Z train

Will,please tell me exactly what part of"No N/A 2.8 L motor will make more power than a 2.4 with a pinwheel"you didn't understand? My 3.1 has nothing to do with the equation.

Please explain to me why i'm running at 17 psi and the only reason i'm not running in the 25psi range is that i have an older Electromotive computer. No 2.8 N/A L motor will make more power that a 2.4 with a pinwheel.Period.

I'll go along with this up to the part of useing WD-40 INSIDE the lines.You shouldn't use anything that could contaminate the brake fluid. dkd021-not to hi-jack but explain your avatar please.

I think i'll go for a drive today............

What is your budget?Do you have 220 available anywhere?

If the frame rail is involved,then $hit-can the POR fix.Time to stitch steel.

I'm un-familiar with the "Floorboard kit".What's in it? If you can,get a really well lit shot of the underside AFTER the undercoating is stripped.

Who here can post a pic for me?I have a good shot of how crowded it gets underhood with just ONE pinwheel.

First things first-POR will not stick to any painted surface.It must be rust,blasted or sanded first. With regards to the rust-is the car undercoated?If so it(undercoating) would have to be stripped form the area.The rust is very borderline between needing a new piece welded in and being able to fix it with POR & fiberglass cloth.

SBlake01 hit it dead nuts with his analogy.He got it.

Exactly what part of"I was asking a question" don't you get?

The internet is what is known as a "dead medium".There really is no way to read emotion into a post.My topic was simply a poser-almost rhetorical.As in-damn this is getting annoying.wizz-off-nahhh.Trust me-you'll be able to tell when i'm pissed off.I'll post 153 of these things>

Will,you're kiddin'-right?I've been putting up with the "crashes" since i joined.And i ask a simple,straight forward question,and YOU say i should be part of the solution to a problem i didn't know existed?:stupid: Judging by others posts,there IS a problem.And it is being looked into.That's all someone had to say.

HUH?Be a part of the answer to the question that i didn't know was asked?:stupid: And by asking about an issue i didn't know existed-i am exacerbating the problem??!!! You need to adjust your attitude.

Every 2-3 maybe 4 days the board crashes.This is getting really friggin' old.

I've seen the "button" inside the cap fall out on occasion.Also-rotor tang in right position?

Everyone is entitled to an opinion-true.But when an opinion flies in the face of reality,i draw the line.Meaning,if Jimmy and i were sitting in a bar and having this conversation,i would say to him"You're nuckin' futs and order another beer. BUT....other people are watching/listening-trying to learn.Some might get the impression that EI & points are on equal "footing"-they are not.

If you want to keep your points-that's fine.I'm not telling you otherwise.Put don't post that they(points) are as good as EI-because they aren't.

Do a search for wood steering wheels for a 64 GTO if you want to see expensive.

Hey,Walt...guess what?My "bubble" is bullet-proof.Aircraft magnetos use points in case of problems.So the engine stays running.So the aircraft doesn't fall out of the sky and land on someones head.(in some cases this would be a good thing) The real problem with points is that they SUCK. Check the following websites: this one(duh) Zcar.com hybridZ http://forum.ratsun.net Tell us how many "Electronic Ignition to point conversion"topics there are. First our Zs are being compared to aircraft and now tractors.:stupid:

You are wrong again.Saying points are crap is not only right.It's completely,100% accurate.If points WEREN'T crap then they would still be in new cars.They're not.Take the hint. And comparing aircraft magnetos to a 35 year old points distributor is so bizarre that i'll let it go.:tapemouth One last thing-the Fireman lubed the locomotive.

Where the hell is the edit feature?

I was referring to points -period.No matter how well your car starts with points,it would start better with electronic ignition.As far as MPG goes-i agree who really gives a rats arse about milage.But to pick up fuel economy as colateral with no down-side?That's a no-brainer. And no matter how good you are with a dwell meter,points float.Floating points causes the dwell to change.Changing dwell causes the timing to change.Not good. No logical arguement can be made for the retention of points with the possible exception of a concourse car.

To take Carls post one further..it is a simple matter to make a 280 dizzy driven by a MSD 6AL or the like.Also the box can be hidden under-hood or under the dash.Can electronic modules fail?Of course.But not with the frequency suggested here. Points are,well....completely point-less.Dinosaur technology that has no place on a street driven vehicle in 2008.Points(vs electronic)provide poor starts,poor fuel economy,dirtier idle and erratic timing.

R-12s"effects" on the ozone are THEORY-no proof what-so-ever. No side effects. COMPLETELY harmless. Now lets look at R-134A: PROVEN corrosive PROVEN carcinogen And proven inferior in retro-fits. Here's a poser for you all:Who took R-12 off the market?