the right side height after a while.

Actually Bart and Dave's installs. Mine are still in the box

I need some Datsun material science advice. Last years thread talks about fabricating insulators to replace the old rubber for the car's plumbing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29518&highlight=brake+line+rubber What is a good source of rubber for this task? Something like this... http://www.amazon.com/Superior-18-1701-Rubber-Spring-Booster/dp/B00029K20M/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3 or maybe this http://www.jewelrysupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20399