GreenZZZ

And the most difficult award goes to.... Outer lower control arm bushings!!!

Make sure you grind off the peened portion of the nut on the stub axle very carefully with a dremel. Otherwise you end up with hosed axle. The torque on the nut is pretty intense. Lots of different methods... This one is good. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html If the big-o-air-tool doesn't work, what I do is install the strut in a wheel with a tire on it. Two people. One with a 4 foot bar sitting with feet on the wheel pull hard on the bar and the other guy standing on the wheel whacking on with a 2 or 5 pound hammer. It's pretty amazing when two people pulling on a 4 foot bar doesn't remove a bolt! If you don't "de-peen" the nut, you end up with an f'd up stub axle like what I found in my car... Notice the dremmeled nut in the bottom right and bad threads in the axle on the left. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32730&ppuser=14083

I'm doing that then. Figure the solid diff mounts used in racing show you can go to zero movement so I figure what you did is the proverbial "Goldilocks Zone".

Great idea. I'll probably do black instead of silver, but killing the rust rot is key.

I was hoping this thread was sick off color joke... Instead I found a legitimate technical discussion. Prurient dipstick references obviously does not belong on this thread. Go here instead... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=dipstick+joke&btnG=Google+Search

Good stuff. Next thing to try is an extra quarter or 3/8 inch on the bumpstop over the diff. You would obviously need a jack to press up on the bumpstop to get the diff mounted into place. Might be a nice track mod. Probably wouldn't be noticeable cruising around. Figure we all have an extra bump since they come in pairs...

Outer - "JAPAN HX" "NTN" "SXD6A52C4" Inner - "RHP" "ENGLAND" "LJ1_1/4J" "E" The Japanese bearing, the first, third, and fourth characters are alittle blury. Could be "8X08A52C4" for instance...

Decided to go with aftermarket stub axle bearings... They appear to be commonly used throwout bearings. The Nissan stock bearings shot up in price pretty badly recently and Motorsport followed (something like $60.00 for the outer bearing alone). BlackDragon sells the inner/outer and seal for $50.00 per side. This is what is in the kit. Any good/bad/ugly on the aftermarket stub axle bearings? Beck/Arnley makes pretty good stuff from my experience. Don't know RHP... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32788&ppuser=14083

Ron has website hosting issues going on. He is over at ZCLOCK4U@aol.com temporarily.

Got my front and rear control arm bushings installed (stock). Decided on stock mustache bar bushings. They are longer than I expected, but I figure after you press them in you have to flare the end somehow. Check the photo. Is this the right part ('72Z with an R200 swap). If its right, how do you press them in? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32789

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32786 Suspension painted!!!

Z scalper!

Got my 240Z stripped to the carcass. Body work, paint, rebuilt motor, POR'd suspension, some aluminum buffing. Looks like I need a new axle :surprised: BTW - Motorsport is out of weatherstrip kits until July. Hopefully no delays past that. Hope to have the car mostly assembled by then.

Thanks Nigil. Z barn has strut tubes for $75. That sounds cheap to me. I'll call and see if it includes the axle. With new lug nuts I'll end up with 2 backing plates that way. I think it was torqued correctly and then loosened. I had a Z shop put in axle bearings around '90 or '91 as I didn't have the accumulations of tool like I have now. I bought the car in late 80's and have been working on it since something like '82. I'm sure the Z mechanic put ~190 ft lbs on it as its been running fine for 18 years. I'm assuming the nut back off to 40 as it didn't have peening or lock-tight on the nut. It probably backed off at the track when I blew the motor up!! Will never know who shaved the axle... Happy New Year!

Thanks Jon. Sounds about right. Car has 300K miles so I'm probably putting the 3rd or 4th set of bearings in. Do you know if the 240's typically have the backing plate? The backing plate shows in the microfilm. Anyone know anything about the F15/J15 stamping and what that means?