beandip

Good for you , I layed it out for you and you are still willing to tackle the car. I am in Portland Oregon . If I am close to you , call me I will help . If not , then I offer my knowledge , what there is , just ask . gary

Richard , I am so sorry about the Z but am glad that you are ok. The fact that you have a agreed upon value insurance is outstanding . My first advise is DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING ! Do not realease any insurance from any thing . The thing here is to wait to see if all is ok with you. It may take a day or so to show up a neck injury or a problem with your back. On the car , do not settle for less that the car being returned to origional condition. If the insurance at fault wants to settle by totaling the Z they will need to come up with the $18,000 . and do not settle for a penny less. Plus you have the option to buy the Z back from them after they settle. It sounds like you have done everything right so far. Now from this point , don't be in a hurry , as much as you would like to . I am an old dude and years back was in a serious traffic accident . I was young then . I was stiff and sore and the cuts and bruses were taken care of but I tried to shake it off . I was off work for about 10 days . The Ins company agent came buy and all nice and smiles . I was not at fault either . I was feeling better and so went back to work and settled everything . I am still suffering from the back injury , It was sore then but it dident go away and infact months later it was worse . Just dont be in a hurry , they will be beleave you me . Time is on your side here and take as much as you need , and dont be bullied. Gary

It is vary possable that you have a blocked oil passage and the overheating could be caused from lack of lubercation. The '' ticking '' sound could be the valve train running with no oil. Or , The over heating could be just from the thermostat being suck closed or the coolent not being pumped through the engine because of a air lock . When the engine is at idle , remove the oil filler cap in the valve cover and shine a light in and see it the oil is flying around coming off the cam . You dident say but did you replace the oil filter ? After 12 years there several things could be the problem . Gary

Like Ed said , first decide what you want , then see what the costs are BEFORE you start tearing in to the car. ''I am not looking to spend alot of money '' . ''the motor is running pretty good .'' two clues right there , either of which is not realistic . To do a restore , vary big bucks . 20k or there abouts. A redo or refresh half that ammont. If you do alot of the work yours self. To do a good job for preping for paint is to remove ALL the interior , dash headliner all of it. Then all the glass , pull the engine , bumpers and all badges and the door handels and all rubber seals around the doors and glass. Remove the wireing looms especially the one in the engine bay and forward. Then you can address any and all imperfections found in the body and paint. This way the car can be repainted , after proper cleaning sanding and priming and sanding , and priming and so on. Once the car is painted then the engine and glass can go back in followed by the interior and the rest of the chrome parts. Reinstalling the old egine that was just running pretty good is your option here , hopefully you have at least cleaned and detailed it first . At the vary least when the car is repainted , do the door jambs and shoot the car the same color as the enging bay . Just trying to point out the road you are beginning to drive down . '' rust free '' I doubt it ,but it is possable . Rust cannot be ignored if found , it must be taken care of . It's a canser and it will kill the car if not fixed period . And done correctly . I wish you all the best and I like Ed have just finished a , in my case a redo , on my '73 took 2 1/2 years but all was done in my garage except for some welding . And I had lots of help with the project from escanlon . Do all the '' GREASE WORK '' first before you start on the visable things , suspention and brakes and such. It all depends on what I stated in the beginning . Decide what your goal is when you are finished . Plus REALLY evaluate what you are starting with , and go form there. I started just wanting to replace the ring gear on the flywheel and decided to pull the engine so I could refresh the engine bay while I was at it. When I found some unanticapated rust , the Z ended up a rolling shell , with parts being stored all over the place . She is all better now and looking good , if I do say so . But things were UGLY for a long time . Gary :stupid:

SHOWBOB , What are you trying to acomplish here ? As was mentioned before , you have faulty valve stem seals . My old L24 had the same thing , it was like tar . But it was easy to clean off the valve stem through the port. If you are seeing deposits along the valve train , around the springs and such , DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN THIS OR DISTURB IT. If you mess with this you will not be able to get it all and a chunk that gets by your attempt could lodge in a oil passage and block it. It sounds like a valve job is need in the vary least , and most likely a complete rebuild . If you dont have a proper shop or garage is not smart. If you just pull the engine and take it someplace to do the rebuild this is different. But trying to do it in a parking lot ?????? My 5c Gary

