Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bloxman

  1. From what I see in the pictures, the ground wire doesn't appear bolted to either of the threaded holes designated for that purpose by the big "E". Picture shows attached to a smaller bolt lower and to the right of that terminal. Not positive it matters. Outside frame of alternator is definitely grounded. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Does anyone have any thoughts on what window visor / Vent shade might fit on a 1975 280Z? I have tried many search combinations in google , amazon, eBay . Nothing comes up other than "sorry we have no specific recommendations for your application at this time". I am lead to beleive that nobody has ever needed to drive their Z in the rain that was either not equipped with A/C or it wasn't working. I'm thinking there must be a car someplace that has acceptably similar window frame shape to facilitate a modification to suit. When it rains here in Grenada , it Really rains . My A/C currently does
  3. 240jetjoc Great ! Whats a sticky? Thanks for the advice I'll give it a search at Hybrids Bloxman
  4. d240zx2 Thanks for your reply, I am hesitant to up the idle as the weber manuals say leave it alone until the mix is right. And as its its my concern that the mix is not right I am going to leave it alone for now. By the way when you say you increased the idled by 250 RPM ; from what RPM to what RPM. say from 800 to 1050 or 950 to 1200? As far as the cam goes I really don't know. I suppose its possible the original cam could have been relaced as the block is a P90 and the Head an E88 I guess I'll have to pop off the valve cover and look for some markings to answer that one. Thanks again fo
  5. Good Evening I would like some input and reasoning on recomendations for Jetting and Venturris for my triple weber DCOE 42's I have bench stripped and rebuilt these carbs using Weber rebuild kits. But what I don't know is if the carbs initial set up is even remotely correct for my application. I bought my 280Z last year in July it also came with a 240 engine with the triples installed and headers. But it was ouside the car as was the efi 2.8. The previous owner had bought the car with the additional engine just like myself. And never installed either. I am concerned the base line is all wron
  6. Wow! Ya, that about sums it up, Wow! Near the end of the video it looks as though you actually drove over the camera .......Gutsy! You made my day. Thanks Lawrence
  7. And MikeW said let there be light! Yes!! Here comes Success!! The key to the whole problem was to reverse the positions of those contacters in the Park / headlight positions. Woohoo you ar!e the man, Seriously Great little article ,you saved my @ss budddy. Now I can pass my yearly Inspection. Right on! bloxman
  8. Well done; great pictures, concise and well thought out. Good Job thanks for the link, I saved the pdf for future refernce. Still no lights though, had enough for today, will try more tommorrow evening. My brain can't take any more of the wiring diagram headache! Might be time for reading glasses . Bloxman out
  9. Update dash lights are brighter than I have ever seen them, but the headlights still don't work! I now have 12 volts between battery ground and the three terminals at the headlights, pass, drive, and ground what gives with that?! I think this may be a ground problem. You would tend to think that the terminal marked ground in the headlight socket would show continuity between itself and any spot on the body and / or the negative batery terminal. NOPE! The saga continues tommorrow Bloxman
  10. you're are absolutely correct! I took it apart once again, and one pair of the contacters operates the park lights and one pair operates the headlights when I held them in place I was able to determine who was what. So I reassembled the switch by screwing the metal body on first then installed the switch "guts" into that and bent the tabs over while applying downward pressure. And checked for continuity again. Funnily enough I dismissed this as the problem as I have a spare combination switch and it behaves the same way...no continuity. Must be why I got it for $10 bucks on Ebay. Think I shou
  11. O.K. so I'm worse off than I was last night. because I have had it apart and can't find the problem!:disappoin Came home early and took down the combination switches. took apart and cleaned the contacts in the rotary switch I can get continuity between the green wire and the green and white wire with the rotary light switch in the park light position and head lights position. I cannot get continuity between any others ie the red , and the white with a red stripe in any position. Am I supposed to? I also took apart the high low switch in the Turn signal unit and it appears to be functioning pr
  12. Are those three replies identical or am I missing something? I spun the switch about three or four times no change. I removed the bottom of the column trim and checked for loose conections. Just for kicks I put the ignition key forward a couple o spots and tried the wipers no problem there , they work but... now my park lights don't work AND there is a blown fuse in the box. :sick: Well its too hot in the garage , the car is up on jackstands I can just barely squeeze past the partially open passenger door to see which fuse is blown. Tommorrow is another day Thanks for your help MIKEW I 'll l
  13. Thanks for your reply MIKEW Yes I did have the combination switch apart for a rebuild last year. I thought I had this behind me. Twist rapidly o.k. I'll try this. Will this confirm or deny anything?- like the contacts are dirty again? Thanks again Bloxman
  14. Give me some thoughts on this little situation. My headlights worked. I swear !I even passed inspection this time last year. When I turn combination switch to first position park lights come on, o.k. so thats good. Twist a notch further the park lights stay on, but no headlights . thats odd! Pull back on turn signal , no brights either. this is not good Fuses looked o.k. replaced them anyway. Still no headlights. removed drivers side light check for power - nothing all three contacts register Zilch! . Fuseable links have continuity to both sides? Hazards work, and the turn signals work HMMM..
