thinkmonkey

Saw this car in Sport Compact Car a few months ago, whats his face was gonna buy it but knew he couldn't give it a good enough home. -Dave

Zvoiture - Sorry I didn't reply, I haven't lookied at the thread in a while. Are you talking about a quaiffe style LSD? If so I'd definately be interested. Coastguardz - I don't think you understand what drifting is about and what differentiates it from ricers in honda civics at car shows. You can tell a real drifters car because it is stripped down, dented to hell, and used specifically for road racing and drifting. What makes it different from getting loose midturn is that you enter the turn sideways in order to exit parallel to the next straightaway. This takes a lot of balls to do on dirt, gravel, or asphalt and takes massive amounts of skill to pull off sustained slip angles that require full opposite lock through an entire corner. The three things that make it a legitimate sport is that it requires honed car control skills unlikes a burnout, it is something that spectators enjoy immensely, and it is bags of fun! I don't want to call you ignorant or close minded but you do need to experience it yourself, at least in a few years when it is popular enough in the US to have legal, sanctioned events with talented drivers. On a side not, I just crashed my drift car two days ago. I went into a curb (industrial area, 10:30 at night) at about 25mph at no ones fault but my own. Destroyed my front and rear wheels (steel wheels, drifters choice) and collapsed the rear toe and lower control arms. Just got new ones from a Northwest Nissans event today and have them in now. Will get alignment on monday, weld in braces for control arm mounts and be back drifting next week. Silly me. -Dave FWD SUCKS!

I have my 240z which is currently in perpetual restoration, but I also aquired a 1993 240sx last year, 20 years it's junior, and have been obsessed with drifting ever since. I started off drifting in the rain which helped me hone my skills at somewhat 'safe' speeds. I now have RS-R race springs, KYB agx's, whiteline adjustable sway bars, kumho 712 stickies, and a lot of close calls with walls, curbs, and the cops. What I need is a clutch type LSD, and roll cage, and a legal venue because I want to live to see my Z finished. It's damn good fun though. If anyone doubts that drifting takes skill, find someone who really knows what they are doing and go for a ride. You'll be entering corners completely sideways before the road even starts to bend. -David

I'd settle for it, just like a world rally car! (Well, thats actually the anti-lag system retarding the timing to blow through the turbo...) -David

I'm a hybridz guy but back when I dabbled with the L28 I seem to remember the issue was with how the SU carbs metered gas and how even a good fuel pressure regulator wouldn't help. I'll try and dig up the details for you. -David

My 'bodyman' is an old friend of mine that is currently living way down in Kingston Jamaica, and I dare not call myself a body expert without him around. I can hold my own with a dolly and hammer, but when it comes to shrinking and stretching with a torch, I cringe at the thought of making an eyesore a major problem. I could only find an old photo of the rearend, and it's not very detailed but you can see whats going on. The bottom edge to the right of the exhaust cutout is bent in and is wavy towards the right edge, There is a dent on the left side, but that is not a problem. If I can get the bottom edge straight, I can take care of the rest. But how can I accomplish that? -David

Alright, here's one that's got me stumped. How am I going to get the waviness and distortions out of the rear valence of my Z so that the bottom edge appears straight? I want the rear straight at the bottom edge, but it is so hard because the valence isn't secured to the main structure. My body-man friends only idea was to either buy a new rear valence or cut most of it off and use an english wheel. What should I do? I included a picture of exactly what I want, it includes the dual exhaust cutouts and the shaved rear bumper mounts. Thanks. -David

Were I to somehow stumble upon $1 million, by the end of the day I would own a: -BMW M5 -Honda VFR800F By the end of the year I would own: -S13 240sx and Last Gen Camaro Z28 (Cheapest 'true' tuner cars, one for handling, the other for straight line) -Honda CBR1100XX -1968 Dodge Charger 440 R/T (Who can afford the Hemi?) -1942 Jeep (non CJ) -Nismo blue R34 Nissan Skyline (ooh baby RB26DETT, dorifuto time) -BMW E46 M3 -C5 Corvette, Z06 of course -David

Sounds like cancer to me, and it's hard to give advice other than "tear 'r down and build 'r up." If you can see it, then there is a lot more. What is your goal for your car, do you drive it every day? Is it your main driver? -David

I was curious what kind of 'restoration' you guys do to your z cars when you do race prep them for competition? Do you just shop for a rust free arizona car, or do you strip and dip the unit-body first? -David

I'm shipping my engine and tranny so I was wondering if anyone knew the weights of either? The engine is a carbureted L28, and the tranny is a 280zx 5 speed. Rough estimates would be alright too, thanks. -David

Hey Ivan, where in NZ are you? I lived in Auckland 96-99 and I'm going back for college next year, and bringing my Hybrid 240 with me (LHD). I've been talking with the z car club of NZ and they say I might be able to pull it off legally. -David

I'm going to cut out the spare tire well and weld in a box where it and the gas tank was. Mounting it above is more dangerous spill wise in a bad collision and it raises the center of gravity. I just wish I Summit would provide dimensions on their cells so I didn't have to order it now.

