beandip

I know you don't realize it , but you are hi-jacking the thread . 2 hrs is vary optimistic.

For some , striping the car for paint is sanding and priming. Just like some say they are going to ''restore'' there car. In my mind a restoration is to dissemble the entire car and bring it back to like it came off the showroom floor. With all Nissan bolts and washers hoses and so on. If you do ANY modifications from OEM the car then is another modified Z, which 90% of us own. How you go about the process depends on how far you are going to go in the project. Do you plan on rebuilding the engine ? If so are you having it done or doing it your self. The same question of the body work and paint preparation. Are you replacing the interior , dash etc? When you do repaint will it be the same color as she was originally ? You are looking at about 20K for a restoration . From there it just depends on how much you can do your self and how pure a product you want to have when your done, and if you are going to drive the car or just show it. I did my '73 for me. She is a car I drive on mostly good weather days. If it rains, it's not a big deal. I show the car and she does look good , at least to me . Non stock Yellow with a ZX engine that is modified some. Up graded suspension and lowered. And a blast to drive. I did almost all the work on the car with the help of a good friend. In my own garage. Paint and all. It took me about 3 1/2 yrs. My Wife and neighbors were vary understanding with the noise. My friend EScanlon taught me how to do body work and showed me how to properly prep the car for paint (sanding and such). I did all the mechanicals myself as well as the reassembly . EScanlon did the dash thank God. I cannot bend like that any more. Plus he was a Big help with the wiring. (further mods done there) I think my Z is a 10 footer. Sure there are flaws and I know there there but you have to look to find them . I have put almost 10K on the car since reassembly , Yesterday she just turned 300,000 miles and is standing proud. Gary

The ''flat top'' carbs the dome looks like a soup can. the top is completely flat , the SUs are dome shaped. The 3 screw carbs are SUs from a '72 , 4 screw carbs are from '70-'71. As for performance there is no difference in them. Mostly just assembly differences . I am running a '82ZX 280 engine in my 240Z and running SUs. I gave the injection away to someone that needed it. The difference in performance with this engine compared to my old 240 engine is night and day. My car is intended for street use and the mods done to it were done with this in mind. Gary

The variations of these struts is endless. I haven't seen a OEM strut for a 240 in years. Length is a critical issue as well as the lifting power. the guy claims that it will fit and work on a early Z . For the price it seems like a reasonable offer. You will need to use your old mounting hardware on the new unit. Let us know how you come out. And if it is good the name of the maker and part number. Gary

The 260 engine has the same stroke as the 280. To further stroke the engine is to use a diesel crank from a Maxima engine . But there is much more that must be done when the diesel crank is used. Big Bucks up grade. If you think you need this sort of power you might consider a small block V-8. ''horsepower costs money. How fast do you want to SPEND'' Gary

I still have a spindle pin puller to loan. You just pay the $8.60 shipping each way and return it when done in a timely manner . So I can send it on to others. It will save many hours of anguish and frustration and the old pin will still be usable , providing you haven't beat on the end of it and screwed up the threads. The cost of one pin is more that the total shipping . the pin will come our with little effort and time. I get nothing out of this , and it is for members of classicz . I also have drawings on a PDF file if you wish to build your own. V8-240 makes them and has them for sale. He is the maker of the ones I have to loan. Send me a PM if you wish to loan the puller. Gary

The separate air cleaners do look cool . So does the little filter on the valve cover. How about the fumes in the cabin from the engine. The Stock air cleaner box is a efficient unit and for a street engine but I admit it doesn't look as cool. However with a K&N filter element installed it is still difficult to improve upon. If you build a 280 engine and with a big cam you will most likely go with triples anyway. The stock air box will be a good choice for most other street engines. For 37 years we have been trying to improve these engines and some accomplishments have been made . However at a cost of drive-ability. Certainly the choice is performance or style. Some times they are at opposite ends.

Tomo, If your e brake is not working . Most likely you are driving with only the front brakes operating. Your rear wheel cylinders may be frozen up. Unless what you have is a bad e brake cable that is jammed . To see if the rears are working , just drive down a empty street and make a panic stop from about 30 MPH . If the front wheels lock up and you don't see any braking from the rears . There you go.

The hoses coming off the float bowls are vent/overflow lines. To function properly the bowls must be vented. You can run with out the hoses or as JC stated just let them hang. The only problem with either is if a needle valve fails and the float chamber over flows , fuel will be going down onto a hot exhaust/manifold. Plus the open end of the hose is open to all the dust and dirt flying around the engine bay. Gary

I used the JC Whitney channel 3+ years ago and it worked just fine. I may still have the part numbers if you need them. They also have the fuzzy strip that goes against the inside of the door glass for a good price and it is just the same as the OEM . I installed it with pop rivets and they cannot be seen . No need to fight the staples. Gary

Welcome to the club. Make use of the search feature and you will find a wealth of information. If properly tuned you should be expected to be getting at least in the mid to high 20s. As you modify your Z for additional performance you will generally find a decrease in mileage.

From what I could see from the pictures the car is vary questionable as described. I agree 250K would be more likely.

The '77-'80 is a 280 A and the '81-'83 is a 280B The B is a closer ratio unit.

