zKars

Another value point submitted by a friend: A 73 @ $37,000 asking! http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/datsun/240z/1534203.html Apparently 73's are the hot tip at the moment...

Done! Payment received. Thanks.

Looking at these pictures there is something I need to take care of and it may be something you all need to consider. Check out the gap in this seam where the firewall curves under and meets the floor pan! I've seen this on other Z's but never one this wide. Can you spot the same thing on the other side? I'm going to hammer that shut and get the seam sealer out. And you wonder why these thing rot away....

So I have the beast up on jack stands working on the exhaust, and thought I'd post a couple of pics so you see the incredible un-touched un-rusty ness of this thing. Please ignore the green coloration in some pictures. its the "filter" I have on the halogen light. I know I have a bit more scrubbing to do, but I wanted to show the never un-coated (or very very perfectly removed undercoating at some point) underside. I've stripped and coated everything from the firewall forward and rear suspension area back, but left the middle alone to prove the starting point quality. Nothing to hide here. The front of the frame rail/TC rod pocket is in the coated area here, as is the area above that where the re-inforcing/doubler plate is located. The messy stuff is painted seam sealer around the plate, not coated rust flakes! Really! Honest! Crappy shadows..... I think I'll leave the exhaust wide open like that.... End of the frame rail. Flat, clean, un-scathed.

Yeah I saw the Eastwood hot lamp system. How the heck to control temperature properly or is it that forgiving? I think I'll buy another matching cheap toaster oven, chop the ends off of both and "merge" them. Just imagine the roll of duct tape around and around the seam.. Think Red Green.

Ah yes, another of the eternal list of decisions. Go with a "used" set of DATSUN sill plates lovingly (and slowly) restored, or use a fresh set without? Or spend $$ on someone's NOS set... Trade someone four sets of used for one NOS? At least I can offer the buyer either option. I need a longer powder coating oven.....

Let's see what you can spot in the threshold strip shine.

There. I'm black and blue and so is the car.

I bought the seat covers from MSA. The interior panels are all original re-dyed, except the tail light panel and one quarter window cover. Just finished wrestling the seat covers on the drivers seat. Now all four pieces are done. May I again thank all the upholsterers out there for their service. And the inventor of the zip tie. Without those things to pull the back rest upholstry ends together, and a heat gun to soften that thick vinyl, I'd be a basket case. Will have them back in the car soon and pictures coming this aft. P.S. I'll also have a like new set of black seat covers just laying around if anyone would like them... I am NOT installing them for you.

It goes round and round. Nothing special, its an asian "value priced" thing from Busy Bee tools here in Calgary. Wouldn't buy another one. Does the little things I need around here.

Okay you bunch of crows, focus on the pretty white thing in the middle of the shop, not the shiny stuff all around. Weeeee, you're welcome to drop in anytime. Love to show you around.

Some other blue interior pics. These were taken around my most recent new modern seat belt upgrade and how to do it properly in a series 1, oops I mean early Z with plastic behind the seat tool covers. It deserves it's own thread. Here the retractor reel fits right in the corner and still has room for the jack and wheel chocks. yes you have take a corner out of the cover to let the belt come thru. This is the shoulder belt extension that puts the pivot point loop just behind the drivers shoulder and puts the down going belt going straight down into the reel as its supposed to.

Now about the blue interior and some pictures. Truth is I'm just putting the new blue seat covers on the seats. The rest of the blue interior parts are in place, but with the black seats, no matter how new and pretty, it just kinda spoils it. I have a whole new respect for upholstry people after struggling on the first seat cover. Second one will be easier. Skin about to go on the foam. Note I'm working on the original blue seat that now functions as a shop seat and workbench. Very handy for unholstry work too! The black seat back waiting to be stripped, and new base with blue. Comparing old and new Old and new. The new material is much thicker stock than the old. Nice and stiff in the cold out in the shop today. The seats I'm using were recently totally rebuilt with new foam and springs. Everything is shiny clean and new now

A friend just sent me this link from Bring a Trailer. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-14/ And another high is set for a 240Z sale. $27,750 !!!! And its only a measly 73! (though a very nice one.) $25k for a fresh series 1 is looking pretty cheap. Just saying

Blue pictures coming tomorrow. Not pictures of Blue though.

Four nearly perfect "Z" hub caps to go on the nearly perfect 14x5 stock rims. I know, I know.... Don't start. I have 4 14x6 aluminum slot mags you can have if this is too "Wrong"

Comes with its own "Cowl mounted LED lit tool tray" if one of "you" buy it!

I've been working on a 12/70 (VIN 17813) restoration for about 10 months. It will be ready for sale shortly. I have been making vague references to this project in a few posts over the last few months, hoping to wet your appetite. I do feel strongly about the adage of "it should go to a good home and to good people" so I'm starting here. This is the only place it is currently advertised. I will keep this true for at least seven days. Here are a few details and pics to get your juices running. White on blue. Series 1. fresh single stage paint. Only minor rust was present and is all fixed. Standard disclaimer about there being "no such thing as a rust free Datsun". Lets get this out of the way now. Fresh L24 with an E31 head, but the block is NOT numbers matching. There. I said it. what a relief to get that off my chest. It is done primarily as a stock restoration but it has several small and tasteful upgrades and many important and common "Standard" improvements. Nothing that can't be easily reversed if you want to go "pure". It's not perfect. I built it as a driver, not a show car or medallion winner. There are lots of things you can still buy, clean perfectly, or improve on yourself to make it "more better" and "yours". I've take hundreds of pictures of pretty much everything that's been done to it. No secrets. I put a fresh wiper motor electrical connector on it. Just had to mention that.... There have been a couple of white on blue series 1's that have been offered in the last year that sold in the $20-25K USD range if you're wondering what I'm asking. Recent discussions by members of this forum of similar cars for sale, make this a very reasonable range to expect. I'm flexible but not like when I was 12. I want it sold sooner than later. There is still time to finish it to a buyers specification if the engine, trans, wheels, whatever are not right for you. How often do you get that offer from a seller? I will happily discuss the details with any of you that want the full story. PM me for a phone number. Pictures coming below. Jim Karst

My meager collection

Here is Eric's choke know image from his website. zparts.com/zptech/comparisons

The show even got decent press. Next year there will be even more cars! http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/reviews/classics/collecting-classic-japanese-cars-on-the-rise-as-jaguars-ferraris-become-unaffortable/article31741762/

I'm not sure, but I really don't want to come to any croppers. ? Seems I do have one. There's one new one on flea bay for $165, a used one for $75 with shipping, I'm asking $50 + shipping.

I think I have one. Let me check later today

Pin sits flush ie all the way in. Things aren't lined up right yet.

One clarification on the hot water flow through the manifold and carbs. On 72-74 carb systems there is a valve at the end of the intake where coolant exits, that CLOSES once the coolant reaches operating temps. Hence coolant flow is only used to aid the warm up portion of usage. Now if that valve is plugged open, perhaps it contributes. I'd love to know what normal everyday carb bowl temperatures actually run at then what temps rise to after shut down, including the fuel rail. BTW I'm having hot re-start issues right now as well on my ZT Su's. Electric pump only, Non stock fuel line routing, SS -6 lines, no return. wrapped headers, inspection door vents, 0 problem running once started at any temperature. Only happens after hot shut down.