Never hammer on the caps of the new u-joint. use a pipe fitting that will fit the opening and pound on this . I use a old socket that I have kept just for this purpose. This way you wont damage the cap because you are only contacting the out side edge of the cap. One more thing about u-joints be sure to lube them . The factory only applies a small amount of grease that is ment to keep the needle bearings in place while you are installing them. I replaced all of my half shaft joints and total came to $100 for the four. I bought the best I could find . I know you can buy them for less than $15.00 each but I don't believe this is a place to cut corners. In this thread nothing has been said of the rear wheel bearings going bad , they can be a sorce of vibration as well. How about tire ballance and check the tires for round and while spinning them look to see if the tread is stright. I have seen this in the past and a slightly bent wheel . On my Z I eliminated the front end shimmy by just jacking up the front end and loosening the lugnuts and retighting them with the tire off the ground . Richard , the changing of u-joints is a simple matter and can be done in a matter of a couple of hours for all 4 on the half shafts. The drive shaft is as easy. Just a hint : before removing a u-joint a good practice is to mark the two haves of the part to be dissambled , either with a bit of spray paint on scratching a mark in the metal. This way you can reassemble the parts as they were when the new joint is installed . If you have never done one before the first one may take longer than I stated but after that it is easy. We used to pull these things apart just to lube them , now at least there is a fitting that will alow you to do this in place. When lubeing the joint be careful not to force too much grease into the joint . Watch the little rubber seal and stop when you see it swell. NEVER use a air operated grease gun . If you do , most likely you will blow out the rubber seal from it's seat and after this the grease will just fly out and the joint will loose all of the lube when it is spinning . Especially the drive shaft .Gary

Have you tried Motorsport ?

I am sorry for you , and it is too bad the storage idea was out of the question. When I was your age I had to give up a '32 Ford hot rod because of no place to store it. Find your self a good driver to use to get throu school . School should be your focus for now , there will be time later , if you still desire a 240 . Gary

Tommo the last time I looked Flordia was pritty much surrounded by salt water. Beach cars suffer the same as those driven on salted roads . And you have been driving this Z for how many years ?

escanlon is right on . I just went through this vary thing . I wanted to start the engine and do some adjusting . The whole car had been apart for over 2 yrs. I diden't have all the wireing connected so I just thought I could run a hot wire to the coil from the battery and ground the ignition , spin the engine with a remote starter button. No joy . I tried everything ,and check all the components . I even dissambled the dist , again . Nothing . Finely when I connected the tach wire to the coil , it fired right up . It has been explained to me more than once and I know it is true . but I still find it hard to believe.

This is a vary big point to consider . CO is absorbed 5 times faster in your blood stream than the oxygen is , this is why it is so deadly .

In my openion , this vented hatch is a design flaw that Nissan saw and fixed with the quarter vents. Personally , I wouldent vent the rear hatch unless you are wanting to keep it a complete '70-71 for shows. Over the long haul of my redo of my '73 , I removed the evap tank and eliminated the vent hoses . all but one , that enter the cabin . I have driven the car now for a couple of hundred miles now . In hot weather and I can drive with the windows open and do not smell any fumes. I have filled the gas tank and again the same no smell inside . the car was parked in the garage overnight with the full tank windows closed , and before it would have stunk to high heaven . No longer. Now, I have replaced all the hatch rubber and new tail light seals . The point I am making is that the evap tank CAN be a sorce of fumes . So don't overlook this as a potential area to concider . Gary

They should be just fine . If you have a harbor fright around they sell them for about $12. for two .

The Horse hair and dnomat work completly different . The horse hair absorbs sound the matt helps stop resonance , the drum effect . I used both but brown bread insted of dynomat. I sandblasted the floors on my 240 and cleaned sand out of every cranny and space you could think of and more. the sand will get into everything . When you repaint you will see what I mean. Think about it first. I did treat all bare metal with POR and it sealed it vary well . Just go exactly by the directions if you use there paint . If you dont then dont bother with it because it will just peal off .

welcome to the club , if we can be of any sort of help just ask . Gary

Santa CruZ , You should be able to find a good early Z in that area . I think I would look more inland and south . Away from the salt air and both warmer and drier climate . But Finding a real good rust free 240Z is becoming harder every day and the prices are going up . It isn't ebay or the 350Z that is doing it , it is mearly the fact that there are fewer cars . Four years ago I could find them in the want adds in the paper on Sunday. I havent seen a 240Z on add for over a year. Not one that was driveable. Or in the bone yard either . Gary

