twsutt

Okay all you forum Nazis, I know that I'm bring up a thread from the dead but it pertains to my question. (And yes, I've searched.) I've recently had to replace my thermostat housing on my '75 280z. I didn't mark which connector goes to the thermotime switch and which goes to the water temp sensor. I've tried the '75 & '76 wiring diagrams, but it's no help because the wires for both years are white/white to the thermotime and white/white to the water temp. One of the sets of wires has a 1 inch wide strip of red tape wrapped around it near the bullet connectors. Can anyone tell me which sensor the marked set of wires should connect to? Thank you,

hogie- thanks for all of your help. I'll try to post my results after I complete the install this weekend.

Got it. I was thinking that the radiator had a nut welded to the top mounting tabs like the OEM radiator. I haven't got my new radiator yet (be here tomorrow), but the picture on the website (GenesisAutoParts.com) shows that the mounting is the same as the OEM radiator. See my confusion. I prefer the clearance that these bushings provide. Is the bolt hole in the radiator support large enough to place that bushing through it?

I second pwd's opinion. Definately go with powder coating. That's the hottest part of the engine bay, right above the exhaust header.

Hogie, I'm still not sure that I understand how you've got this mounted that completely isolates the radiator from the radiator support. Isn't the metal from the bolt still in contact with both the support and the radiator with the rubber bushing sandwiched in between? If that's the case then the radiator will be cushioned from any radiator support flexing, but the radiator is still grounded to to the car through the 8M bolt, right? I'm sorry to be difficult, I'm just trying to find the best/easiest way to mount an aluminum radiator that will prevent any contact that could carry an electrical current, and prevent any unwanted galvanic corrosion that could shorten the radiator's life.

John, Why the rubber mount instead of the high temp silicone like on 4403K73 or 4403K76?

John Coffey, This is a beautiful thing. I can't thank you enough. At 3/4" spacing there should still be room to use the original fan and shroud. I will name my next child after you. Thank you,

"A picture is worth a thousand words."

Okay. Like a smaller version of the suspension bushings. Thanks for all your assistance. I'll be tackling this job this weekend...if the radiator arrives (and in one piece) this Friday like FedEx says it will.

Got it. Thank you. something like this: I thought that it was just a rubber spacer. I was looking at my Z last night and noticed that the four bolts that hold the radiator to the radiator support also hold the a/c condenser on the front side of the support. Do you have a/c in your car and if so will the rubber grommet fit through the support and condenser mounting tab together?

But aren't the sides of the bolt touching metal?

Jay's seeing the same thing that I'm seeing...Brian's post says that the SCCA engine cut-off is '72, but he's got a 280z ('75-'78) that he's planning to get back into SCCA racing.

It looks like you're going to have to change your Avatar now.

hogie, Forgive me for being dense, but I haven't removed my old radiator yet, will the radiator support need to be drilled to fit the shoulder washers through or is the existing hole large enough? I assume that you used these along with the rubber spacer, otherwise the radiator will still be grounded to the frame through the bolt.

I hate you.

Johnny'O, Thanks

I notice that the fender I.D. plate is attached with phillips-head screws...am I wrong in assuming that these were originally attached with rivets?

I've noticed that many of you have stated that an all aluminum radiator needs to be isolated from the radiator support to prevent galvanic corrosion. I've purchased a direct fit aluminum radiator (similar to what MSA sells), and I would like to see how some of you have mounted your radiators so that it's not grounded directly to the radiator support. I've seen mention of plastic sleeves and rubber and I would also be interested in knowing where these can be purchased. Thank you,

Always happy to have another Z owner on the site. What year ZX do you have? I assume it's a ZX due to your comment about the T-tops. Tell us more about your car and your ownership.

My 280 had a terrible wobble when I first got it even after replacing all struts, bushings, checked alignment, ball joints, tie rods etc. The problem was the P.O.'s cheap, crappy tires (Mohawk-a no longer made tire by Discount Tires) that had possibly been sitting for too long and were out of round. Once those were replaced the car drove much smoother.

I've owned a '77 & '75 280z and an '81 280zx...the ZX had a more "luxury" seat that seemed to mounted higher than the more utilitarian seat of the Z. Also the old Z seats were mounted on spacers that could be stacked or removed to make the seat higher or lower. I'm about 5' 11" and I have about 6 inches or more above my head in my current '75 280Z, but I do lean back quite a bit because genetics gifted me with long monkey arms.