This strikes a cord with me also. My Wife and I married when she was 18 and I 21. I had a '56 Chevy nomad and a '32 Ford 3 window with a big V-8. A real Vette stomper. But changing life style was meaning the Deuce had to go. With no place to store it , kids were stealing parts from it . So I sold it . That was about 1960 . Four children, now all on there own, 2000 I found my 240 that I had wanted since '70 . Do I wish I had kept the Deuce , sure. But it was just not in the cards and part of growing into adult with responsibilities . If you are a car guy you will find another car and project in your future. Once infected there is no cure , All the best . Gary

Here is one thing not mentioned. I found on my '73 that at speed 70+ with a little head wind or faster on a calm day. At about 90 the front end becomes light and the geometry of alignment changes as the front lifts. I was getting a vibration and some shimmy in the steering. I lowered the front by removing some of the front springs , giving the car a slight rake. It eliminated all the vibration and shimmy. Now she is good and solid to 100 and could be faster but I haven't taken her any higher. I now have euro springs and new struts and all is great. On your tires , try jacking up the front end and loosening the lugs and re tighten them with the wheel off the ground. The lower the car and tighten the lugs down and see it this helps. Gary

Just another thought. You stated that she will start and run for a second or two. I don't have experience with the key switch on a '76Z , but on a 240 the switch has two detentes on at the start position and another in the run position. Just wondering if this could be a cause. Another thing as sblake01 stated you could have likely fried something by disconnecting the battery as you did. I am running a '80ZX ignition with the 12-80 module and I know they are sensitive to surges in the electrical system. Your ignition has a module of some kind , different from mine and this may be something to look into. Have you sent a email to Kim Blough ? smokeyyaro@veloscitus.net This guy is the most knowledgeable Z person I know on this stuff. Gary

there are numbers stamped on the ring gear . Or you can hold one Axel companion flange still and rotate the other one . Count the revolutions of the drive shaft flange. Mark the flanges first. One full rotation of a Axel flange and the drive shaft turns 3.9 revolutions this is the ratio. Others can tell you how to identify the tyranny's. I cannot help you there. Gary

Just how many years has this Z been sitting with our being run? I just reread the complete thread and didn't find this info. You did say that the carbs were rebuilt. Has the engine been run since they were installed? Did you do the rebuild or a mechanic? Try the starting fluid in the inlet of the air cleaner before you start messing with the carbs. The engine should try and start with the use of the spray. If not you have other issues. You mentioned the 400 RPM figure on the mechanical fuel pump. They pump immediately when the engine turns over on the starter. I works off the cam and is a simple lever that in pushed up and down by the cam as it rotates . It moves a rubber diaphragm up and down and pumps the gas. It takes a while to draw fuel all the way from the tank when the lines are empty. These pumps can fail and push gas into the engine diluting the oil, or spray gas down on the alternator. Either place is not that good. Vary old technology. Gary

SuDZ, Since you are running flat top carburetors some of the suggestions given may not apply to you, if they are unaware of this. 90% of carbed Z are running SUs ''round top'' and they are a totally different animal. If you blow air into the tank through the supply hose is it clear? A inexpensive replacement for your electric pump , that is if you want to buy one at a Bone yard. Is a pump from a RX-7 that is not injected. I have been running one for years out of a '80 RX-7 and recently bought a spare , $15.00. They are quiet and you wont even hear them run when the engine is running. If you need to clean the fuel line coming out of the gas tank or any where else , you can use an old speedometer cable on a drill . It will work like a roto-ruter and loosen any crud. Then you will need to flush the line. Just be careful working around gasoline especially if your drill is a plug in type . If you are only finding varnish in the lines , this will dissolve with time and use. Unless it is vary severe. Have you tried spraying starting fluid in the intake of the air cleaner when attempting to start the engine? Gary

When you replaced the points did you also replace the condenser? This could be at fault when it warms up it can fail. When the engine dies have you checked the fuel filters to see if there is fuel in them. This will let you know if the pump is working. Just a thought. Gary

When you replaced the points did you also replace the condenser? This could be at fault when it warms up it can fail. When the engine dies have you checked the fuel filters to see if there is fuel in them. This will let you know if the pump is working. Just a thought. Gary

What is the VIN number? This is the vehicle Identification Number It is located on the dash and on the firewall stamped in the steel. This is the information that is needed , not the brand of steering wheel or radio. This other stuff is helpful but the numbers are needed. I am in Oregon and I will also be looking. Many Cal cars are run up here with drugs coming from Mexico and some times abandoned. Gary

first of all , pumping on the throttle has Zero effect when the engine is not running. These carbs as well as the Round top SUs have no accelerator pump like is found on American cars or Weber's. When you turn the key the electric pump should activate. The mechanical pump only works when the engine is turning over . It works off the cam in the engine. Before you start pulling things apart. Test to see if the elect pump is getting power . You could have a broken wire or a blown fuse. Check the fuses with a continuity test , don't just rely on looking at the fusible strip inside the glass. The engine will run just fine on just one pump. I am running the electric only and have been for years. I cannot remember if the 260 had a electric pump cutoff that cut power if the engine was not running , a safety measure. If any one has info in this chime in here. Gary

You can eliminate the dash pot entirely. I haven't had one in 7 yrs. Have you lubed the linkage and ALL the pivot points? I have found that when the idle changes when I drive my Z and if I just tap the gas peddle and the idle drops to where it was set. The linkage is at fault. Now having said this , I am not running with a dash pot , witch function is to retard the linkage from dropping to idle quickly. Gary

SudZ, before you blow air pressure through the fuel line disconnect it from the front filter. Take care blowing pressure through the electric and or mechanical pumps. the fuel rail has a metering hole on the end of it where it connects to the hose going to the return line. It is a vary small hole and not much air will flow through it. If you have an old speedo cable , this makes a good flexible ''roto-router'' to clean fuel lines if necessary. I have a question or two. In your original post you stated that you were ''pumping the gas'' how were you doing this, also what carbs do you have? Gary