GreenZZZ

its off the IZCC stuff... http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/SpindlePinTool.htm

I'm looking at finally re-bushing my rear end suspension. I've had the parts around, just need the puller. After reading this, I pulled out the parts (I have new spindles) and it looks like I have the reverse problem, the sleeves are too narrow. The spindle measures at 0.628" OD and the sleeves are measuring between 0.626" and 0.627". Is .002" diameter something that will stretch when hammered on with a socket used as a drift or should I call ES.

Very clever. I've been through 4 heads on my Z. My problem has been keeping them on the block!!! :eek:

Good thread on distributor options here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25551

I'm convinced! :laugh:

One of my wheel cylinders just failed. I went through my records and thought this would be an interesting datapoint for folks. I installed new aftermarket wheel cylinders ($37.41 per side) in June, 1989. I've only put 20K miles on the car since then with many years putting less than 300 miles per year. Reading what Arne posted, I'm just going to order new parts and not attempt a rebuild.

I bought some eagleday connectors. They are close but don't mate up with the Japanese stuff we have. I believe they are 70's vintage Porche parts.

I'd replace the rod bolts. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM08/10-1311 If you are going to have the front cover off, I'd do the timing chain and leave the distributor till later as its an easy engine in swap. I've broken the timing cover bolts before, so having two motors will help. I bought new bolts for mine.

Check out http://www.vintageconnections.com/ and http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/connectors.htm

I've been using this stuff called VersaChem Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant "Type 13" (whatever that means) on pretty much everything. Is that the stuff to use? I used to use KopperKoat but I haven't been able to find that in the last ten years. I loved KopperKoat. It held up even in marine environments. Seems like the versa chem is pretty much the same stuff.

I've been to 3 of them over three years. My Z is running real nice now so I intend to get my attendance record in better shape. I've noticed I get in my Z as much as possible until it hits 100 degress which is usually Memorial Day weekend. I love my Mallory Unilite. The price almost 1/3 less now and its very rugged. I think you need the alternator upgrade to make it sing.

I was so thrilled by this thread I went out and hacked up my own. I think Mike's is better, but it works... I had some issues with the ash try top hitting the back part of the bracket which I point out.

Caught this thread late... I have an E31 that I bought off IZCC something like 15 years ago and I run it on my 2/72 Z car. MSA rebuilt it for me two years ago. I think they did a nice job but I'm no expert. I did notice spacers underneath the cam towers. They replaced 4 valves, probably with used parts, and I got the same head back. They had to heli-coil several manifold stud mounts and this was done quite well. Car runs real nice and smooth, but it does ping at times at 2200 to about 3200 RPMs on uphills even with 93 octane. Car was smoking on upshifts before the rebuild. Now very clean looking exhaust and peppy performance. I just slapped on the head gastket MSA sold me. Should I worry about the ping or just pull the plugs every 1K miles to see if I'm killing my engine? Lee IZCC #78...

Yes sir, stock valence rubbing front left... I'll probably cut it back which has me tense... I guess I like the wheels more than the valance

I'm 42, Austin, TX - not moving the average much... Started driving Z's in Houston in 1980. White '72 240Z RIP, 2/26/85 Green '72 240Z 2/89, back in the saddle!

Nice car. Automatic transmission... Well... my wife doesn't like stick shift and I have no idea what to get her for Christmas... Hmm.... :cheeky:

I fried two distributors, one in my green 240 and one in a 260Z. Both times it was the lower bearing. Also had problems with shot springs on the timing advance weights. The springs are pretty easy to fix. When I lost the lower bearings 15 years ago and I assumed that meant the distributor was a total loss.

Playing around with GIMP on Linux and my camera. Here is a photo of my ignition setup. I have a bigger image going to my gallery.

The Unilite distributor can trigger an external electronic ignition, the stock coil, or a high output coil. I think most people go straight to the extenal electronic ignition. I didn't do that, I have it triggering a chromed Mallory high output cannister coil. The distributor instructions say in my case the resistor is needed, but if triggering an external electronic ignition module, the ballast can be installed or removed (neat!). The coil instructions say this... NOTE: Most late model cars are equipped with a ballast or loom resistor. Do not bypass this resistor when installing this coil. If there is no original equipment resistor in the circuit, use Mallory Resistor Part No. 700.

correction, Yokohama ES100 225/50/16 tires

Just installed 16x7 all chrome panasports (MSA spring sale) with Yokohama ES100 225/60/16 tires. Rubbing on the front left valence when turning right... :paranoid: Amazing upgrade otherwise.

Considering what it costs to go breakerless now, you may want to punt on the original ignition. Amazon.com or CenturyPerformance.com's price on the Malory Unilite distributor (MAL-4763901) is hard to beat. You used to have to throw down to get those (I did!!!) Mine is matched up with a MAL-700 ballast resistor and a MAL-29216 Chrome Coil. Looks nice with the MAL-29224 Chrome bracket. I'm a motorsport auto fan, but not for ignition. You can get a new ignition and a bumper for the price of the Malory distributor at MSA...

I'd like in on the clock and oscillator line. Thanks