Adam, welcome to the club , you will find a wealth of information here . You only need to ask. When you do , it is a good practice to mention weather your need is for a 240 or 280 , if this is important to the info. Also if injected or carbed. There are so many varations with these cars and that some have been modified from stock that this is helpful. You might have a look at the tec section as there is some vary useful information there . I suggest that you buy a book '' how to restore your DATSON Z-car by Humble . it is a fisher book . I bought mine on line at Amazon . These cars are some what unique and it helps greatly if and when you do want to do any work on your Z , plus it is good to see how things were assembled . There are some important things and places to look at and for when evaluating a Z and the number one is rust. But you need to be objective and know what is a problem and what is minor. What you are capable to handel your self and to be realistic. These cars are a fantastic ride and you can get swept away easily and then soon find that you have just bought a rust bucket that will cost thousands of dollars to repair. I wish you all the best . Welcome abord and feel free to ask away . Gary

c sama. I agree and you have found a place that is dedicated to the early Z . I my self have a 1973 240 and have just finished a complete refresh of the car. Not a restoration , since I have installed a 280ZX engine , and painted a non Nissan yellow . Wecome to the club and I hope you enjoy being a member. Do you own a Z ? Gary

Any wire that runs from the pump under the car forward is not stock and is a add on. The factory fuel pump power wire is green and there is a black which is ground. As Ed has stated it is with the sending units wireing and extends to the rear and up inside the cabin on the passinger side close to the tail light where they plug into the wire loom. And yes there is supposed to be a inline fuel filter between the tank and the electric pump. I am running only the electric pump and both filters. Gary

First of all , buy a good set of stands, NOT the cheep ones made of glorified sheet metal. The stand must have a wide foot print so it wont topple if side pressure is applied to the car. Always use at least two stands . If working on the front of the car then use one stand on each side of the front the same with the rear . Never use a set of stands and jack the care up on one side . The jack stands are not ment to be used on a angle or unlevel surface. The ramps are a great way of gaining highth. I use two sets when working on the Z when the wheels need not be removed. However I use the floor jack to raise the front and then slip the ramp under the tires with the ramp part facing toward the front of the car . I then jack the rear and put the secound set of ramps under the rear tires with the ramps facing to the rear. I have wooden blocks cut like door stops to chock the tires and tap them in place with a hammer. This way the tires will not move , beside the fact that the tires are riding in a depression in the ramp. This puts the car well in the air so cleaning or working on the underside of the car is much easier. Storage of Jack stands and ramps is not difficult and they take little room. I have one set of ramps at my home and a secound set '' loaned'' to my son . To do the clutch I would use four 3 ton stands and raise both ends of the car to allow you space to work. Or the ramps as described above. Gary If you have a Harbor Fright near by all means go there for the stands .

This is an old old thread . These have been NLA for a long long time . I was able to come accross a pair that are in decent shape and have installed them in my '73 . before I did though I sent them to a fellow member and he made some molds from them . He is looking into making them for sale. This was a few months ago and I havent seen anything of it . Gary

when you find the cause please let us know . I think it would be a good idea to check the float leavels This is simple and costs nothing , just increase the volume just a little and see it the problem is better .

This could happen , but oil the cylinders first and spin the engine with the plugs out . then start it.

When you ask about the stock pump , are you talking of the electric or manual ? No matter they pump under 5psi. Question , are you still running seald beam head lights or H-4 s ? What condition is the battery in , full charged , some what discharged ? This may sound like stupid questions but we need to eliminate a few things here. Check the tention on the v-belt to the alt. If loose it could be slipping under load . Where I live the daylight hours are deminishing to the point that more and more driving is with the lights on. A loose belt could cause the battery to be discharged to the point that the miss could be from a weak spark. You did say that you had the ignition coil tested , right? O , I started to ask about the h-4 s . If you havent up graded the wireing to the head lights and are running H-4 s this could be part of the problem . But not likely all of it. Just for the heck of it , if you have a batt charger , hook it up and let it charge for a few hours or over night . Then drive it and turn on the lights and see what happens . No more shooting ducks ! then you found the problem . Still does it , we keep checking. Doing this is free so try it before throwing money at it. Another thing if the float chambers run dry or just starting to . This also will cause this high end missing. Did you feel the quakes today ? I received notices of 9 seprate shakers since yesterday in your area. all around 4.5 Gary

Lurch , YOU WRANG ?? that was the line when Lurch opened the door . Just in case you dident see the TV Show. By the way 56 huh well dont feel out of place here I am 66 since last Feb. and I am not the oldest member , at least I don't think so . Unless the other ladd kicked the bucket . Gary