GreenZZZ

Hmm - Memory tricked me. I thought my right side was in better shape. Ends up the left side was a total writeoff, but the right side has issues on the bottom side. Some foil insulation tape on the inside might work, but with the repros out, you may find a better example than this. LMK

I got a '72, I think they are the same. I bought the reproduction parts so you can have my 40 year old one. The reproductions are pretty sweet. PM me your address if you want used.

Thats a pretty common dent for cars that have been secured onto trailers with metal hooks instead of straps. My car has them all over the rear control arms.

Awesome Jeff! I'll try to pull the CZOT guys into the discussion for their input.

This is hilarious

Surprised this didn't get brought up yet, but WTF? Some sample write ups from Car and Driver and Fox News.

Speaking of cost, I remember a point the CZOT guys made. They put a 1 1/2 hex head on the rod. The wrench was $100. Might be better to weld on a T'd pipe you can put a tire iron into instead of using a big socket or wrench.

Yeah, I see your point, the rod end would need to be machined down to something like 3/4" and the pipe would need to be reduced on the end. I'm cross posting from CZOT as our regional club message board is not public like classiczcars. The guys there are about a week away from posting photos. At our monthly club meeting they said it hasn't pulled the threads off, but did snap a really stuck pin in half requiring pulling from both sides. :cheeky:

1/4" BSP, see http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36524.html#post308808

This is the bar the CZOT club (Austin) is playing with (part number B7MATR-NF100). Basically a 1" thick alloy steal rod, but they ordered 12" long instead of 14". Softer steal gets the threads stripped. The end of the rod is drilled/tapped to grab the end of the spindle. Northwest Fastener - B7M All Thread Rods - Houston Texas

URL got truncated, this is the link http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread13593.html#post90742

The throttle shaft bushings going through the center of the carb body are the notorious spot for leaks on our SU carburetors. Z-Therapy rebuild is the cure...

As usual, you're doing it right. I like to see the spoiler being that last performance mod put on a car. Most of the time its the first thing done. The towel drier bar might look nice on the white car. Doesn't look right on the lime green for some reason.

The doors are beefier on the 280. I didn't have a scale, but picked both of them up and the 280 door was much heavier. So I would imagine there is better side impact protection in the 280. You are pretty much f'd in a t-bone collision in a 240...

A guy walked up to my car at the upholstery shop (car currently has no doors, fendors, hatch or hood) and asks "is this a Mustang"? I replied, "No, its the exact opposite"...

Yahoo mail is similar in that you can pay to make the adverts go away. Its an interesting model since everyone contributes one way or the other. I'd be okay with paying and still seeing some discrete ads from vendors as long as the layout is done right.

Mine has been loaned around Austin for the last few years and busted and repaired a few times. Some local engineers got ahold of it and redesigned it to be "bomb proof" but I haven't seen it yet.

Checked the microfilm, it didn't help and my head in the garage doesn't have any studs in it... D'oh...

Since you are racing, you'll probably like the polyurethane. Z's handle great when all the rubber is fresh and you put an RT diff mount in. I suspect your control arms are moving too much. The outer rear control arm bushings on 240Z's are a PITA because of the dreaded pin that needs to be pulled. I went with stock bushings which makes the mustache bar replacement a pain. The transmission mount bushings (I used poly there) made a big difference on my car. If you have the suspension that broken down, you'll want springs/RT/shocks/sway bars done at the same time like Mike suggests.

Mike, PM sent with links to some gallery shots. Dave, when you knock on the panels prior to and after the insulation getting sprayed, the panels went from a ringing ping to a nice mid-tone with a steep fade off (no ringing)... So it might be worth it, don't know yet.

I'm in a similar mind set and going for a smooth ride cruiser Z and wanted a quiet solid sounding car. Went with Lizard Skin on the unibody, both sound and heat insulation. How does she sound? No idea... Need probably another year of weekends to find out... Gallery Link Gallery Link

Vinyl interior phase. Door panel came out amazing (end of this post)...

I started playing with AlumiBlast paint. Love the idea about mounting the cover on plywood. I've got 2 extra valve covers in the attic that may get blasted.

This one is totally clean Gallery Link

Decided to go with Dye instead of paint. Took six coats of a tanish color to hide the black and then mixed in some orange, yellow, and gold into the tan color to get the butterscotch. Looks exactly the same as the diamond vinyl. Gallery Link