  15. Everything I have read says the DCOE's don't like heat. So I must have measured a thousand different things, like carbs to brake lines,and brake booster to rear carb, carbs to top of headers. But..somehow I managed to take the filter off my breather pipe,to do the measuring ;so now I need to cut the breather down and to locate the filter closer to the block. Good Idea / Bad Idea? In addition to my Z, I have a Jensen Healey with a pair of zenith Strombergs, they leak sort of spontaniously, and a surprising volume. I don't know if Webers have any annoying habits that can get ya killed so.. I de
  16. TomoHawk I currently have a six into one collector then onto two glass pacs then an ansa slanted double tip mounted incorrectly. (not I , a previous owner install). Clearance issues? It sounds mighty good . Mind you , I would imagine a pair of three's into two, leading to parallel glass pacs would sound mighty good as well. mine are real ugly though, atleast fifteen years old. I say go for it , it's garanteed to lively up the neighbourhood! Bloxman
  17. Great stuff, glad to hear it all went smoothly. Lewt me know what your ipinion is in regards to brakeing improvement. Night Bloxman
  18. e_racer1999 Good luck, what a great deal! Doesn't sound like you'll need any help as they come pre loaded, I just finnished mine yesterday though so if anything comes up .... I personally recomend a 2 footlong half inch drive power bar , with a half inch drive 17mm socket if those calipers have never been off before. ( I thought I was gonna bust a gut getting those calipers off before I tried that combo). Bloxman
  19. Well it appears I am pretty lucky afterall So all tolled It was $200.00 for the wrong Calipers(S12-W) the first time at the wreckers. $200.00 for the wright Calipers(S12.8) the second time at the wreckers. I could have pressed for an exchange , but ..it was a couple months before I realized I had the wrong calipers. Maybe I might want to do the S12-W upgrade with vented discs later but I doubt it. Pads $108.00 Caliper rebuild Kit $94.00 So that's $602.00, sounds hot right? Well When I convert to U.S. (cause that was Eastern Caribbean Dollars I was quoting) it comes to U.S. $225.47 oh ya and
  20. Lucky is not even the right word. Got the last S12.8 Caliper rebuild kit by a total fluke. The parts guy actually brought me a S12.8 kit in a S12-W box, I was so impressed with the kit (inner seals/wipers, outer seals, split clips, bleeder cover, and grease that I asked for another to keep as a spare. When he brought the next one the seals were huge,and no clips probably the S12W kit or maybe even something else . The Fella spent like a half hour trying to figure what box my kit came from and eventually found it somewhere, lot more bread than the wrong kit of course!! I had decided I'd be
  21. Thanks Enigma for your reply, Sorry for the delay in my responce. That old work thing has been getting between me and my Z! The two clip thing wasn't really part of a grand plan or anything, just sorta worked out that way. The Cardone hardware kit came with 2 pad clips and 2 pin clips , thought I'd use the one extra clip I had from a pair of S12W calipers I have lying around. Therefore if I have one caliper with two and one caliper with one. I am garanteed in this snstance to be at least 100% correct 50% of the time. Thanks for the Input Blox
  22. So both my front springs have two white paint stripes and one pink stripe? Anybody know of any signifigance? They appear to have ten coils, they both have Nisan paper part tags. Though I cannot really read them where they are situated. If I get my head that far up in the wheel well to a position where I am at the angle neccesary to see the script everything gets blurry. I suspect this may also happen to other members who own 33 + year old cars. Warning ; Tommorrow is mothers Day Blox out
  23. Simply amazing what a little hard work and a new can of paint can do. Wow , I am actually looking forward to a saturday trek to the Auto Parts Store, for a new set of brake pads. The S12-W pads are far to large to fit the S12.8 Rotors. Hardware seems to swap no problem though. Check it out .
  24. Well they are not looking to bad after a first pass of the wire brush , a good degreasing (can you get purple blaster degreaser in America?) , and a pass with the garden hose. (see pic #149). As you can see, we are quite innovative in D islands . If we lose any brake hardware we can usually fabricate something up from scraps found around any construction site!! Check brake pad pin replaced with nail in (pic# 150) & (pic # 151) I can't leave out the ample use of tie wire to replace the original wire clips (pic # 152). Oh well, I'm way better off than I was last weekend. I'll keep ya poste
  25. Give me a shout if you run into problems I justy did my back brakes last weekend , so my Memory is reasonably fresh on the whole deal. What year is your Z? Blox Workin on my front brakes until she wakes up onMothers day then it all over whether I'm done or not !
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.