beandip

you wont need to send pictures they will look at the odometer when you have the emissions checked every year. Computers will take care of tracking the mileage. Talk of big brother . I heard recently that the issue had been dropped after Jay Lenno contacted thows in the know . but be aware the polititisions use this tack . they ask and threat the moon knowing that when the screaming stopped they will settle for a 1/2 or less of the origional ammount. and every one is happy because the origional ammount was tossed out. That how we have lost so many of our rights !

your desires may be beyond the reaches of the 30 yr old tec. of the ole L-24 or L-28 for that matter. They are great engines and I am amazied at the performance of these little engines . If you want instant HP you might look into a small block chev. Y ou can get some instant off the line responce just by changing the gear ratio of the diff.:sleepy:

:classic: I recently bought a 54 flat top engine with a 79 head milled 30k and was told that it was at 9 to 1 . The mechanic I bought the engine from , this was his personal engine, said that it was about 9.2 to 1 . With out measureing the volume of the head and cylinder at tdc , you cannot be sure. But from what I have found out asking this same question figure about 9 to 1 with 30 off the p-79 is what you will have.:classic: hope this helps

:sick: Rust is the big thing with these cars as was mentioned before, these cars are unibody construction and built out of sheetmetal ! No frame , like you most likely are used to. So when rust is active it will destroy a Z like peranas eating a rabbet . Like the man said check the surch and see what has been said and said and said of this problem. You can sink a thousand dollars in rust repair so fast you cant imagine. the more you describe the car the worse it sounds! sorry.

I worked with a guy that bought a brand new ford and it was burning oil , he took it back to the dealer and complained and complained . The oil consumption was a quart every 2,000 miles. Well he kept asking different people about it and not waiting for the new rings to seat . Finely he asked another " mechanic" about it and he said " o hell the rings are just too hard, just mix about 1/2 cup of kitchen clenser to a qt of gas and slowly pour it down the carb keeping the engine running at about 2000 rpm ". Well it fixed the "hard" rings all right the engine smoked and went to burning 1qt every 600 miles and he ended up pulling the engine. Be careful dumping stuff in the engines that were not ment for that purpose. Good quality oil needs no help if you keep it clean. :classic:

:classic: I am so glad that this was brought up and I hope others will add to the discussion with a few solutions to the resonance problem .:sick:

:classic: I have been using Quaker State in my cars for over 30 years and have never had an engine problem, not a stuck lifter or anything . I use 10w 40 in my Z and every thing is good. I have gone into depth on research on the subject and getting into the different additives and ash content and so on. What I came up with is that Quaker State and GTX were rated the highest . Havaland , not spelled right , and then Valvoline. You will find that if you ask 20 people you will get 15 different openions. The most important thing is to change regularly and dont skimp on the filter and change it at the same time 3k is best. Cheepest insurence you can buy . I dident mention synthetics because I have never used them and see no need to change . I just returned from a 3K mile trip in our Camery and when I checked the oil it shocked me how clean it was , looked like I had just changed it , the engine has over 90,000 miles on it. its that clean. I was supprised to see that Kendal and some of the other more costly ones dident add up either.:classic: my 2 cts for what its wouth.

Thats good info. but what are you running? you dident say ! I am in a quandry myself over this same issue. I plan to install the header and 21/2" piping that I have but I dont want the car to sound like a Honda buzz bomb, I am looking for a deep sound and at crusing speed , 3grand , I want to be able to hold a conversation and not be hollering. I have been looking at the Dynomax also Flowmaster however it seems the latter is louder. I am also leaning to a glass pack behind the header as a resinater if this the way to go. I am looking into a super-trap, but in the past on big V-8s I dont like the funny sound . I have never heard one on a L-series engine. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks Gary:classic:

Hang in there, the rewards are around the corner. When she is running right you will be happyer than a pig in sh$t. One thing that you must considr you are infected by the Z and there is no cure. These kind of things can get to be a bitch but it could be the same way with a honda and when it was cured it still would be a HONDA . Now that is depressing, Hang in.. all the best . I think you have good advise here. Gary:classic:

It's about 1/2 the cost of POR-15 . The thing is it can be applied with a regular paint spray gun , and yes there must be a proper prep , but no different than with any paint . Also it comes in several colors and can be topcoated withe any paint if needed and is not effected by ultra-violet like POR . It is non toxic and not as thick as POR. My question is it any good at rust controll and prevention, or at least how does it compair with POR . At my age I dont even buy green bannanas or engage in long conversations ! So either would do me fine I guess , but having gone through all the trouble of dismanteling the whole car I would like to use a product that does what it says it does. :classic: take a look at zerorust.com autobodystore.com

Really it looks great and when I get old I want one just like it. You know you were going to take alot of flack here I hope . All kidding aside , looks like a fine car , of the 280s I like the stileing the best . Are you going to replace the painted rust covered bumpers with chrome ? I just had to slip that in ! :classic:

Has anyone of us used this product ? If so what is your openion as to is success in stoping rust when applied as the maker says. Here in Ore. the state is using it on bridges and lightstanders even when exposed to the salt air along the coast. I would hope they have tested it first. POR -15 is great but this stuff is alot less money and mainly it is much less trouble to use. I have had it recommended to me to use on the sand blasted and bare metal on my Z, but I just wanted some other input from a user of the product. One thing of this product is that it can be applied just like regular paint , and over surface rust that is free of oil and dirt and loose scale. That is what the dealer says . to a 3 mill thickness ( two coats ) .

:classic: Another factor is the tire width , if you have installed wide tires they could be hydra-plaining. Another factor is the depth of the water you are driving in and at what speed your going. When you have the alignment checked be sure and have it checked at both ends and square not just the front end. The car could be tracking slightly cockied and you dont know it . What does the tire wear look like ? Are the treads cupping or wearing uneavenly ? A good alighment shop will check this. But of course if you just recetly have changed tires or rotated them be sure to tell them. When I mentioned wide tires , when you increase the width of the tread, and if there isn't enough passages for the moisture to escape to the side, and or the weight of the car is not sufficent to stick the tires to the pavement , you will hydra-plane. Especially with a light car like a Z . I hope this helps.:classic:

I have a '73 and there was a splash pan in the back of the car when I bought the car. I tossed it next to the garage. After having driven the car for a few thousand miles , this over several months ,I was going about 85 or so and had a 1/4ing wind of about 10 to 15 mph coming toward the left front. The added wind power started the front end to feel vary light. After some thought after I return home I installed the splash pan and returned to the fry. and dupcated the same situation and there was a remarkable difference and much more stable. I still want to install a air dam but I rearly drive at that speed so it isn't high priorty at this time. Scanlon and I were going to make a mould from mine and make a fiberglass one for his car but his is a '71 and has a different bolt pattern so we dropped the idea for awhile. I dont konw of a source for any . You might try zdatsun dude of intence restoration . Gary:classic:

that's a joke , but that is what they are called. I have used a product called P B blaster to penetrate and is sooooo much better for remove rusted bolts it is truly amaizing. Like Ed said use the largest tool that will fit . BE AWARE THESE TOOLS ARE VARY HARD AND BRIDDLE AND WILL SNAP OFF IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL . Because they are so hard they are harder than a drill and tuff to remove if broken off in the hole so use caution. I recently received a can of KANO that is supposed to be the best in this type of problem . I havent had time to try it yet and I will pass on how it works ,.goos luck with the bolt . Gary

That should not be a problem the excess will just be burned in the engine, remamber it only takes about a tespoon full to fill the unit, if you look closely on the plunger that is attached to the black plastic nut, you will see a line that is the fill line. Gary

I secound the motion. contact them you cannot go wrong with them , they really know their stuff, this is what they do, just SU carbs. They are THE rebuilders for SUs and ship to the UK.:classic:

if you buy carbs from Z therepy they are SUPERIOR than new.:classic:

you ansered your own question the 33 and 36 are the same. here is a vary good web site for this kind of info. geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.htm I doubt that you would be able to feel the difference between the manifold that you are useing now and either the 33 or 36 . On a dino maybe. try the web site there is a ton of information there . Gary:classic:

The kit is for coating the inside , regular por for the outside . This Co. has a whole catalog of POR products . It is VARY important to follow instructions other wise it may not stick like you want. The prep is important. But the result is vary good. Gary:classic: