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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/18/2016 in Posts
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3 pointsPart 2 of picture mania! Alright, pictures below are where I left off recently last weekend. Sandblasted some parts that go to the interior for the seat belt mechanism and other random parts. Finally got the floors permanently welded in. The reason the floors look so nasty is because I sprayed it with POR15 Degreaser and Prep and Ready. This also helps it from rusting prematurely before I actually paint it. Currently working on getting the seat brackets and the parts I sandblasted prepped for installation. STAY TUNED!
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Saw this ad and did a few double-takes when reading through it. Kind of funny. Sorry if you're a member here. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5808738675.html '77 Datsun 280Z with Track Car Potential, Needs Motor, New Exhaust Sy - $7000 (Portland) This Z is a head turner, and is perfect to be built into a fun track car (for open track day, not racing). It needs a new motor due to a connecting rod coming loose. The car has a 3-speed automatic transmission but, again, ripe to be rebuilt for the track. Despite the current motor issue, this car is otherwise in great condition:gold with black racing stripevirtually rust-free 109,547 mphnew exhaust system (see below)tight handling and suspensiondent free bodyseats in very good conditiongood brightwork and glassworking CD player and custom speakers, digital audio inputheat works, A/C does notglass/door sealing done recently to prevent foggingDatsun Type HLS30VIN: HLS30366369Engine details: L28, a 2,753 cc (2.8 L; 168.0 cu in) 12-valve engine. Bore is 86.0 mm and stroke is 79 mm. The basic L28 is carburetted. Chassis No. HLS30 -- 366369Max. HP/RPM: 170 HP/560 OR PM (SAE)The entire exhaust system was overhauled in 2014 by a Z car master, Vinny Bedini of Bob Sharp Racing in Connecticut. (Vinny is mentioned on this forum http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/294382-bob-sharp-33-wheels.html and there's more info on Bob Sharp Racing here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Sharp_(racing_driver).) Vinny also replaced the wheels allowing for slightly larger than the original tire size. So the wheels, tires and exhaust system are all new and built by a Z master.1 point
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That first spring looks more like a thread insert from the side view.1 point
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It really depends on your plans, your skills, and the local market. I'd pay more than many people would for a car with no drive train because I have extra parts and I feel comfortable doing that kind of work. Others on the forum are more comfortable/skilled at body work, or electrical, or interior. Some have local shops that they know of that can do certain work for a good price. Best to put a plan together and a list of resources, with costs. The car, like that one, is just one small part of a project. Most of use have spent more money on parts and labor than on the original car.1 point
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Just make sure that you use fuel-rated hose and mount it so that it won't chafe on a sharp edge. The CZCC members have too much invested in this car to lose it now .1 point
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I was able to fashion a period-looking driver's suit using some coveralls, and some iron-on transfers and patches. Then I fire-proofed it using the borax method. Most people thought it was done well and fit in with the vintage racers we had at an event I attended in August. I was interested in something that was more form-fitting, even though driving suits aren't supposed to be glamorous. A Jogging suit would suffice, but they are usually of a synthetic material, not cotton or wool, but I will keep looking at the Salvation Army store just in case.
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