According to "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" one is the fuel line, one the return line, and one goes to the flow guide valve from the cannister. My flow guide valve line was never connected (previous removed most emissions junk). So is the function of the fuel return line to put air into the tank to replace the spent fuel? My engine is out right now, so does the return line connect to the intake?

I am a little confused when it comes to the operation of the fuel tank, though the concept is simple. Why does the tank have all of the vent lines (not the evaporative emissions stuff) going to the front of the car and terminating in the engine compartment? I want to install a fuel cell, so what kind of vent lines will I need. I am confused. Has anyone done a writeup on their fuel cell installation? -David

It is a F54, it has additional webbing cast between the cylinders for more rigidity and to promote better cooling than the N42. This means it was orignally produced between 1981 and 1983. -David

I dug up the Remanufactured Engine Sticker from Nissan, and it says the following: Engine Type - L28 Part No. - 1010B-P7110RE Serial No. - OX 6697 Nissan Motor CO., LTD. Made in Japan It seems to me that this probably means it was rebuilt June 6, 1997. I attached a photo, but it hasn't work for me in the past. This is us hoisting the engine and tranny last month. I was planning on putting it back in the car after I repainted the body, but my friend convinced me a 350 was the way to go. With the 3.9 rearend and the 5 speed, my car was massively fun. THe previous owner did all the right things and removed the air gally, smog pump, and installed the electronic ignition and new plug wires. It has NEVER smoked on me and always starts. It still uses a choke, and it has the dome top carbs. It idles a little high, at about 900rpm when warm, I never synced the carbs (the owner lived higher sea level) because I only drove it perhaps 75 miles in February. If the pictures don't show, try http://www.echostudios.com/z

Actually I have a ton of parts to sell. I'll dig up all the info on the engine/block/tranny and the rebuild date and post some pictures tomorrow. Eventually I will be selling: -Tan Leather Miata Buckets -2 inch Lowering Springs -81zx wheels/tires -Black Leather Toneau Cover for the Hatch Area, really nice -All Emblems -Chrome Pieces -Antennae -Another set of 15 inch Black net wheels -Gas tank and Evaporative Emissions Box I'll post some more stuff here, and hopefully some pictures, tomorrow. -David

Has anyone deleted some/most/all of the chrome on their car, and if so how does it look. I've heard of some people cutting off the drip rails, and does this look odd or too custom. Right now the chrome that I still have is the frame around the windshield, rear hatch, the door windows, the mini windows, the drip rails, and the rear tail lights. I've decided to shave the bumpers, bumper mounts, side turn signals, handles, hatch key, fuel door, antennae, fender emblems, rear quarter emblems, and hood ornament. I'm doing this to 'release' the natural body lines of the z that are hidden by superflous junk. I may get the z emblem off the new 350z's fender and use it as the hood ornament, but other than the wheels and exhaust, that will be the only chrome on the car. Any suggestions are welcome. One more problem I have is with the stock seat mounts. I'm putting Corbeau Forza's in my car, and they will barely clear the ceiling of the car unless I remove the east to west seat mounts which I fear are somewhat structurally important. Can I do this and just reinforce the rocker to tunnel connection or am I fine? Thanks guys. -David

I bought a '73 240 in February and I am race prepping it from the ground up, including stripping the interior and installing a rollcage. The car itself was not pretty to look at, but had a lot of aftermarket items on it that were very nice. The previous owner installed a momo wheel, lowering springs, 3.9 R200 rearend, 80 something zx wheels, miata buckets, and a Nissan rebuilt L28 coupled to a zx 5 speed. I'm building up a 350 for the car right now, so I won't need the engine or tranny. The engine has 11,000 miles on it and is documented, so I'm pretty sure that I want to sell it and the tranny because it is such a strong motor. The camshaft is nice and shiny and when I drained the transmission I didn't find any filings (or sawdust). So would anyone be interested in buying the engine? It's got electronic ignition, and I'm going to paint the block/shine the valve cover to make it look nice. I wish that I had waited to yank the engine so I could have gotten some video of it running, it sounds really nice with the headers and single muffler. Anyway, shoot me a message if you are possibly interested, I live in Seattle. Thanks. -David

I have taken about 1200 pictures of my car as I restore it with my Digital Camera. It's great for rmembering things, and also will help the value of the car because I can probe the ground up work at every step. -David